Yeah, yeah, I know - but it's 10pm on a friday night and they aren't open.
Long story short, I have some leaking as a result of tree branch damage that was repaired long ago and it still isn't sealed up 100%. I've been chasing suspect areas down for a while now and still am not happy, plus I think there's some (bent) structural damage on 1 or 2 of the inner ribs. I'd like to have this 100% taken care of before I install a new Yakima rack and think a new roof might be the only way to go. Anybody have a guess?
Cost For A New Roof?
Started by
BSS
, Aug 08 2009 05:08 AM
4 replies to this topic
#2
simimike
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Posted 10 August 2009 - 05:55 PM
I'll address the leaks first. If you have an existing roof rack remove it and reseal the screw holes. Inspect and reseal the top outer edge of the roof. Pay particular attention to the corners. Remove, reseal and reinstall all the screws along the edge of the roof. Replace any rusted screws. Be sure to remove all the old sealant and clean the areas to be sealed. Reseal the roof vents. This is what others have done and that should solve your leak problems. Use a top quality marine sealant, don't use silicone from the home center.
To inspect the roof ribs, Remove the head liner and do a visual inspection. Use a straight edge to check for bends. A tape measure for checking the rack of the roof alignment. Measure corner to corner cross ways to see if the roof is square. If you find damage to the roof ribs I would check with the factory about repairing the damage. Repairs may be cheaper than a new roof. Hope this helps.
Cheers,
Mike
To inspect the roof ribs, Remove the head liner and do a visual inspection. Use a straight edge to check for bends. A tape measure for checking the rack of the roof alignment. Measure corner to corner cross ways to see if the roof is square. If you find damage to the roof ribs I would check with the factory about repairing the damage. Repairs may be cheaper than a new roof. Hope this helps.
Cheers,
Mike
#3
HERR42
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01110010110101
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Posted 10 August 2009 - 06:05 PM
get a quote.
they use sliaprene products for their sealer.
they use sliaprene products for their sealer.
Jeff Herr WW6L
'07 Hawk & '00 F250 SuperDuty CrewCab, Warn 12K, BFG AT KO 'E' rated, TransferFlow 48Gal tank
#4
BSS
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Posted 11 August 2009 - 03:24 AM
That helps a ton. I suppose cleaning and resealing everything all at once is better than hitting one or two suspect areas at a time, so I'll do exactly as Mike advises before pursuing this any further and report back.
I have a big tube of Sikaflex 221. Good enough, right?
I have a big tube of Sikaflex 221. Good enough, right?
#5
marc
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Posted 15 August 2009 - 08:01 PM
That helps a ton. I suppose cleaning and resealing everything all at once is better than hitting one or two suspect areas at a time, so I'll do exactly as Mike advises before pursuing this any further and report back.
I have a big tube of Sikaflex 221. Good enough, right?
Use 3M's marine grade 5200 or 4200 sealent and you will never ever have any problems with leaks.
marc
2016 Sprinter Silver Gray 144 Std. Roof 4x4. 3.0 diesle, Cooper "Dicoverer" ST Maxx 255/85/16
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