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2014 Hawk Wiring Upgrades


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#1 Ben_1987

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Posted 25 August 2022 - 01:20 AM

Hello. I recently picked up a used 2014 hawk. I’m about to wire the truck to camper wiring and possibly perform some updates to the camper 12v system. I called my local FWC dealer to do this work but they never called me back. So after a bunch of forum reading, here we are…  I was hoping to just summarize what I’m planning and that one of you might be kind enough to let me know if I’m about to do something stupid. In summary, here are my plans:

  • Remove
    • Remove the 2-12v AGM batteries. They’re original with the camper so I thought I’d replace while I as doing other work.
  • Add
    • 6 AWG welding copper flex wire+ anderson connectors from truck to camper.
    • 14 AWG wire for marker lights. Thinking ill just put it in the same wire harness as the 6 gauge to send to the headlights.
    • 30-amp thermal fuse under the hood and close to the truck battery
    • DC-DC charger
      • Victron 12/12 30 amp
    • Solar panel
      • 175 watt renogy flex panel using polycarbonate backing for an air gap. I’ve read that adhering them straight to the roof can cause them to overheat and fail.
      • Would rather try the flex panel first to save weight. If the panel fails, I’ll buy a solid panel and replace roof struts to support the weight.
    • Controller
      • Victron MPPT 100 volt 30 amp
    • lithium battery
      • Battleborn 100 ah 12v 
    • Total upgrade is ~$1,800
    • Proposed wiring changes in the attached image.
  • Questions:
    • Any benefits to swapping out the existing battery monitor or shunt to victron to be in the same system?
    • Any other recommendations?

gallery_12017_149_2193103.jpg


Edited by Ben_1987, 25 August 2022 - 01:25 AM.

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#2 Vic Harder

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Posted 25 August 2022 - 05:18 AM

Ben, this looks pretty good.  I'd use bigger breakers than the 30A.  Your DCDC will try to put 30A into the camper battery, and there will be some losses so it will draw more than 30 from the alternator.  60A should be a safe bet.  I also prefer Blue Sea 185 or 285 series surface mount breakers, because you can use them as switches too, for maintenance.  

 

No reason to change the battery monitor.  What brand is it?  If it works, leave it.  If not, check out the Victron Smart Shunt.  Cheaper than the BMV, and less holes to make for guages/controllers.


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#3 Ben_1987

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Posted 25 August 2022 - 01:28 PM

Ben, this looks pretty good.  I'd use bigger breakers than the 30A.  Your DCDC will try to put 30A into the camper battery, and there will be some losses so it will draw more than 30 from the alternator.  60A should be a safe bet.  I also prefer Blue Sea 185 or 285 series surface mount breakers, because you can use them as switches too, for maintenance.  

 

No reason to change the battery monitor.  What brand is it?  If it works, leave it.  If not, check out the Victron Smart Shunt.  Cheaper than the BMV, and less holes to make for guages/controllers.

 

Thanks, Vic. So a 60 amp breaker at the truck battery on the positive line. Looks like based on your electrical thread that you also recommend one right before the DC DC charger in the camper battery box. I'll add that as well. I've also seen people put an on/off switch after the DC to DC charger and the MPPT controller on the positive. Is that helpful in anyway?

 

I looked up the battery monitor model in my camper (d85-3051) and it appears to be an unbranded aliexpress unit. The voltage seems accurate but the amperage does not.


Edited by Ben_1987, 25 August 2022 - 01:42 PM.

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#4 Vic Harder

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Posted 25 August 2022 - 05:57 PM

If its not accurate... 

 

Yes, a breaker on both ends of that fat wire!

 

A switch on the positives of DCDC and MPPT between them and the battery?  Hmm.  I use a bus bar that I can easily get to.  Not sure a switch is needed.


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#5 Ben_1987

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Posted 25 August 2022 - 06:10 PM

If its not accurate... 

 

Yes, a breaker on both ends of that fat wire!

 

A switch on the positives of DCDC and MPPT between them and the battery?  Hmm.  I use a bus bar that I can easily get to.  Not sure a switch is needed.

 

Thanks again. If you're ever passing through Helena, I owe you some beverages of your choice.


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#6 Vic Harder

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Posted 25 August 2022 - 07:19 PM

Thanks again. If you're ever passing through Helena, I owe you some beverages of your choice.

:D


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#7 Wango

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Posted 26 August 2022 - 03:23 PM

Vic,

Could you send me a pm?


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#8 Cpt Davenport

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Posted 30 August 2022 - 10:10 PM

Hey Ben,

 

Can you please post photos of your completed project? This is the exact conversion I plan to do.

 

Thanks!


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#9 Ben_1987

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Posted 30 August 2022 - 10:22 PM

Hey. Im bad at remembering to take photos when I’m working on stuff but I’ll try and remember. Big disclaimer though that I’m new to solar 12v stuff, so be cautious if duplicating something I do.
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#10 Ben_1987

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Posted 01 September 2022 - 05:06 AM

These upgrades have probably been posted many times before, but there was at least interest from cpt davenport. As an added bonus, posting this may lead to others pointing out some mistakes.

 

As opposed to using a solid panel and upgrading struts, I started with building up a flex panel to keep weight down. Plan was to add 3m vhb tape to attach the panel to the polycarbonate. 

 

VskcLoR.jpg

 

Then I added aluminum angle 1.25" x 1.25" x .12" to fasten the panel and polycarbonate to the angle. I'd probably use 1.5" x 1.5" if I did it again to have a little more room for error. There wasn't much flex at all spanning the yakima tracks so I was fine with the thickness. 

 

1eTXVZe.jpg

 

Next step was to fasten the angle to the yakima tracks. Bonus cat...

 

t0csezE.jpg

 

I've read that the polarity can be reversed from the stock FWC wiring to some aftermarket panels. I checked and the renogy flex panel polarity was reversed. Picture of my testing below.

 

Ku3h0XT.jpg

 

I then wired the panel to a controller that came with the camper uninstalled. I could keep using this controller but I ended up buying a victron controller to install with other parts at a later date. You can see that the PV polarity wires are reversed at the controller since the panel is reversed when connected to the stock sae connector on the roof.

 

nde9QQP.jpg

 

Tomorrow I'll plug in the panel once it gets some sun in the morning to make sure I didnt mess anything up. Then after this next trip I'm planning to do the following:

-add some eternabond to the roof panel wires

-run 6 AWG wire + anderson connectors from truck to camper

-run 14 AWG wire for marker lights

-install 60-amp thermal wall mount breakers at truck battery and at camper batteries.
-install victron DC-DC 12/12 30 amp charger
-install victron MPPT 100 volt 30 amp controller
-install victron shunt
-install a few bus bars to keep things tidy
-install battleborn lithium 100 ah 12v battery with the heater kit since the camper will be getting some winter use

Edited by Ben_1987, 01 September 2022 - 05:13 AM.

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