Funky readings from the monitor panel
#1
Posted 09 March 2010 - 12:04 AM
http://www.wanderthe...70/page__st__30
How many of you get a funky reading from the monitor panel (water level and battery condition) due to the fact we are standing up, looking down on the panel....and it appears that a certain LED is lit, when in fact it is not but the one below it is shinning through the hole?
We have to bend over and get our head level with the panel to see what LED's are really lit up.
For example, your water is only 2/3 full, but the 2/3 LED is shinning through the top "F" window and we think the water is full.
Well, I came up with an idea...using felt, or in my case the fuzzy side of velcro (don't know if it's the VEL or the CRO) for dividers between the rows of LED lights, so now the window is only illuminated with the proper LED.
I don't know if I'm making sense so I'll enclose some pictures.
The first photo was taken from the top view (standing up) when the truck is plugged into shore power....and the water tank is 2/3 full. Notice how the FULL light on the water monitor stays blacked out...without any false reading from the 2/3 LED below it....even though the picture was taken from above....not level with the monitor panel.
The second picture is with the truck unplugged from shore power....note how the "CHARGE" light is now out, and totally blacked out...not showing a false green glow from the LED below.
I've included pictures showing the cut velcro strips and their placement on the circuit board.
Hope this makes sense. If not.....never mind.
2010 Ford F250 4X4; 6.4 Powerstroke Diesel; Warn 16.5 winch; Airlift Springs; Transfer Flow 47 gal. fuel tank, BDS 4" lift kit, BDS dual steering stabilizer with upgraded Fox 2.0 shocks, Toyo 35X12.50X18 Open Country M/T tires, Pro Comp wheels; 2008 FWC Hawk Camper; 2000 Toyota Tundra.
#2
Posted 09 March 2010 - 12:15 AM
2022 F350 7.3L; family trailer at the moment and some aluminum stuck together to eventually form another truck camper
#3
Posted 09 March 2010 - 05:43 PM
14v while on shore power?
do you have the smart charger add-on?
#4
Posted 09 March 2010 - 06:04 PM
good idea, i am commencing work...
14v while on shore power?
do you have the smart charger add-on?
Yes, I have the smart charger add-on (about $25)....the IOTA IQ4. I plugged it in and zip tied it to the wiring under the front lower furnace grill....that way I can see the LED light through the grill. The manual has the explanation of what the flashing LED means. It's kind of neat knowing what phase your smart charger is in. It also explains the different charging phases and how much voltage and time are in each.
I started a thread about the IQ4 charger a while ago: http://www.wanderthe...hp?/topic/2884/
2010 Ford F250 4X4; 6.4 Powerstroke Diesel; Warn 16.5 winch; Airlift Springs; Transfer Flow 47 gal. fuel tank, BDS 4" lift kit, BDS dual steering stabilizer with upgraded Fox 2.0 shocks, Toyo 35X12.50X18 Open Country M/T tires, Pro Comp wheels; 2008 FWC Hawk Camper; 2000 Toyota Tundra.
#5
Posted 09 March 2010 - 10:54 PM
14v would be too high for a sustained period of time.
#6
Posted 10 March 2010 - 05:52 PM
good idea, i am commencing work...
By "commencing work" do you mean you are installing the voltmeter?
If so, note that the original model suggested had a maximum voltage of 24VDC. A member on this forum had the voltmeter wired to the pump switch, rather than the momentary switch and fried the meter. I found that the exact same meter comes in a version that has a maximum voltage of 40VDC....it might prove more robust with less chance of burning out with a voltage spike. Just let me know if you need more information. The two meters look identical......and cost the same.....with the only difference being maxium voltage
2010 Ford F250 4X4; 6.4 Powerstroke Diesel; Warn 16.5 winch; Airlift Springs; Transfer Flow 47 gal. fuel tank, BDS 4" lift kit, BDS dual steering stabilizer with upgraded Fox 2.0 shocks, Toyo 35X12.50X18 Open Country M/T tires, Pro Comp wheels; 2008 FWC Hawk Camper; 2000 Toyota Tundra.
#7
Posted 10 March 2010 - 06:01 PM
By "commencing work" do you mean you are installing the voltmeter?
If so, note that the original model suggested had a maximum voltage of 24VDC. A member on this forum had the voltmeter wired to the pump switch, rather than the momentary switch and fried the meter. I found that the exact same meter comes in a version that has a maximum voltage of 40VDC....it might prove more robust with less chance of burning out with a voltage spike. Just let me know if you need more information. The two meters look identical......and cost the same.....with the only difference being maxium voltage
That would be me. I don't know off hand if the voltage difference matters (can't hurt though if they are cost comparable), but having it on the momentary switch as opposed to the pump switch so you can make sure stuff isn't running when you turn it on is helpful in protecting it. I had it on the pump so I could leave it on more often while camping to look at the battery levels for personal curiosity. Opps.
2022 F350 7.3L; family trailer at the moment and some aluminum stuck together to eventually form another truck camper
#8
Posted 10 March 2010 - 11:06 PM
That would be me. I don't know off hand if the voltage difference matters (can't hurt though if they are cost comparable), but having it on the momentary switch as opposed to the pump switch so you can make sure stuff isn't running when you turn it on is helpful in protecting it. I had it on the pump so I could leave it on more often while camping to look at the battery levels for personal curiosity. Opps.
Hi pods8,
Couldn't remember who it was....must be getting old.
The cost of the two meters is identical (at least from the site where I purchased mine...they had them both) so I don't see a down side.
I attached the two leads of the meter to the circuit board with simple spade connectors so they can be plugged and unplugged at will.
I was thinking of also just running dedicated wires to the battery (like you did later) and have the meter on all the time. It draws such a small amount of current I don't think it would hurt anything. Either way would probably work just fine.
2010 Ford F250 4X4; 6.4 Powerstroke Diesel; Warn 16.5 winch; Airlift Springs; Transfer Flow 47 gal. fuel tank, BDS 4" lift kit, BDS dual steering stabilizer with upgraded Fox 2.0 shocks, Toyo 35X12.50X18 Open Country M/T tires, Pro Comp wheels; 2008 FWC Hawk Camper; 2000 Toyota Tundra.
#9
Posted 29 September 2013 - 01:59 AM
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