34 replies to this topic

[captainphx]

I had started another thread about lithium Ion batteries, and decided not to go that route, hence this new thread.

 

I have a 2012 Raven with an 85 watt solar panel and a Dometic 110 with two group 27 AGM's (That are now dead...again). I have had extreme difficulty keeping my batteries charged while out camping. As I was removing the batteries I noticed a water leak. The leak was in the water tank itself. I removed the water tank. So, I have the camper pretty torn up right now, so I thought it would be a good time to redo my solar system. 

 

First thing I did was upgrade my original 10 AWG FWC wiring from the truck to the camper to 6 AWG. Thanks to DavidO for helping me with that!

 

This is what I am planning on ordering next.

 

1) Bogarts PWM SC2030 charge controller and the Trimetric TM2030A

2) Blue Sea ML-ACR

3) Zamp 160 watt 12V solar panel

4) 2 new AGM's (Crown?)

5) wiring for a portable solar panel

 

Been doing lots of research trying to get myself up to speed. I am not an electrical whiz, I think I can handle this, but does anyone see anything wrong with this equipement so far?

 

I would like to have more solar up top, rather than use a portable, but it seems that the 160 watt is about all I can get on my roof. I plan on removing the 85 watt. My roof has Yakima tracks, which I plan on using to mount the new panel, but I also have 2 Fantastic vents and a luggage rack.

 

 

I could attach a second panel to the top of the luggage rack, but that is to the rear of the roof and thus would add weight to the rear and make it more difficult to lift. And as it is right now, I can just clear the garage door by 1/2 inch. As a last resort I could remove the luggage rack, or at least the top part of it. Anyone see another way to add more watts to the roof? Otherwise, I'll have to rely on the portable, although we usually never stay in one place very long.

 

The Zamp 160 watt is quite expensive, $500. Not sure why. Other panels are quite a bit less expensive, around $200. What's the difference. Any recommendations?

 

Another view of rear part of roof.

 

 

 

Edited by captainphx, 22 November 2016 - 09:19 PM.

[Vic Harder]

Captainphx,

 

Your list of gear looks good.  $500 for 160W is crazy expensive.  http://www.backwoodssolar.com/  has panels for about $1/watt.

 

First question is how much power draw do you have?  What are you running off the batteries?

Next, how long are you parked in any one spot?  Do you have sunshine where you park, or do you park in the shade?

 

Knowing those two things will help determine the AH of the batteries you get.  Crown is a good brand.  Are you looking for maintenance free AGM or are you inclined to check specific gravity and add water once a month?  Flooded batteries are way cheaper, but you do have to vent the battery box to the outside.

 

Assuming AGM, you can drain those down to 50% or so before really starting to affect their lifespan.

 

Since you are upgrading the wiring from the truck and getting the ACR (not really necessary if you have already upgraded the wiring - see posts by Ronanmd1 to this effect) you might be able to get the batteries back up to 80% or so within an hour or two of driving.

 

 

Have you looked at the thread I started a while back while contemplating my solar build?  LINK

[RC Pilot Jim]

Captain,

My 2 cents.

 

Zamp is the very best with a price to match.

 

We are very happy with our Renogy 150 watt, We park our rig under a carport. The solar panel gets reflected light off the neighbors roof which easily maintains the percentage of full at 98% or higher in the winter.

 

The panel - cost $200. weight 26 pounds. It puts out 5.5 amps in December and 9.1 amps in June. We currently use the 10 amp MorningStar controller with no problems.

 

You may need 200 watts or more especially if you camp in the winter time because of the 40% loss of output . You need generate enough amps to run the fridge AND charge the battery.

 

Dr.J has the 110 liter Dometic. PM him and get his input.

 

Battery

 

What is killing your batteries is discharging them below 12 volts consistently.Your charging problems are caused by the amp draw of the 110 Dometic which is at least 5 amps an hour and maybe higher vs the output of the 85 watt panel which is around 5 amps in June and probably 3 amps in December.( you will lose 40% of the output in December because you cant aim the panel at the sun).

 

We have one 79 amp hour - HD Deep Cycle AGM from East Penn Manufacturing. Group 24M Model 8A24M."Intimidator" Click on the link to see the specs.  That was the battery Four Wheel sold in 2012. The guarantee was 24 months East Penn plus an extra 12 months from Four Wheel. Battery lasted 40 months.

 

When I researched a replacement I decided to stick with East Penn because they are manufactured in USA and gave me good service, . Many of the well known brands are now owned by one company and 85% of them are manufactured in Mexico. which has had quality problems.

