Refrigerator Lighting Problem - On the Road
#1
Posted 30 June 2011 - 01:43 AM
I have a Norcold 3-way frig in a 2005 camper and I am having problems getting it lit.
It worked for the first six days of my current trip and now it has gone out and refuses to stay lit.
I have lit the gas burners and have run the heater to chase out any air in the lines.
I hold down the red gas button then hit the ignite button. I can hear a "puff" and the red gauge needle moves from white all the way to the end of the green. I hold the gas button for a few more seconds before releasing it and the gauge needle either sits on the far right side of the green for a few teasing seconds before it heads left for the white or it moves left immediately. I ignite the gas again with the ignite button and begin the entire process again, but the refrigerator won't stay lit.
Before the trip I had the gauge replaced because it wasn't working.
Any help would be appreciated.
Dan
#2
Posted 30 June 2011 - 02:11 AM
#3
Posted 30 June 2011 - 04:17 AM
2016 F-150 FX4 XLT SCab | Ingot Silver | 6.5' | 3.5EB | 3.55 w/rear locker | Tow | IBC | 7050# GVWR | 1945# Payload | 36Gal | BFG A/T KO2 LT275/70R18E | Timbrens
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#4
Posted 30 June 2011 - 04:19 AM
Like above, a simple removal of the shield, wipe my finger over the burner tip and nearby parts to remove some surface crust, and back in business.
Quick question along similar lines.. HOW do you manually light the refer? The RV places told me my auto ignite is going out (ie dont work) but it runs if manually lit.. HOW?
#5
Posted 30 June 2011 - 05:08 AM
I just cleaned the burner slits for my neighbor that has a 2002 Hawk.
Once they are clean the flame can burn healthy and the pilot light should stay lit.
It is simple & easy to do, but you will need a few basic tools to get the small wind cover off, so you can get inside to that area to see what is going on and clean it.
Any type of RV, travel trailer, camper, car, truck, boat, etc. etc. will need some general maintenance and "tune up's" from time to time.
Sorry I don't have any pics to share.
Working on my home computer tonight.
Do be afraid to poke around inside refrigerator compartment with a flashlight and try to get a look at the burner tube.
CHECK THIS LINK TOO . . .
http://blog.rv.net/2008/04/maintenance-cleaning-a-norcold-burner/
______________________________________________________________________
Hello all:
I have a Norcold 3-way frig in a 2005 camper and I am having problems getting it lit.
It worked for the first six days of my current trip and now it has gone out and refuses to stay lit.
Stan Kennedy --- Four Wheel Pop-up Campers
1400 Churchill Downs Avenue, Suite A
Woodland, CA 95776
(800) 242-1442 or (530) 666-1442
www.fourwh.com --- e-mail = stan@fourwh.com
#6
Posted 30 June 2011 - 01:39 PM
#7
Posted 30 June 2011 - 02:19 PM
jfb may be on to it with the thermocouple. Again, it seems strange that it would suddenly fail unless it got knocked out of alignment somehow.
I'd go with a gas suppl problem. The amount of gas used by the fridge is completely different from the stove or heater. I think there were some problems with the tanks for a bit. Try hooking up to a different source and seeing if that makes a difference. My two cents worth.
By the way, why do they call it two cents worth but only offer a penny for your thoughts?
"Not all who wander are lost. Except Ted, he's usually lost." Dirty Dog
#8
Posted 30 June 2011 - 04:09 PM
Here is a link I started detailing the simple fix:https://www.wanderthewest.com/forum/index.php?/topic/3677/page__pid__39646__st__0&#entry39646
2010 Ford F250 4X4; 6.4 Powerstroke Diesel; Warn 16.5 winch; Airlift Springs; Transfer Flow 47 gal. fuel tank, BDS 4" lift kit, BDS dual steering stabilizer with upgraded Fox 2.0 shocks, Toyo 35X12.50X18 Open Country M/T tires, Pro Comp wheels; 2008 FWC Hawk Camper; 2000 Toyota Tundra.
#9
Posted 30 June 2011 - 09:55 PM
By the way, why do they call it two cents worth but only offer a penny for your thoughts?
We like to buy at a 50% discount
2021 RAM 3500 Crew 4x4, 6.4 hemi/8 speed trans with 4.10 gears, Timber Grove bags, Falken Wildpeak 35" tires.
OEV Aluma 6.75 flatbed, Bundutec Odyssey camper on order for 2024
For this year we're still using our 2008 FWC Hawk with victron DC-DC charger, 130w solar, MPPT controler
with 2000w inverter and external 120v output and 12v solar input with 100w portable solar. http://lighthawkphoto.com
#10
Posted 03 July 2011 - 05:48 PM
I think it's a good chance it is corrosion on the burner like others have suggested.
Here is a link I started detailing the simple fix:https://www.wanderthewest.com/forum/index.php?/topic/3677/page__pid__39646__st__0&#entry39646
I've studied your photos and description but I don't understand how to pull the burner (with the corroded slits) out. I have loosened the nut using a 5/8" wrench but it doesn't seem to give me access to the burner. Also, I'm not sure about the sheet metal screw holding "the assembly in place." The sheet metal screw I see seems to be holding another assembly in place (one with small diameter copper tubing). What am I doing wrong?
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