36 replies to this topic

[challinger]

Hi guys,

I'm a newbie here and I also bought 2017 Hawk in March. I have the 85L and was having the same problems with my fridge as the OP stated. What worked for me was I installed a computer cooling fan on the inside of the fridge, powered from the light. It draws .19amps. I live in southeast Va. Before the install the temps in the fridge would vary from the high 30's in the back to low 50's at the door on the really hot days. Now with the fan running it maintains even temps in the front and back staying in the 30's. My dial is usually set around 3 once I have the initial cool down from start up. Having the air moving around on the inside of the fridge solved my problem.

Thanks,

Carl

[RONR]

Hi guys,

I'm a newbie here and I also bought 2017 Hawk in March. I have the 85L and was having the same problems with my fridge as the OP stated. What worked for me was I installed a computer cooling fan on the inside of the fridge, powered from the light. It draws .19amps. I live in southeast Va. Before the install the temps in the fridge would vary from the high 30's in the back to low 50's at the door on the really hot days. Now with the fan running it maintains even temps in the front and back staying in the 30's. My dial is usually set around 3 once I have the initial cool down from start up. Having the air moving around on the inside of the fridge solved my problem.

Thanks,

Carl

Carl. Thanks for your post. Your fan install sounds interesting. Could you give us a little more detail on how you installed the fan “powered from the light”? I’m not sure how you would make the connection and doesn’t the power from the light cut off once the door is shut?

Thanks, Ron

[challinger]

Ron,
I was able to make the connection before the switch. When the cover for the light is pulled down the wires are exposed. I fished the fan wire thru the back of the housing and made the connection with a tap splice. It all fit nicely in the housing with light cover back in place. I used the flexible wire conduit (not sure if that's the correct term) to protect the wires and the self adhesive cable tie mounts for holding the wires tight to the wall. Also installed, an on/off switch and inline fuse. Before doing this I called indel Webasto and they said the .19amp draw from the fan would not be a problem. The fan is wire tied to the top shelf just below and a little bit to the right of the freezer blowing from back to front. I tried the battery powered Valterra FridgeCool fan and got poor results.
I hope this helps.

Thanks, Carl

[RONR]

Carl. It helps. Thanks!

[Vic Harder]

Ron,
I was able to make the connection before the switch. When the cover for the light is pulled down the wires are exposed. I fished the fan wire thru the back of the housing and made the connection with a tap splice. It all fit nicely in the housing with light cover back in place. I used the flexible wire conduit (not sure if that's the correct term) to protect the wires and the self adhesive cable tie mounts for holding the wires tight to the wall. Also installed, an on/off switch and inline fuse. Before doing this I called indel Webasto and they said the .19amp draw from the fan would not be a problem. The fan is wire tied to the top shelf just below and a little bit to the right of the freezer blowing from back to front. I tried the battery powered Valterra FridgeCool fan and got poor results.
I hope this helps.

Thanks, Carl

carl, what size fan - inches and cfm - did you use?

[challinger]

Vic,

The frame is 3.125in x 3.125in and it's 31.43cfm.

Carl

[adamxcl]

I have been happy thus far with the fridge. The first couple of trips out , I was playing with the temp a lot. I put my old FridgeCool in it and it seemed to make a big difference. Had to lower the thermostat dial by two numbers. FridgeCool (current name for it from what I found) is just a little fan that runs two D batteries. They say 30 days on the batteries but I usually get a full season out of them.