Which foam insulation under mattress?

flinchlock

flinchlock

Senior Member
Joined
Jul 17, 2007
Messages
425
Location
Kalamazoo, MI
I am going to add 3/4" foam board under the stock factory mattress to help with condensation.

I am looking at two different products from my local lumber yard.

---
http://www.menards.com/main/building-materials/insulation/panels/r4-3-4-x-4-x-8-foamular-250-rigid-foam-insulation/p-1384819-c-5779.htm

FOAMULAR® 250 Extruded Polystyrene Insulation
http://foamular.com/foam/products/foamular-250.aspx
http://foamular.com/assets/0/144/172/174/11b5f50a-0f80-4f08-bebe-71f4b6a9fdf7.pdf

3/4" = R4, compressive strength of 25 psi
---

OR

---
http://www.menards.com/main/building-materials/insulation/panels/3-4-foil-faced-insulation/p-1356988-c-5779.htm

AP™ Foil-Faced Polyiso Foam Sheathing
http://www.specjm.com/products/foamboards2/APFoil-FacedPolyisocyanurateFoamSheathing.asp
http://www.specjm.com/files/pdf/AP-Foil-Faced-Polyisocyanurate-Foam-Sheathing-Roofing-Data-Sheet.pdf

3/4" = R4.9, ASTM D1621 Compressive Strength, 16 psi and 20 psi ?????
---

Of course I want a high R value, but I am also concerned with years of crawling in and out of bed and how our knees will crush the foam board. (Me 170#, her 135#)

I can not find anything (I can understand) about 16 psi vs. 20 psi vs. 25 psi compressive strength.

Mike

P.S. Yes, I can easily still close the camper top.
 
The foil faced foam board has always seemed superior to me for insulation/reflective properties. If you put a thin piece of tempered masonite board over the foam (maybe 1/4"), should do the trick for spreading "point loads"... ;)
 
Consider talking to the Froli System tech about condensation. 803-966-2760 They seem to know of the problem and mention ventilation helps. I just installed their spring system for comfort and know nothing about condensation so I can't say if there springs have any effect.
 
I can not find anything (I can understand) about 16 psi vs. 20 psi vs. 25 psi compressive strength.


25psi is 156% greater than 16 and 125% greater than 20. What's the issue you're trying to understand?

In general all of them are going to dent if you kneel directly on them somewhat. I'm using 60psi foam in my build and would leave small knee marks if I didn't put a piece a cardboard or such down when kneeling on the stuff prior to fiberglassing.


In general if you're actually wanting foam under the bed (don't think that's really the right call though) you may want to consider a high density camping type pad that will take being kneeled on, insulate some and cushion some: http://www.thefoamfactory.com/mattress/campingpads.html
 
those foam boards will not work. you need air movement. that froli sytem or similar style is the answer. down a couple post here i found two items that work like that froli. talk to a couple of boat owners with the raised slat idea, problem solved. even said it added comfort to the bed.
 
griz said:
those foam boards will not work. you need air movement.
Click to expand...
Gee, I forgot about this post. :unsure:

This past fall we spent 3 nights in central Indiana in the Hoosier National Forest http://www.fs.usda.gov/hoosier. The night time temperature was in the low 40s. The 3/4" R4 foam board + 1/4" tempered masonite board was about .01% help. :(

Mike
 
RC Pilot Jim said:
Does adding a 3/4" thick board prevent the top from closing?
Click to expand...
From my 1st post in this thread, "Yes, I can easily still close the camper top."

I had to adjust the turbuckles a little, but it still closed just fine.

Mike

P.S. I removed the foam board and FRP panel... about zero help for us.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads - WTW

V
2018 Sprinter 4x4
2
billharr
billharr
RC Pilot Jim
((Eagle/Fleet)) - Shell Amateur Build
11 12 13
ski3pin
ski3pin

New posts - WTW

Back
Top Bottom