5 replies to this topic

[Land-roamer]

I figured I'd do a bit of a dry run by placing the jacks that came with the camper beside it, and show you what I intend to do. I'd appreciate any thoughts about either the equipment or the method, since this is the first time I'll be doing this, and I don't want to screw up and damage equipment or limb.

You can see my driveway is fairly flat, a bit of a slight dip toward the street, and another one toward the garage. I'll position the camper (it sits on a steel frame with rubber dollies) right in front of the garage, and back up the truck in position to reverse underneath it, once camper is lifted properly.

For lifting, I plan on:
1. using the stock cable jacks (2) to lift the camper off the steel platform (which I'll slide away)

2. I'll continue raising with the cable jacks (a few turns on each side so it goes up fairly evenly) until the camper is high enough to position the 4 corner screw jacks (each of those has a capacity of 2000 pounds, and there are stout jack brackets at each corner, as you can see).

3. Once the camper is supported by the 4 screw jacks, I'll remove the 2 cable jacks, and continue lifting with the screw jacks (alternating each side and corner to try to raise the camper evenly). I'll need to measure the distance I need to raise it to clear the truck bed and sides, since the jacks come with several extension pipes that I may need to put on to get sufficient lift (the PO had a high pickup with tall tires, so needed the extra height).

4. I'll carefully back up the truck and ensure I've got sufficient clearance, then continue backing up until the camper is ready to be lowered into place.

A few questions:

- How many people should it take to do this well and safely. I figure at least 2 and probably 3 (one on each side to crank the jacks, and someone else to eyeball from a distance and make sure things are going up evenly and there is no lean on one side or front to back). Then one person to back up the truck, and one person on each side eyeballing things and giving signals if necessary.

- I plan on building a 2x4 pressure treated frame inside the box (2x4's laid flat) - 3 lengths of 8 foot joined by small pieces at each end and in the middle, which will sit in the 8x4' bed space. Then I'll use pieces of 2x4 and shims to support the camper sides on the truck sides. I'll likely keep the rubber mat in the truck. Does that sound reasonable?

- I know those cable jacks have a bad reputation, and I'm not crazy about using them (the lock pins seem to have been re-welded) but figure I have no choice, unless I use the corner screw jacks to raise one end at a time, block it underneath the camper, then the other end, block it, etc., until I can add sufficient extensions to raise it high enough. I don't have sawhorses and don't really want to build any if this is going to be a one-time thing (ie. get the camper on and leave it on!). Any thoughts?

- As per another thread, I figure I'll take the tailgate off (which will allow me to access the spare tire mechanism on my truck). That means the last 2 feet of the camper will be unsupported below, is that an issue?

Thanks a lot for putting up with these questions, and hopefully providing me with your thoughts and suggestions. Maybe that can also help someone else doing the same thing down the road.

--Robert

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[pods8]

I'd just use the corner screw jacks to go up to their max extension, then one by one retract then and add in the extension piece and crank it back down to the ground (you can either block under the camper or use the camper jack as backup while doing this). Then continue lifting it up to the required height.

As for people, 1 can do it. 2 would be nice. 3 isn't really needed but doesn't hurt. Normally with my FWC, I just keep working around the rig solo raising each jack up a few inches working my way around the rig till it's at the height I need. Then I'll usually have my wife help spot me backing up since it's a snug fit on my truck (I've got the 59+" rear on mine instead of the 58", I'd probably be able to thread the needle fine solo with the 58"). After that she goes back off to what she's doing and I lower it solo in the same manner by working my way around (usually I'll work both fronts and then both rears before switching to the back/front).

[Argonaut20]

2 thoughts that are worth what they are costing you.
1. Could you get an extension for the crank used to lower your spare? Maybe a local welding or metal fabrication shop could fab an extension so the tail gate doesn't have to come off. I'm a little worried about a 2 foot unsupported floor on the Alaskan. Maybe something with a U joint so you wouldn't have to be directly in line with the port???
2. When I owned an Alaskan I mounted it using cable jacks. The truck wasn't lifted (3/4 ton IH 4X4 - stock) so the jacks were able to get it to the necessary height. The procedure was to lift a little on each side so the tops of the jacks didn't contact the top of the camper. Once the camper was 1 to 2 inches above the bed height I backed the truck under the camper, lined up the bolt holes in the camper with those in the truck bed with a pry bar and slid in a couple of long bolts to keep it aligned, then lowered the camper down to the bed. Take a little time under the truck to secure the bolts. Remove the jacks and drive off. I did this by myself as a rule. It sounds a little scary but, if the jacks are well placed to support the camper, it isn't difficult. Just don't get in a hurry. Monitor the progress as you back under the camper to be sure you are not rubbing the truck against the camper, either on the sides or on the bed.

[MikeDahlager]

I agree with argonaut20, don't get in a hurry.
I dumped my camper while unloading due to the down slope of my driveway. When I pulled forward, the rear end of the truck raised enough to catch the camper and twist it to the ground. Spend the rest of the day jacking it up and getting the cradle underneath. Spent the next two days repairing it. Lesson learned. Have a second person eyeballing the clearance between the fenders and the underside of the camper.
Finally, don't stress out over the process. I load and unload mine several times a year as my neighborhood CC&Rs prevent me from parking my truck with the camper loaded on it for any extended period of time.
Mike

[Oz_70]

How did it go, any problems?

[Rusty]

Robert,

Mike is right...don't stress out senior....this too shall pass

2 is good 3 will make you feel better and after you get some Atwoods or Reico Titans for the corners you'll feel right at home doing it by yourself.

Don't take the tail gate off...if you haven't done it yet...you need the support

take it easy with those cables and like Mike said watch the slope...the third person watching that......eventually it's nice having your rack just a few inches lower than the bed so there isn't as much jacking going on....

with 2, our family has it worked out so it's loaded in about 15 minutes...my daughter is getting pretty good at cranking the handle....I take it all the way up in the front on the atwoods and then just high enough in the back to clear the tailgate cranking evenly on both sides at the same time....

airbags bled empty drops the bed about 4 inches empty....so if you have them, empty them before and refill before you go anywhere. Not a good idea to drive around with weight and empty bags.

If you have happijacks you'll need to pay attention to the crossbar as you lower the camper into the bed

good luck....or...I hope it went well