8 replies to this topic

[bike4mee]

During our 2 month Baja trip, I realized the trucks alternator is not charging the battery when we drive. A few cloudy days and the battery gets down to 12V. The 120 solar panel does pretty good but it has its limits. I'm expecting the truck to charge the battery

1. How can I test if the camper is getting a charge from the truck?

2. My plug keeps coming out so I really want to replace the whole truck charging system. Is there a good one?

3. Is there a point the the camper goes after the truck charge? Like below 12 V ? or, is it always charging when you drive?

 

2009 Kestral on a 2019 RAM 1500

 

thanks

[Jon R]

Did the truck charge the battery OK in the past?

[Wallowa]

'Bike'....my understanding and I could be wrong....but if you took AGM batteries to 12v you may have permanently damaged them...

[pvstoy]

For a 2009 you have the old style battery separator. If your camper battery is too low in voltage it will not allow charging to the camper battery to protect the truck battery and alternator.  That is sad because that is when you really need the camper battery to be charged.

 

You would only notice if you allow the camper battery to drain down lower below the voltage threshold. 

 

A lot of users have replaced to a different battery separator model and brand.  

 

I think that is what is happening. The system works fine until you drop below, then hopefully the solar can bring it back up past the voltage threshold that allows the alternator to charge the camper battery.

 

OR...

 

The camper battery is up on voltage

• The circuit breakers on either end of the wiring is bad (Unless there are wire fuses instead and blown).
• Bad plug connection between the camper and truck.
• Short in the positive or the negative cable to the camper.

Edited by pvstoy, 22 January 2022 - 05:26 AM.

[Vic Harder]

This recent thread may answer some of your questions

FWC Electrical basics and upgrading to lithium! - Four Wheel Camper Discussions - Wander the West

 

If your batteries are still OK, then upgrading the wiring from truck to camper to 4 or 6 AWG wire, and possibly updating the separator to a Blue Sea ML-ACR would help to keep the alternator connected to the camper batteries and charge them.

 

More info in the links in my signature.

[bike4mee]

Thanks all for the electrical education

1. I will upgrade my wire to 6awg

2. I want to upgrade the camper disconnect plug. What is a good one?

3. What size of a ACR do I need? I have not gone to electric refrigerator  yet, and still have 1 -12v AGM batt

 

Our electrical needs are pretty minimal, but we still drain the battery down each evening to the low 12V range. The 1- 120 solar panel on the roof will get it back up to 13.6 if the sun is shining. We have our 2 kayaks on the roof many a days so (solar) charging is diminished. We have a portable panel that I can plug in for added charging. Cloudy conditions still don't get the battery back up after days of sitting in one place, My goal is to be able to run the truck to help charge the battery in these cloudy conditions. thanks

[Vic Harder]

I like Anderson power pole connectors, they come in a variety of sizes for different sized wires.

I got the ML 7622 ACR. Some folks here may want to sell theirs, since they have moved to lithium and are using DCDC chargers now.

Solar charging is really slow with kayaks blocking the panels! Or clouds. Having an alternate way to charge is a good idea.

[Mthomas]

I would use 4 awg wire. Use welding cable as it is significantly more flexible than automotive cable and will make the job easier.

blocking as little as a square foot of the panel may completely shut it down as far as solar charging. I have validated this by placing a cloth over the panel on mine and monitoring the output in full sun. Solar panels just don’t work well partially shaded. If you need to have the kayaks on top. Consider reorienting your panel to run lengthwise so that the Kayak could be placed to the side of the panel and not over it. It sounds like your AGMs are probably headed for shot, consider a Lithium upgrade while you are messing around with all this. Read up on it first, there are a few parts to the equation.

[Jon R]

Read reviews when ordering welding cable, or measure it when buying in person. A lot of welding cable is under the spec diameter for the stated gage, which may cause problems when swaging connections using true gage crimp terminals.

Another good option is Ancor marine type 3 cable, which is true to gage and very flexible. Costs a bit more, though.