Noco Genius 10 not charging battery mystery

Maddogs

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Southcentral WA
Am using a Noco Genius 10 for first time when storing FWC Hawk camper for winter. Have 2 of the 190 amp/hr factory installed 6v Deka Intimidator AGM batteries in series for 12v.

Before I powered up the Noco my Renogy battery monitor read 92% charge. When I powered up the charger a couple days ago and set it to 12v AGM mode, it took a few minutes then the status light went to and remained at green.

I go back out today and see the status light still pulsing green but the battery charge percentage is still 92% - I would have expected this for sure to be 100% by now? Literature states 5-7 hours to full charge for this size\type of battery. Or could it be something to do with the battery monitor (attached to factory installed shunt) not reading accurately?

Main battery disconnect switch is and has been off from the get go. Camper has been covered with a tarp the entire time and engine not run so no other charge coming from solar or alternator.
 
My first guess is your batteries are fully charged at the voltage the Noco delivers, and your monitor simply needs to be reset. I’m not familiar with the Renogy monitor, though.
 
There is a 6v setting on it, mine are two 6v in series tho (= 12v) so I am using the 12v setting according to mfg specs.

I have the POS leg of the Noco charger on the POS post of the 1st battery and the NEG leg of the charger on the NEG post of the 2nd battery. I do not have the Noco charger connected directly to the +\- on the shunt or the +\- buses in front of the shunt like the alternator and solar charger connections are - I'm wondering if that makes a difference? Not thinking so as the monitor is connected to the shunt directly as is the battery so it should get a direct reading of the battery state regardless of what the charging source is. Going to check\reset the 100% full voltage setting on the monitor this am but got sidetracked. Will report on findings.
 
Resetting the full charge % did the trick - current charge percent now reads 100%. Voltage reads 13.2 as it did before. On this Renogy RBM500 monitor holding the single 'up' arrow when the battery is fully charged is the reset trigger. On a completely discharged battery holding the single 'down' arrow would do the same.

There were a few other configuration settings I tweaked to match the battery mfg's specs but I'm not sure how much real difference it will have:

- Max Ah capacity was 210, changed to 190 per specs
- Full capacity voltage was 13, changed it to 12.8 (am aware of .2v drop after source charge disconnect)
- Zero capacity voltage was 11.8, changed it to 11.0
- Shutdown voltage was zero? Changed it to 10.0 as a guess (not sure of this at all)
- Kept low capacity alarm at 45% of charge
- Didn't monkey with the batt attenuation ratio
 
Nothing wrong with any of that as far as I can tell.

Dennis was asking about a six volt setting I suspect because he’s wondering how long it’s been since you separately fully charged each 6 volt battery to “equalize” them. Might be good to do that once a year with the Noco as part of your winter storage routine.
 
Not a bad idea on the separate charging for 2 6v batteries. They are really hard to get to in my camper battery compartment to change the wiring of the charger to the 6v separately vs the way they are now however so it may be awhile for me do do that. I have the noco ring connectors bolted to the small battery posts of the 2 batteries in series to make a quick connection with the charger, but I still have the alligator clips I can use with the charger inline connector setup to use for the separate 6v charging using the fat battery posts I think.
 
Maddogs said:
There is a 6v setting on it, mine are two 6v in series tho (= 12v) so I am using the 12v setting according to mfg specs.

I have the POS leg of the Noco charger on the POS post of the 1st battery and the NEG leg of the charger on the NEG post of the 2nd battery. I do not have the Noco charger connected directly to the +\- on the shunt or the +\- buses in front of the shunt like the alternator and solar charger connections are - I'm wondering if that makes a difference? Not thinking so as the monitor is connected to the shunt directly as is the battery so it should get a direct reading of the battery state regardless of what the charging source is. Going to check\reset the 100% full voltage setting on the monitor this am but got sidetracked. Will report on findings.
with the NOCO hooked up like that the battery monitor can't count the electrons flowing in or out of your batteries... the negative of the charger has to go on the shunt like everything else.
 
with the NOCO hooked up like that the battery monitor can't count the electrons flowing in or out of your batteries... the negative of the charger has to go on the shunt like everything else.
I guess I'm not understanding why this would be... I'm no electrical engineer but if the battery is a simple tank and it's getting filled by solar and\or alternator with their connections, and is also getting filled by the noco with a direct battery connection, why would it matter what the power source is if the tank\battery has it's own connection to the monitor\shunt to measure the fullness of the tank?

Edit: I guess I did forget to mention I am only concerned with what the voltage is and calculated state of battery charge percentage is on the monitor at any given time, not necessarily the measurement of variable flow of current or anything else the charger is providing when hooked up like is happening with the solar and alternator connected via the shunt and +\- buses. I am happy trusting the little green light on the charger and the battery voltage reading on the monitor to feel confident enough things are working. Plus it's a major PIA to get to the shunt in this camper :).
 
Maddogs said:
I guess I'm not understanding why this would be... I'm no electrical engineer but if the battery is a simple tank and it's getting filled by solar and\or alternator with their connections, and is also getting filled by the noco with a direct battery connection, why would it matter what the power source is if the tank\battery has it's own connection to the monitor\shunt to measure the fullness of the tank?

Edit: I guess I did forget to mention I am only concerned with what the voltage is and calculated state of battery charge percentage is on the monitor at any given time, not necessarily the measurement of variable flow of current or anything else the charger is providing when hooked up like is happening with the solar and alternator connected via the shunt and +\- buses. I am happy trusting the little green light on the charger and the battery voltage reading on the monitor to feel confident enough things are working. Plus it's a major PIA to get to the shunt in this camper :).
"why would it matter what the power source is if the tank\battery has it's own connection to the monitor\shunt to measure the fullness of the tank?"

If the batteries have a built in BMS as some LiFePo4 batteries do, you could have a great point, if they had a built in shunt. My BattleBorn batteries do not. And a voltmeter is not a good alternative. Accurately determining the SOC requires counting all the current going in and out.

You demonstrated why this is important when you had to "synchronize" the Renogy display to 100%. If you use your NOCO again, it will have to be reset again, every time you are sure it is full.

I hope that helps
 
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