What to look for on a used Grandby
#1
Posted 30 September 2010 - 03:04 AM
#2
Posted 30 September 2010 - 01:29 PM
Will the camper fit your truck? This is a serious question. Get out your tape measure. This may be the real stumbling block.
The electrical part of a Grandby is relatively simple and they have been well engineered. But git rid of that generator because you will need the rifle in good working order if you camp near me with a generator. The campers who populate this forum will not want to camp around anyone with a generator! You should figure out how to wire your truck and whether or not your Grandby is set up for a "house" battery. Welcome to the forum. John D
#3
Posted 30 September 2010 - 02:32 PM
The side liner material can be repaired like vinyl, although I think the actual material is a little better than that. Its recommended to clean/protect it with 303 aerospace cleaner every 6-12mo for optimal life: http://www.303produc...-protectant.cfm
I have a 99' hawk so I'm guessing you're electrical system is basically the same. Heater is 12V only. Fridge should be a 3way that runs on propane, 12V, or 120V (bear in mind on 12V it better be running off a running vehicle or it'll kill a battery quickly). The 120V plug on the outside of the camper feeds into the breaker box and then feeds two (2) outlets, one on the counter and one behind the fridge which the fridge is plugged into. There is not any convertor/charger to provide 12V power from a 120V connection.
I added batteries into the camper and do not run the camper off the truck battery (I do have a charger from the truck to the camper batteries but that only will run when I have the truck on, so again I can't ever drain the truck battery via the camper). I also added a 120V to 12V charger to my camper such that when I plug the camper into 120V it automatically starts charging/floating the batteries to keep them topped off as I use things in the camper that utilize 12V power. FYI: I run my fridge 99% of the time on propane mode with a pilot light reignitor to make sure it doesn't blow out.
2022 F350 7.3L; family trailer at the moment and some aluminum stuck together to eventually form another truck camper
#4
Posted 30 September 2010 - 05:33 PM
The 12v and 120v systems are totally separate in our vintage campers. As had been said the easiest way to upgrade this is to add a battery and then add a charger/maintiner to the mix - so in the situations where you have a plug in you can recharge/maintain your battery. The high dollar option is to wire in a converter/battery charger combo like they have on the newer models... IOTA 30
As for what else to look for - check the sealant on the top screws, clean out the furnace and fridge buners and lines, check the tie downs for pulling through.
After that if all the appliances work - you are good to go!
#5
Posted 01 October 2010 - 03:55 AM
John, I'm not sure how rare the gun is. It has the Whitworth Stamp on the top and side of the receiver but the stock looks like a typical Interarms stock. I'll have to research it a bit.
#6
Posted 01 October 2010 - 01:55 PM
I have a cpap machine so AC power is a must for me.
A small inverter can run this of batteries easily, they don't pull much juice. Some also have a 12V direct connection option.
I'd lean towards that and then if you need to charge up your batteries on a long trip fire up the generator for a bit rather than all night.
2022 F350 7.3L; family trailer at the moment and some aluminum stuck together to eventually form another truck camper
#7
Posted 02 October 2010 - 03:21 AM
I just finished up a dolly for the camper to sit on so I can roll it in and out of the garage. Next step make sure everything works. I have twenty straight days off this hunting season. I can't wait. I am on call 24/7 to fix digital billboards but odds are I should be ok.
#8
Posted 04 October 2010 - 03:16 PM
I'll look into that. Does anybody make an inverter that doesn't have the plug on the end but rather some leads for a battery connection?
They might but what I'd do is just make up (or buy) a little adapter which would be the female cigarette lighter connection and clamps for the battery on the other. That way you'd still be able to use the inverter inside the truck cab to charge cell phones, etc. if you wanted.
2022 F350 7.3L; family trailer at the moment and some aluminum stuck together to eventually form another truck camper
#9
Posted 04 October 2010 - 03:36 PM
I thought the larger ones all had a heavier duty direct to battery connection. The plugs can be a weak link. Chop the plug and put the connectors you want on the wires. I actually have three inverters, one I think 1500w in the camper direct lead to the house batteries, one under the hood with a direct lead to the batteries and an extention that goes through my grill so I can charge our Segway when on the road, and the third which I didn't bother with this last trip is inside the cab using the cig lighter. Maybe I need another, somewhere??I'll look into that. Does anybody make an inverter that doesn't have the plug on the end but rather some leads for a battery connection?
#10
Posted 04 October 2010 - 06:50 PM
I thought the larger ones all had a heavier duty direct to battery connection. The plugs can be a weak link. Chop the plug and put the connectors you want on the wires. I actually have three inverters, one I think 1500w in the camper direct lead to the house batteries, one under the hood with a direct lead to the batteries and an extention that goes through my grill so I can charge our Segway when on the road, and the third which I didn't bother with this last trip is inside the cab using the cig lighter. Maybe I need another, somewhere??
Keep in mind he only needs one of the smaller ones to power the CPAP, that is why I'd just leave it alone so it could still be used in the cig lighter to charge up things, etc.
2022 F350 7.3L; family trailer at the moment and some aluminum stuck together to eventually form another truck camper
0 user(s) are reading this topic
0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users