 

When you get your Trimetric installed and view the amp draw from the Dometic compressor fridge you will be surprised at how high it is. 

 

I would also replace the friction connector on the roof as I was experiencing intermittant loss of connectivity. The wire nuts give you a solid connection in a water=proof box, 

 

Click on the link below my signature. Go to page 15 #'s 137 and 140 for pictures and instructions on the wire nuts and enclosure to hold it.

 

Good luck on your project you will be happy with the results,

 

Edited by RC Pilot Jim, 22 November 2016 - 10:38 PM.

[takesiteasy]

I bought a 160 watt panel for $115 from Solar Boulevard: https://www.solarblv...890231810dc0632

 

It worked great on our recent trip to Utah- easily charged up our Trojan 110 ah AGM battery during the day. We used the battery to run the fridge and a cpap machine at night with the heated humidifier.

 

Here is my build thread: http://www.wanderthe...-solar-project/

Blog writeup here:  http://travelswithro...olar-power.html

[billharr]

I have had good luck with panels from SolarBlvd. 160w now $115 Panel long enough to reach your tracks. 

 

If I was starting new I might go to a 24v panel, you will get more power through the 10 gauge wire from the roof. Would require a MTTP controller. 250w 24v panel $162

 

 

EDIT: JUST GOT AN EMAIL FROM SOLARBLVD. BLACK FRIDAY SALE. 160w panel will be $109 on Friday.

 

 

***DISCOUNTED Prices Will Take Effect On 
BLACK FRIDAY!!***
 

Solar Cynergy 80 Watt 
12 Volt Solar Panel

ONLY $49.99 (.62/Watt)

(Regular Price: $104)

Manufacturer: Solar Cynergy 

Cells: Q-Cells 

Model Name: SLP80-12 

Max Power: 80 W 

Open Circuit Voltage (Voc): 21.0V
Short Circuit Current (Isc): 5.36A
Optimum Operating Current (Imp): 4.65A 

Optimum Operating Volatage (Vmp): 17.0V  

Dimensions (inches): 39 x 20 x 1.33

Weight: 15lbs

Solar Cynergy 100 Watt 
12 Volt Solar Panel

ONLY $72 (.72/Watt)   (Regular Price: $125)

Manufacturer: Solar Cynergy

Model Name: PV-SC100J12 

Number of Cells: 36 cells in a series 

Open Circuit Voltage (Voc): 21.0V 

Short Circuit Current (Isc): 6.30A 

Maximum Power Voltage (Vmp): 17.0V 

Maximum Power Current (Imp): 5.80A 

Weight: 25.35 pounds 

Dimensions (inches): 43.54 x 26.22 x 1.38"  

 

Flexible Solar Cynergy 120 Watt 12V Solar Panel

ONLY $119 (.99/Watt)    

(Regular Price: $159)

Manufacturer: Solar Cynergy

Electrical Data

Maximum Power Output: 120 Watts

Max Operating Voltage (Vmp): 19.8 V

Max Operating Current (Imp): 6.36 A

Open Circuit Voltage (Voc): 20.6 Volts

Short Circuit Current (Isc): 6.06 Amps

Dimensions: 46.5 in × 21.3 in × 0.1 in

Weight: 5 lbs

 

Solar Cynergy 160 Watt 
12 Volt Mono Solar Panel

ONLY $109 (.68/Watt)    

(Regular Price: $165)


Manufacturer: Solar Cynergy

Electrical Data
Maximum Power Output: 160 Watts
Max Operating Voltage (Vmp): 18.73 Volts
Max Operating Current (Imp): 8.62 Amps
Open Circuit Voltage (Voc): 23.2 Volts
Short Circuit Current (Isc): 8.95 Amps
Module Efficiency: 14.70%

Dimensions: 58.31 in × 26.22 in × 1.38 in
Weight: 33 lbs 

 

Solarworld 235 Watt (Silver/White Model) 24V Solar Panel

$139 Ea ($0.59/Watt)

(Regular Price: $342) 

 

Max Power - 208 Watts
Open Circuit Voltage - 37.5 Volts
Short Circuit Current - 8.19 Amps
Max Power Voltage - 30.3 Volts
Max Power Current - 7.77 Amps
Dimensions: 66 x 41.3 x 1.22"
Weight: 46.7 lbs

 

Amerisolar 250 Watt 
24 Volt SolarPanels

$137.50 Ea ($0.55/Watt)

(Regular Price: $192) 

 

Manufacturer: Amerisolar
Model: AS-6P30-250

Maximum Power Output: 250 Watts

Max Operating Voltage (Vmp): 30.75 Volts
Max Operating Current (Imp): 8.19 Amps
Open Circuit Voltage (Voc): 38.2 Volts
Short Circuit Current (Isc): 8.65 Amps 
Dimensions: 64.6 x 39.06 x 1.57"
Weight: 41 lbs

Edited by billharr, 23 November 2016 - 02:03 AM.

