Suburban stove partial removal - how to?


Feb 13, 2023
Southcentral WA
On our mid-'23 Hawk shell, the igniter on one of the burners on the suburban stove (post-recall) has quit working and I'm wanting to take a peek at it to see if it's just loose or bad wires. There is a small phillips screw at each corner on the top of the stove, and I loosened those hoping I could pry the top of the stove up and out of the cutout (after breaking putty seal) far enough so I could see what was going on in there. When the screws started spinning freely without coming out however I got kind of nervous and stopped - I am hoping I didn't pull the screws out of any anchors that are now loose and created a problem. I am now wondering if I needed to remove the front cabinet cover entirely to get at the stove bottom? Thanks for any advice on this.
On our camper, those screws are connected to plastic clamp assemblies with “arms” that press up against the bottom of the counter to secure the stove when you tighten them. In order to remove the stove or lift it up very far, you have to loosen the screws enough to allow those arms to be rotated out of the way so they clear the counter when you lift the stove out of the cutout. On our camper I could reach all four clamps/arms through a drawer on the front of the cabinet (although the back left required some contortion). When you re-install the stove you have to rotate those arms back so they contact the counter again when you tighten the screws. I found the hardest part of all this to be dealing with the butyl tape. However, if you don’t have a conveniently located drawer on your camper, it might be more difficult.
This may not be relevant to your situation, but I revived a failed igniter by cleaning the electrode with a bit of sandpaper. Good luck!
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