26 replies to this topic

[pods8]

Yes that could most certainly be an issue. Loose fittings = high resistance and thus voltage drop (and also heat generation which is a danger). On the running lights the scheme is likely a power wire for those, a power wire to the camper batter, and a negative wire from the camper battery (which would also serve as the negative for the lights as well). So if the camper power wire was loose (white wire if its the black/white stuff) then that could easily be occurring. If the black is loose its still possible since the lights don't need much in terms off amps flowing to work.

The fact it was clicking on/off would also lend towards your finding. The connections being loose drop the voltage the seperator is seeing so it turns itself off thinking the truck voltage is falling. Once off the lack of draw will cause the voltage numbers to rise again and it'll turn itself back on. Repeat.

[bsharp007]

Dusted off my multimeter today and rewired the 3 prong plug (female) from the camper using good quality heat shrink waterproof crimp connectors. Everything looks pretty solid on that end. Measured the voltatge at the male 3 prong connection plug in the truck bed and it's putting out 14.10 volts with the truck running. The fully charged camper batteries are at 13 volts right at the batteries with all charging disconnected. I think I'm running out of things it could have been in my mind it's either the loose fitting in the plug or the the battery separator. Curiously the wire crimp connection that was loose is the wire that powers the running light although they always worked fine.

Once I have the camper on the truck again I'll confirm the voltage is getting past the separator. The truck battery was at 12.6 volts with the motor off and at 14.3 with the engine on. My understanding is that with at least 14.10 volts coming into the camper charging system the separator should be open allowing the charging of the camper batteries? The Sure Power website says as long as the separator senses 13-13.5 volts in the charging system it connects the truck battery and camper batteries...when it drops below 12.4-12.9 volts it closes the connection. So my understanding is I should have at least 14 volts coming into the separator in the camper with the truck running and therefore into the batteries?

[pods8]

You should see voltage coming through with some voltage drop depending on how many amps are flowing (should be minimal with full batteries though).

[bsharp007]

Problem solved! It was a loose wire in the cord that plugs into the truck bed. No more issues after rewiring the plug plenty of battery power to run the fridge for a few days at a time especially with solar. A happy camper again.

[craig333]

/woot. Glad you got it figured out.

[mountainsun]

I thought there was an "Ultimate Battery Thread" somewhere in the forums?

 

I am looking for some schematics or detailed instructions on what parts are needed, and instructions on how to install an auxiliary battery between my inverter/converter in camper and truck battery.

I have searched and come up with nada.

 

Thanks!

[camper101]

Mountainsun, not sure if this will help? Scroll through a few pages, as the design gets a little more robust after the first diagram.