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Rotor and brakes question


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#1 klahanie

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Posted 16 April 2018 - 10:17 PM

Looks like I missed this during my annual spring brake R and R

 

miJXdUU.jpg

 

Rear wheel, first cm of inner rotor surface is damaged (is below smooth surface plane, prob rusted and broke off). Pad doesn't look too bad, about 40-50% worn. Rear rotors are orig IIRC (7+yrs, 120K miles)

 

With my previous "ensure the brakes are 100%" pronouncement in mind what would be the best practice here: replace rotor, new pads, both for both rear wheels ?

 

Thanks for any help.

 

~David


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~David.  2010 F350 C&C w camper deck. 1997 Granby, orig owners.


#2 kmcintyre

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Posted 16 April 2018 - 11:45 PM

Given the pads don't rub/stop against the disc on that area you were probably ok but, I'd replace the pads and the rotors.  If you are that far into it, they aren't that expensive.


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#3 Vic Harder

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Posted 16 April 2018 - 11:48 PM

ditto.  Any idea what caused the damage?  Nothing embedded in the pad?  The alternative is turning the rotors and getting new pads.  Usually almost the same cost as new rotors.  Remember to lube the caliper pins!


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#4 ntsqd

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Posted 17 April 2018 - 12:56 AM

That looks like enough to throw off the balance. I'd replace all of the wear parts.


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Thom

Where does that road go?

#5 moveinon

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Posted 17 April 2018 - 01:07 AM

I would replace with slotted rotors and good quality pads.


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#6 klahanie

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Posted 17 April 2018 - 01:47 AM

Yeah, figured on replacement. Guess I was hoping to have been done with brakes this year...

 

Vic, dunno. Maybe a rock in there + 8 yrs of rust ? I'll take a better look when it is off (fully expect it to be a bear, LOL)

 

Are you guys saying replace both rear rotors and pads as a match or just the damaged side ?

 

Thanks


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~David.  2010 F350 C&C w camper deck. 1997 Granby, orig owners.


#7 Vic Harder

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Posted 17 April 2018 - 03:33 AM

BOTH sides... never just one!  I'm cringing at the thought of one tire locking up, or the ABS kicking in on one side and preventing braking altogether!


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2002 GMC Sierra 2500HD 8.1 Alison - SOLD

2006 Chev Silverado 3500 ext cab long bed LBZ

2005 Hawk Shell built the way I like it - for sale!

https://www.kijiji.c...adId=1430269757

2012 ATC Puma (Grandby) shell - patiently awaiting a full build in my garage


#8 Advmoto18

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Posted 17 April 2018 - 11:27 AM

Replace all the braking system parts.  Does not appear to be enough material remaining on the rotors to even consider having them turned.  Plus the rotors appear to be deformed, so best to replace them.

 

Slotted rotors are cool in both appearance and cooling.  Pun intended.  Yet, slotted rotors are more appropriate when you're trying to reduce weight or enhance the cooling aspect of the rotor due to heavy braking like racing.  Not really necessary on trucks carrying campers.  Further, slotted rotors will not last nearly as long as solid rotors.

 

While not a necessity,  rotors should be turned (when they are in good condition) every time you install new brake pads.  Not doing so, greatly reduces the life span of new pads.  Pads and rotors should be mated to respective surfaces.  Be sure to adhere to manufacturer break-in for new pads.  Getting them too hot during break-in hardens the compounds and reduces braking effectiveness.  Especially for ceramic or organic brake pads.

 

While you're at it, replace the parking brake cable spring and lube the cable (if possible) with dry graphite.  Looks like that spring is on its last bit of service life.

 

From the looks of the corrosion, you must live in or drive on salted roads quite a bit in winter.  If so, I would start thinking about having the axle bearing and seals inspected, if not replaced.  You don't want to be out in the boonies and have a axle bearing fail.  

 

I'm big on preventive maintenance.  I'd much rather perform such in my garage then reactive maintenance trail side.


Edited by Advmoto18, 17 April 2018 - 11:29 AM.

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#9 ntsqd

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Posted 17 April 2018 - 12:31 PM

I disagree, I never, ever turn rotors. Doing so reduces their life and worse, reduces their mass and dimension. That lost mass and dimension is important to their proper function.

 

If slotted, turning them will result in chatter from the interrupted cut, and the turn-er won't be happy about what turning them does to his/her cutting insert.

 

If new pads w/o new rotors I use a body shop long board w/ 60-80 grit to rough up the faces of the rotor. You just need to break up the surface of the previous pad's Transfer Layer, no need to scour them within an inch of their life. A broken-up and slightly rough surface will allow the new pad to transfer its own layer to the rotor.


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Thom

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#10 klahanie

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Posted 17 April 2018 - 04:13 PM

Really appreciate the prompt replies and advice offered. Would prob have let it go if was off season but now feel better about complete replace both sides. Waiting on parts now ..


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~David.  2010 F350 C&C w camper deck. 1997 Granby, orig owners.





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