Hi everyone. Unfortunately I sheared another elevator bolt... this time the driver-side front bolt of my 2010 Eagle. Anyone have insight as to how to access this for replacement? It's inaccessible right now, under the cabinetry (from front to back, I have a water pump, stove, and sink), next to the 10gal water tank. Wondering if anyone has done this and has any tips to avoid disassembling the entire cabinetry. Thanks for the help.
How to access driver-side front elevator bolt
- Thread starter swope
- Start date
Give Stan a call at FWC.I think he would have the best solution to your problem.swope said:
Elevator bolt? Do you mean the "eye" bolt that attaches to the tie downs?
Frank
Thanks, Frank. It's the elevator bolt -- snapped off with the eyenut attached. I replaced the previous one that broke with the Grade 5 option from McMaster Carr, fortunately I bought a spare set.
Stan actually responded to a post I made in the Facebook group, he's awesome.
Stan actually responded to a post I made in the Facebook group, he's awesome.
Casa Escarlata Robles Too said:
pvstoy
Senior Member
Look at fwc web page and call Stan. There is a improved bracket you might look at with Stan
Jon R
Senior Member
Hi Frank.Casa Escarlata Robles Too said:
It’s not “the” elevator bolt as if it has an elevator function of some kind on the camper, it’s “an” elevator bolt, which is a specific type of bolt. An internet search will show you what it is and why it has that name.
Thanks Jon.I did check out the parts site,but without a picture I don't knowJon R said:
what that bolt does and what it would take to snap it.
Does it hold down a plate that has an eye bolt to attach the tie downs to?
Frank
I went into the post "Hold down upgrade" below. I am just curious , not having any issues
with my hold downs.
I think I see what swope is referring to.
Frank
with my hold downs.
I think I see what swope is referring to.
Frank
Frank, older campers didn't have the current system with 3"x5" x1/4" aluminum backing plates and climbing anchors. They used an eyebolt (elevator bolt) with large integrated "washers" and a simple fender washer on the underside.Casa Escarlata Robles Too said:
For the OP, the eyebolt is fastened under the truck bed with a large nut. Undo that and you could potentially slide out the old eyebolt and install a new one. The way you describe your setup, I wonder if you can get at the turnbuckles? If you can, you can replace the eyebolt.
Vic I am not having any issues. I was just curious as to the problem the poster is having.
My system is an eye bolt through the truck bed with plates and turn buckles to another
eye bolt in the camper wood base. Typical ATC method.
I have never had any problems with my tie down system loosening.
Frank
My system is an eye bolt through the truck bed with plates and turn buckles to another
eye bolt in the camper wood base. Typical ATC method.
I have never had any problems with my tie down system loosening.
Frank
This is what I did on my older (now sold) Eagle w/ the backer plates, etc. It won't help getting the old ones out but I'd recommend you put backer plates on the truck bed and on the camper. Easy to make (I just bought some alum and drilled hole, squared it out for the bolt).
Attachments
Wildcat
Senior Member
I think Swope is saying that the hold-down eye-bolt protruding from the underside of his camper has sheared off. It's often referred to as an elevator bolt in old posts. It happens occasionally to some older campers although the most common issue is where the elevator eye pulls through the wood on the camper.
I have a 2001 Eagle and I replaced 3 of the 4 elevator bolts (actually they are eye-bolts) with the newer FWC system that I bought directly from them...alum plate on top and strong, elongated L-bracket with hole on underside. I seem to remember that it requires drilling two holes instead of the single hole used for the elevator eye-bolt.
Unfortunately my fourth elevator eye-bolt was totally inaccessible as it's under all the cabinetry for the kitchen galley. I replaced 3 elevator eye-bolts with the FWC upgrade kit as a preventive measure and the one that I couldn't replace is still functional. It's on my list for when I upgrade those cabinets.
The poster correctly evaluated the situation as there's no way to reach his broken eye-bolt unless he removes the cabinets. And he needs space to drill holes and install the new one and/or an aluminum plate. Removing the cabinets is not hard if you are doing a demolition but would require more time if you are trying to remove and replace without damaging some things.
I have a 2001 Eagle and I replaced 3 of the 4 elevator bolts (actually they are eye-bolts) with the newer FWC system that I bought directly from them...alum plate on top and strong, elongated L-bracket with hole on underside. I seem to remember that it requires drilling two holes instead of the single hole used for the elevator eye-bolt.
Unfortunately my fourth elevator eye-bolt was totally inaccessible as it's under all the cabinetry for the kitchen galley. I replaced 3 elevator eye-bolts with the FWC upgrade kit as a preventive measure and the one that I couldn't replace is still functional. It's on my list for when I upgrade those cabinets.
The poster correctly evaluated the situation as there's no way to reach his broken eye-bolt unless he removes the cabinets. And he needs space to drill holes and install the new one and/or an aluminum plate. Removing the cabinets is not hard if you are doing a demolition but would require more time if you are trying to remove and replace without damaging some things.
pvstoy
Senior Member
swope said:
Wildcat said:
If the one that sheared is under the cabinet area and you don't want to rip it out to replace.... Might consider going bolt through the floor method. Find four areas that are easy to get to under the truck bed and inside the camper. Need backing plates inside and out to spread the load over a wide surface area so as not to pull through. Grade 8 bolts and nylock nuts. Careful where you drill, a small diameter drill bit will help locate the hole.
Just another option. I have owned three FWC and all of them have been bolted through the floor. I have never used turnbuckles.
Thanks for doing some explaining of this "elevator" bolt.Wildcat said:
I just looked at the camper end of my Bobcat mounting system.
I do have an elevator bolt also. On the left lower,cabinet area would it be possible to use
an angled head drill to drill new holes and install new eye bolts. Is there enough height
inside the lower cabinet with the slide doors to get a drill in?
This could also be done with the camper off the truck,or put the drill through the turn buckle access holes.
It would mean drilling the new holes not just through the camper wood platform but
also through the finished lower cabinet bottom,since the elevator bolts are installed before the finished cabinets are.
Frank
fish more
Senior Member
The bolt on the left front of my Hawk came loose. I was able to use a hole saw and drill hole inside of cabinet on front side of cabinet large enough to get my hand in to tighten the bolt. Not a easy fix for sure, just a real tight area to access.
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