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Funky readings from the monitor panel


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#1 leadsled9

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Posted 09 March 2010 - 12:04 AM

I did the volt meter installation that b team suggested, it turned out great:
http://www.wanderthe...70/page__st__30


How many of you get a funky reading from the monitor panel (water level and battery condition) due to the fact we are standing up, looking down on the panel....and it appears that a certain LED is lit, when in fact it is not but the one below it is shinning through the hole?

We have to bend over and get our head level with the panel to see what LED's are really lit up.

For example, your water is only 2/3 full, but the 2/3 LED is shinning through the top "F" window and we think the water is full.

Well, I came up with an idea...using felt, or in my case the fuzzy side of velcro (don't know if it's the VEL or the CRO) for dividers between the rows of LED lights, so now the window is only illuminated with the proper LED.

I don't know if I'm making sense so I'll enclose some pictures.

The first photo was taken from the top view (standing up) when the truck is plugged into shore power....and the water tank is 2/3 full. Notice how the FULL light on the water monitor stays blacked out...without any false reading from the 2/3 LED below it....even though the picture was taken from above....not level with the monitor panel.

The second picture is with the truck unplugged from shore power....note how the "CHARGE" light is now out, and totally blacked out...not showing a false green glow from the LED below.

I've included pictures showing the cut velcro strips and their placement on the circuit board.

Hope this makes sense. If not.....never mind.

Attached Thumbnails

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  • DSC_03690001_panel2.JPG
  • DSC_03530001_velcro_strips.JPG
  • DSC_03550001_all_dividers_in_place.JPG
  • DSC_03500001_top_divider.JPG

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2010 Ford F250 4X4; 6.4 Powerstroke Diesel; Warn 16.5 winch; Airlift Springs; Transfer Flow 47 gal. fuel tank, BDS 4" lift kit, BDS dual steering stabilizer with upgraded Fox 2.0 shocks, Toyo 35X12.50X18 Open Country M/T tires, Pro Comp wheels;  2008 FWC Hawk Camper;  2000 Toyota Tundra.


#2 pods8

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Posted 09 March 2010 - 12:15 AM

Good idea on the felt, I understood what you meant.
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2022 F350 7.3L; family trailer at the moment and some aluminum stuck together to eventually form another truck camper


#3 HERR42

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Posted 09 March 2010 - 05:43 PM

good idea, i am commencing work...

14v while on shore power?

do you have the smart charger add-on?
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Jeff Herr WW6L '07 Hawk & '00 F250 SuperDuty CrewCab, Warn 12K, BFG AT KO 'E' rated, TransferFlow 48Gal tank

#4 leadsled9

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Posted 09 March 2010 - 06:04 PM

good idea, i am commencing work...

14v while on shore power?

do you have the smart charger add-on?


Yes, I have the smart charger add-on (about $25)....the IOTA IQ4. I plugged it in and zip tied it to the wiring under the front lower furnace grill....that way I can see the LED light through the grill. The manual has the explanation of what the flashing LED means. It's kind of neat knowing what phase your smart charger is in. It also explains the different charging phases and how much voltage and time are in each.

I started a thread about the IQ4 charger a while ago: http://www.wanderthe...hp?/topic/2884/

Attached Thumbnails

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2010 Ford F250 4X4; 6.4 Powerstroke Diesel; Warn 16.5 winch; Airlift Springs; Transfer Flow 47 gal. fuel tank, BDS 4" lift kit, BDS dual steering stabilizer with upgraded Fox 2.0 shocks, Toyo 35X12.50X18 Open Country M/T tires, Pro Comp wheels;  2008 FWC Hawk Camper;  2000 Toyota Tundra.


#5 HERR42

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Posted 09 March 2010 - 10:54 PM

i knew it...since without the iq4 the iota converter puts out 13.5v....i agree that its a good thing......but since i have a solar unit i let that take care of the battery.

14v would be too high for a sustained period of time.
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Jeff Herr WW6L '07 Hawk & '00 F250 SuperDuty CrewCab, Warn 12K, BFG AT KO 'E' rated, TransferFlow 48Gal tank

#6 leadsled9

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Posted 10 March 2010 - 05:52 PM

good idea, i am commencing work...


By "commencing work" do you mean you are installing the voltmeter?

