Curious, Stronger bottle jack needed?


Apr 9, 2020
[SIZE=11.5pt]I have a 2004 4x4 V6 3.4L Taco TRD. Stock bottle jack in truck.[/SIZE]
[SIZE=11.5pt]I am getting a new FWC bare fleet shell soon. Can't wait after seeing some great mods and journeys.
My question is,[/SIZE]
Does anyone carry a heavier duty jack to lift the truck and camper in the event of a rear flat tire?
My Spidey sense tells me this would be a good idea.
I bought a 10 ton for my F250 that I have never taken my Granby off of.
Does not take up much room at all. Fits under my driver seat.
I used the standard jack in my Toyota T-100 with a FWC Shell well loaded up for a week in the desert and a rear flat. The only problem was the soggy subsurface of the soil. Fortunately I found a piece of a 2"X6" nearby so I was eventually able to jack up the truck rather than drive the jack into the ground.

Lesson(s) learned? Carry a piece of lumber and don't drive past one of those signs that says "next services 145 miles" on tires that should have been replaced a year ago.
The OEM jack should handle the vehicle GAWR (front and rear).
If over at either axle, get a bigger jack. Otherwise it is a personal choice.
The factory jack will certainly work, as mentioned already. However, a four-ton hydraulic bottle jack would make the process much easier. Then look at the accessories from Safe Jack; they'll turn your bottle jack into a complete recovery kit.
Stock jack is fine IMO. I have used many times on my RAM with Cummins. 7200lb empty and the jack has no problems loaded. I will say the base is a weak point and can fail if not flat or careless placed on ruff rocks. The extra weight of a heavier duty jack doesn't seem worth it. I have used these jacks for maintenance frequently and would trust on 10000 lb vehicle.
Follow your initial gut instinct and go with Bigger & Higher Lift Jack plus Base Plate. You never know WHERE you will be or at what ANGLE you will be in. Let everyone else deal with their Stock Jack.
For normal jacking type uses the OE jack in a Toyota should be more than up to the task. Their advantage is that they are mechanical. That means that they can be operated sideways, upside down, or whatever. A hydraulic jack can not do this. Only downside that I've seen to the Safer Jack products, and I was given a complete suite of them, is that they are heavy. Heavier than they need to be if some real Engineering had be done first.

After having done it with a Hi-Lift I recommend that any recovery type uses for a jack be turned over to a winch. Heck of a lot safer and a lot less work.
I say buy every thing your credit card can handle and then the whole rig will weigh too much to get out of your driveway.....don't forget the snorkel......and an adventure hat with the little strap under your chin.

I have used my stock Tacoma jack to lift my Tacoma/Fleet FB combo on a couple of occasions - it worked fine. The base of the stock jack is pretty small - so a stout board to spread the load is useful on soft ground. The stock jack is particularly short, so you can usually get it under the axel, even with a fully flat tire. Many of the aftermarket jacks are too tall to get under the axel. You can always crib a short jack up to make it taller, but you can't shorten a tall one.
I have the Safe Jack accessories and knowing the jack won't slip off makes me much more comfortable. I'd also agree about the hi lift. Avoid using it for changing a tire if you can however, I've had to change a tire on my Jeep where a mechanical or hydraulic jack just wouldn't work.
Thanks you all for your input as I am a newbie when it comes to having a camper.
I suppose I will carry a couple blocks of wood and it sounds like the stock jack will suffice.
I carry two jacks in my truck/camper rig just for redundancy. Remember the survival motto of “two is one and one is none”.

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