28 replies to this topic

[smlobx]

.....

If we wanted to stay in campgrounds or listen to generators, we would have bought a 40' triple slide-out ultimate behemoth with, the fake gas fireplace and marble floors.

YUCK!

That made me laugh out loud!
Well said.

Edited by smlobx, 06 February 2019 - 11:24 AM.

[ntsqd]

Friend's dad used Camp Host at Camp Edison in Shaver Lake, CA. Their 5th'er had the fake fireplace. His dad thought it was a hoot! "Are you cold?" (grabs the remote..... ) "Here let me start a fire!" His humor tended to the sly side.....

 

I suggest good monitoring before anything else. Know what your use is, then you can plan the changes, if any, accordingly.

Not that I did it that way....

[jclifb]

Interesting idea: Charge camper battery while driving by using the truck's RV style trailer plug wiring. That's basically what people are doing when they tow an RV trailer, but there are several things to keep in mind. 

 

First, what's your source of power? You need a plug receptacle on your truck with a 12V charging circuit. One of the pins in a 7-pin receptacle provides this constant power but a 4-way doesn't (it only has brakes, turn signals and ground).

 

Next, check to see if the 12V charging circuit is on any time the truck ignition is on but off any time the truck ignition is off. If the charging circuit is still on when the truck ignition is off, you'll just run your truck battery down unless, of course, you add an isolator to the circuit.

 

Finally, remember that you'll be charging your camper battery through a very long set of wires that run all the way from your truck battery to the rear and then forward again to your camper battery. There will be a voltage drop that will not let your camper battery be charged anywhere near all the way.

 

Here's my situation: 2011 F-250 with 5th-wheel package including a bed-mounted 7-pin receptacle. I tested with my voltmeter and confirmed that the 12V pin on the receptacle goes dead when the ignition is off - no isolator needed. I bought a 7-pin plug and connected up the power and ground for the camper. I also connected the camper running lights to the tail/running lights pin on the plug. 

 

This works great for my needs but, honestly, I think my roof-mounted solar panel does a better job of charging the camper battery, even while driving. During daytime, of course.

 

It sounds like BBZ has a portable solar system that's not deployed while driving. So a connection to the truck's charging system is easy to try, assuming you have a 7-pin receptacle already. Even if it keeps the camper battery at 70%, that's something.

 

Good luck

 

Any insight on wiring a 7-pin male to the FWC wiring?

[Wandering Sagebrush]

Any insight on wiring a 7-pin male to the FWC wiring?

It’s pretty easy.  I’ve don’t that with my ATC.  I also have a hard side camper, and an additional 7 pin in the driver side FWD bed wall.  If memory serves, you will have 3 wires from your FWC, 12VDC, ground, and clearance lights.  The 12VDC on my truck is only on when the engine is running, so there is minimal risk of the camper draining the truck batteries.

 

If you want to do a similar setup, there may be RV harnesses pre wired.  You might talk to a RV dealer about purchase and/or instal.  You will have to remove the trolling motor connector (leave a bit of wire if you want to reuse) and connect the 7 pin.  Professor Google will give you the 7 pin wiring info.

[jclifb]

It’s pretty easy.  I’ve don’t that with my ATC.  I also have a hard side camper, and an additional 7 pin in the driver side FWD bed wall.  If memory serves, you will have 3 wires from your FWC, 12VDC, ground, and clearance lights.  The 12VDC on my truck is only on when the engine is running, so there is minimal risk of the camper draining the truck batteries.

 

If you want to do a similar setup, there may be RV harnesses pre wired.  You might talk to a RV dealer about purchase and/or instal.  You will have to remove the trolling motor connector (leave a bit of wire if you want to reuse) and connect the 7 pin.  Professor Google will give you the 7 pin wiring info.

 

Indeed! My research has led me to understand this will work just fine. I am just having issue finding the wiring diagram for my application's (2012 F-250) 7-pin connector.

[pvstoy]

a test light and volt meter is your friend.

[Wandering Sagebrush]

From eTrailer, and do get a good digital multimeter if you don’t have one

 

“Expert Reply:

I looked up the trailer connector wiring diagram for a 2007 Ford F-250 which should be the same as a Ford F-350 and found the 7-way trailer connector to contain the following wires: 

Orange = 12 Volt Power 
White = Ground
Black/Green = Reverse 
Blue = Brake Output 
Yellow = Left Turn/Brake
Green = Right Turn/Brake
Brown = Running Lights 

For a new 7-way trailer connector, I recommend using the Pollak Black Plastic, 7-Pole, RV Blade-Style Trailer Socket part # PK12-707E because all you need to do is strip the jacket off the ends of the above wires and then insert them into the back terminals on this connector.”

[jclifb]

 

From eTrailer, and do get a good digital multimeter if you don’t have one

 

“Expert Reply:

I looked up the trailer connector wiring diagram for a 2007 Ford F-250 which should be the same as a Ford F-350 and found the 7-way trailer connector to contain the following wires: 

Orange = 12 Volt Power 
White = Ground
Black/Green = Reverse 
Blue = Brake Output 
Yellow = Left Turn/Brake
Green = Right Turn/Brake
Brown = Running Lights 

For a new 7-way trailer connector, I recommend using the Pollak Black Plastic, 7-Pole, RV Blade-Style Trailer Socket part # PK12-707E because all you need to do is strip the jacket off the ends of the above wires and then insert them into the back terminals on this connector.”

 

 

Saved! Thank you! I may try to rewire the large light on the rear of the camper to a brake light on the truck to act as a third brake light as well.

[Wandering Sagebrush]

Saved! Thank you! I may try to rewire the large light on the rear of the camper to a brake light on the truck to act as a third brake light as well.

That diagram should be taken as a general guide, I recommend you put the meter on it to be certain.