16 replies to this topic

[PackRat]

I'd still want to check the lower door frame for splaying at the top. This will cause binding in the sliders. If you lubed the sliders and it seemed to go up/down better that's helpful, but again...when you close the lower door, do you see the same amount of the "frame" to the left of the door flashing at the top as at the bottom? This is the way you know if the rear bottom sections have splayed and need some shimming to resolve that and get the door aligned perfectly. When the door is aligned, the sliders are aligned and, after some lube, will move much more in sync with the front sliders you lubed.

[Nailhead]

I'd still want to check the lower door frame for splaying at the top. This will cause binding in the sliders. If you lubed the sliders and it seemed to go up/down better that's helpful, but again...when you close the lower door, do you see the same amount of the "frame" to the left of the door flashing at the top as at the bottom? This is the way you know if the rear bottom sections have splayed and need some shimming to resolve that and get the door aligned perfectly. When the door is aligned, the sliders are aligned and, after some lube, will move much more in sync with the front sliders you lubed.

 

Until we get it on the IH, everywhere it sits is temporary, so I don't see much point in messing with it until then.  I am starting to see some need for the flattest surface possible for one of these campers to sit on,  one that stays flat & doesn't flex much.  

 

If anything, the bottom door opening is the reverse of splayed: the door was a tight fit when we closed it. 

[Wandering Sagebrush]

IH -> Corn Binder?

[Wooddog]

Nailhead,

 

You are correct that Alaskans need a flat surface to sit on.  The bed on my F-250 sags across the back causing the door to bind if it is not shimmed under each side of the door. 

 

A quick note on hydraulics: Alaskan C/O models are unbalanced by design; there is more weight on the front cylinders than the rear. If you push up on the low side you are creating a vacuum on those cylinders. It can be easier to suck air into the cylinder than to pull hydraulic fluid into it from the rest of the system. Hydraulics work better when you increase the pressure by pushing fluid from the high side to the low side. I have a nylon strap bolted to either side of the top of the door I hang from with one hand while raising or lowering my roof. I can hold it quite level this way but I will admit there is always a little anxiety when it's time to lower the roof.

 

Bruce

[Nailhead]

IH -> Corn Binder?

 

Yessir, a '72 1310 4x4 dually.  

[Nailhead]

Nailhead,

 

You are correct that Alaskans need a flat surface to sit on.  The bed on my F-250 sags across the back causing the door to bind if it is not shimmed under each side of the door. 

 

A quick note on hydraulics: Alaskan C/O models are unbalanced by design; there is more weight on the front cylinders than the rear. If you push up on the low side you are creating a vacuum on those cylinders. It can be easier to suck air into the cylinder than to pull hydraulic fluid into it from the rest of the system. Hydraulics work better when you increase the pressure by pushing fluid from the high side to the low side. I have a nylon strap bolted to either side of the top of the door I hang from with one hand while raising or lowering my roof. I can hold it quite level this way but I will admit there is always a little anxiety when it's time to lower the roof.

 

Bruce

 

 

Interesting.  Thank you Bruce.

[PackRat]

First thing to do is to inspect the steel "L" bracket running across the rear of the lower section beneath the door. You will notice it is cut lower where the door is located. Look for CRACKS in the corners as that is a significant clue to splay. Pinching at the top of the bottom door where it locks into the lower section indicates the opposite and might be due to some soft wood allowing that to occur.

 

If an Alaskan is resting on the floor of your truck, it will possibly show some splay at the rear on the door at the TOP of the bottom section. Using some shims inserted from each side corner with the camper elevated and then set down a few times to get the distance you need to push those shims in will alleviate that.

 

However if the bottom section is resting on the bed rails or some jacks and pressure is applied there, then the splay becomes a pinching of the door itself in the door jamb at the top.