If so, note that the original model suggested had a maximum voltage of 24VDC. A member on this forum had the voltmeter wired to the pump switch, rather than the momentary switch and fried the meter. I found that the exact same meter comes in a version that has a maximum voltage of 40VDC....it might prove more robust with less chance of burning out with a voltage spike. Just let me know if you need more information. The two meters look identical......and cost the same.....with the only difference being maxium voltage
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2010 Ford F250 4X4; 6.4 Powerstroke Diesel; Warn 16.5 winch; Airlift Springs; Transfer Flow 47 gal. fuel tank, BDS 4" lift kit, BDS dual steering stabilizer with upgraded Fox 2.0 shocks, Toyo 35X12.50X18 Open Country M/T tires, Pro Comp wheels;  2008 FWC Hawk Camper;  2000 Toyota Tundra.


#7 pods8

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Posted 10 March 2010 - 06:01 PM

By "commencing work" do you mean you are installing the voltmeter?

If so, note that the original model suggested had a maximum voltage of 24VDC. A member on this forum had the voltmeter wired to the pump switch, rather than the momentary switch and fried the meter. I found that the exact same meter comes in a version that has a maximum voltage of 40VDC....it might prove more robust with less chance of burning out with a voltage spike. Just let me know if you need more information. The two meters look identical......and cost the same.....with the only difference being maxium voltage


That would be me. I don't know off hand if the voltage difference matters (can't hurt though if they are cost comparable), but having it on the momentary switch as opposed to the pump switch so you can make sure stuff isn't running when you turn it on is helpful in protecting it. I had it on the pump so I could leave it on more often while camping to look at the battery levels for personal curiosity. Opps.
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2022 F350 7.3L; family trailer at the moment and some aluminum stuck together to eventually form another truck camper


#8 leadsled9

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Posted 10 March 2010 - 11:06 PM

That would be me. I don't know off hand if the voltage difference matters (can't hurt though if they are cost comparable), but having it on the momentary switch as opposed to the pump switch so you can make sure stuff isn't running when you turn it on is helpful in protecting it. I had it on the pump so I could leave it on more often while camping to look at the battery levels for personal curiosity. Opps.


Hi pods8,

Couldn't remember who it was....must be getting old.

The cost of the two meters is identical (at least from the site where I purchased mine...they had them both) so I don't see a down side.

I attached the two leads of the meter to the circuit board with simple spade connectors so they can be plugged and unplugged at will.

I was thinking of also just running dedicated wires to the battery (like you did later) and have the meter on all the time. It draws such a small amount of current I don't think it would hurt anything. Either way would probably work just fine.
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2010 Ford F250 4X4; 6.4 Powerstroke Diesel; Warn 16.5 winch; Airlift Springs; Transfer Flow 47 gal. fuel tank, BDS 4" lift kit, BDS dual steering stabilizer with upgraded Fox 2.0 shocks, Toyo 35X12.50X18 Open Country M/T tires, Pro Comp wheels;  2008 FWC Hawk Camper;  2000 Toyota Tundra.


#9 NorCalHawk

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Posted 29 September 2013 - 01:59 AM

leadsled9...<br /><br />I have two (24 group) batteries hooked in parallel and I just added a 80watt (portable Zamp) solar panel to give me more freedom. This panel has a controller on the panel, but I would like to see the numbers from inside my camper and not have to go outside every time I want to know what the batteries are doing. Does this make sense? I would like to replace my battery/water monitor that came with my Hawk with the monitor type panel you have, where it shows the level of the water tank and the battery charge condition with the actual battery voltage read out. Do you have the website? It appears I can take out the old panel and just replace it with the new one like yours. Does this monitor just have a black and red wire that connects simply to the batteries? I may not need this, but perhaps I see it as another fun light in my camper. Also, do I need a "smart charger IOTA IQ4" with this voltmeter. Anything else I should know?<br />Thank you.
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#10 craig333

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Posted 29 September 2013 - 03:35 AM

For a quick and easy voltage check I use this

IMAG0210_zpse964d467.jpg

 

IMAG0207_zps1d3c71a7.jpg

I can use it in the camper, truck or the Jeep. Seems fairly accurate and easy of use, just plug it in.


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Craig K6JGV_________________________ 2004 2500 CTD 4X4 FWC HAWK 1960 CJ5





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