I've used both maxair seems sturdier and more efficient as well drops right in same space hardest part is the caulk cleaning that off prior to putting in max air. My biggest mistake is picking a hot day to do the project and cooking out there in the process of the install. On the exterior part of the project I placed a dog blanket down and then plywood to displace the weight. Hoopy
Fantastic Fan opens itself and destroys itself: Easy to Remove and Replace with MaxxAir?
#31
Posted 07 November 2021 - 03:43 PM
#32
Posted 07 November 2021 - 05:07 PM
I replaced my Fantastic fans front and rear with MaxAir fan units. On the MaxAir the hand crank you push up on it and that locks the hand crank from rotating. As far as I know the Fantastic lacks that feature thus allowing the crank to turn and vacuum (negative pressure) to open the lid.
Patrick
2015 FWC Hawk Flatbed
#33
Posted 08 November 2021 - 02:42 PM
I replaced my Fantastic fans front and rear with MaxAir fan units. On the MaxAir the hand crank you push up on it and that locks the hand crank from rotating. As far as I know the Fantastic lacks that feature thus allowing the crank to turn and vacuum (negative pressure) to open the lid.
Even with that handle locked, the air moving across mine still lifted and broke the mechanism. The air dam fixed that.
#34
Posted 08 November 2021 - 03:21 PM
I replaced my Fantastic fans front and rear with MaxAir fan units. On the MaxAir the hand crank you push up on it and that locks the hand crank from rotating. As far as I know the Fantastic lacks that feature thus allowing the crank to turn and vacuum (negative pressure) to open the lid.
Even with that handle locked, the air moving across mine still lifted and broke the mechanism. The air dam fixed that.
Interesting... must have had a constant vibration that allowed the MaxxAir knob to drop out of lock position.
.
Patrick
2015 FWC Hawk Flatbed
#35
Posted 08 November 2021 - 05:06 PM
If it is just a matter of disrupting the air flow across the top of the vent what about gluing a stiff or flexible piece of rubber to the leading edge of the vent top to kill the speed of the air across the vent top and therefore any negative pressure/left on the lid.
If air stream created vibration is an issue, then this might also help.
Lastly as mentioned by some, I have 1.5 inches of clearance above my Hawk getting into my shop; while I do not need the rubber air dam mentioned above, even if it did contact the top of the entrance frame it would bend and not break.
Hey, just a couple of thoughts and still have not seen photos of mechanisms described as weak links causing the vents to open, nor if this is predominately an issue on frame rather than truck bed mounted FWCs. How many FWCs has this actually happened to?
Edited by Wallowa, 08 November 2021 - 05:08 PM.
#36
Posted 08 November 2021 - 06:40 PM
I don’t have pictures, but can describe. In the first episode, the teeth on the control arm were stripped by, apparently, the chattering motion against the gear. I replaced the control arm. On the second, the plastic tab connecting the control arm to the vent lid snapped. I replaced the vent lid. As noted, i switched from flat lid to domed lid and have not had an issue in 8000 miles. Perhaps the change in shape was enough?
#37
Posted 08 November 2021 - 07:49 PM
I don’t have pictures, but can describe. In the first episode, the teeth on the control arm were stripped by, apparently, the chattering motion against the gear. I replaced the control arm. On the second, the plastic tab connecting the control arm to the vent lid snapped. I replaced the vent lid. As noted, i switched from flat lid to domed lid and have not had an issue in 8000 miles. Perhaps the change in shape was enough?
Experiential knowledge is always best...flat lid = problem ; curved lid = no problem; issue solved...again I believe Dirt Road Savant's Hawk is on a frame mount....
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