[DavidGraves]

Howdy

 

I hope this question fits your thread......

 

Is there a downside to the flexible panels ? The remarkable difference in weight leaves me very tempted to go that route.

 

Love to hear pros and cons.....

 

DavidGraves 

[billharr]

Howdy

 

I hope this question fits your thread......

 

Is there a downside to the flexible panels ? The remarkable difference in weight leaves me very tempted to go that route.

 

Love to hear pros and cons.....

 

DavidGraves 

 

Start reading here. I really wanted to go flex just as the problems started. 

[COBlue]

I agree with RC Pilot Jim that your current set up probably can't keep up with the CR-110 draw.

This spring I bought a 2011 Northstar Laredo with a CR110 and was able to add three Renogy Eclipse 100w mono panels in parallel to the roof along with the Bogart Trimetric and SC-2030 with temp sensor and two used 12v AGM.  I have stayed above 80% SOC through the Colorado summer (no shading).

I assume your ambient temps are higher than mine, so 200w is probably the minimum you need, and close to 300w is better. 

Also reference MelloMike on Truck Camper Adventure- he is in AZ with a CR110 and was on the fence with his initial setup which was roughly 200-240w IIRC.

Your challenge is what you can get on the roof, and how you could supplement with portable panels.

 

I also strongly considered the Renogy flex panels for my Hallmark Milner, because of the weight savings, but that became moot when the panels were discontinued and I sold the Milner. 

 

This winter I will be trading CR110 draw for furnace fan draw and less daylight- I'm looking forward to how that works out.

[DrJ]

I think you have a great plan with the upgrade.
It depends on where you live if 160 watts of solar will be enough.
You could always use the old panel on the roof too or consider using it as a portable panel.
Between the two it would be enough.

The dometic fridge is a great fridge despite the many negative reviews - it just draws a lot of power.
150 watts would be the minimum I'd recommend for anyone with that fridge.

You could consider a 24 volt panel with a MPPT controller.
Less voltage loss and you can get one above 200 watts.

Mine is 250 watts at 24 volts.

Keep us updated on how you like it.

Bill has posted some great deals with solar blvd. hard to beat that price.

I bought mine through Renogy. They are great to work with too.

[captainphx]

 

First question is how much power draw do you have?  What are you running off the batteries?

Next, how long are you parked in any one spot?  Do you have sunshine where you park, or do you park in the shade?

 

Knowing those two things will help determine the AH of the batteries you get.  Crown is a good brand.  Are you looking for maintenance free AGM or are you inclined to check specific gravity and add water once a month?  

 

Have you looked at the thread I started a while back while contemplating my solar build?  LINK

 

My power draw looks like it is less than yours ...maybe 40 AH/day. I am running similar items to you, but we are probably only running the water pump about 15 mins a day, and the heater a max of about 2 hours a day, no flood lights, fans almost always on low. We are typically parked in one spot for just one night, except when we are backpacking, then could be several days, but only the frig would be running then.

 

We spend by far the bulk of our time in the southwest and are almost always in full sun. Yes, AGM batteries are the type I will probably go with, although I am tempted to try lithiums. 

 

Yes, I have been reading your fantastic threads! Now I am suffering from analysis paralysis! MPPT or PWM? 24V panels or 12? 12 volt batteries or 6?

 

I could mount a 160 watt panel in place of my old 85, and there is a perfect spots on the roof, (the luggage rack area) to mount 2, 40 watt panels and then a 100 watt portable, for a total of 340. But, still unsure if all these different panels can work, or how many charge controllers that would require. More reading ahead for me, and maybe a few phone calls. I really appreciate all that all of you very smart people have contributed. A little over my head, but I'm learning.

 

BTW, one of my challenges is the fact that I only have about 29 inches between roof vent fans, so I'm somewhat limited to the panel I can put in there.

Edited by captainphx, 23 November 2016 - 08:48 PM.