36 replies to this topic

[Andy Douglass]

So do you have an open ticket with FWC or Isotherm to address the problem?

[CamperCamper]

I don't want to sound condescending, but have you checked the seals around the door?  Something might be causing the fridge to be unable to achieve the lower temperatures you are looking for.  Another possibility might be a temperature switch that is faulty or installed improperly.  Perhaps something is stopping the dial from spinning to its' lowest position.  Have you listened to the motor?  Does it shut off or does it run continuously?  It is possible that you have received a defective fridge.  It happens!

 

I have a new 85L Isotherm in a Hawk flat bed.  My first trip out (above 90 every day), I set the temperature to the lowest rating, I filled the fridge and freezer and at the last minute decided I wanted to bring some ice cubes along.  The freezer was full so I placed them in a zip lock, inside a tupperware container and placed them at the bottom of the fridge.  Then I forgot about them and did not use them the first night as planned.  When I discovered them 3 days later, they were still frozen (not even sweating).  I had many things to discover on that trip so had not even given the fridge a bit of thought.  I took them out and finally adjusted the fridge to the proper setting.

 

I owned a 2014 Hawk slide-in before the flat bed and have spent weeks on end out on isolated beaches in Mexico in absolute hot, direct sunlight.  I always had cold beer but the fridge did run an awful lot-took a breather after the sun went down every day.  That fridge was the 85L Dometic too!  If I wasn't careful, produce would get ruined by too much cold!  FWC changed to the Isotherms because they are a better fridge.

 

As to your complaints against the folks at FWC, I think that is an isolated problem.  I would try again if I were you.  I have found them to go very far out of their way to solve customer complaints and problems when presented calmly and politely (not insinuating you were not either).  Try speaking with the person who answers the phone and tell her of your problems. she will get you to the right person.  From my own experience, my life would be a lot simpler if half of the companies I deal with provided half as much customer service as I have experienced from FWC!

 

Best of luck and please do follow up and let us know how it turns out.  This too shall pass and you will be a happy camper again.

Edited by CamperCamper, 14 July 2017 - 06:35 PM.

[abqbw]

To answer a few questions.

The seal is good. I have even rigged up a bungie to make sure fridge door doesn't rattle open and closed while driving.

The thermostat seems good as when it is below 90 ambient fridge reaches a consistent set temp. The fridge simply can't maintain below 40 deg when ambient hits about 97 deg. And that is tested using a wireless thermometer and not opening the fridge door for days.

The compressor is running. All day because it is not making set temp.

I wouldn't say I have an open ticket with FWC. I'd say it is an abandoned ticket. At their request I emailed pictures of the wires in vent space. They were to get back to me and haven't after a few weeks. About all the info FWC could provide is that they put all the fridges on the bench in their warehouse and if they make temp they are considered good. They could not speak to what ambient temps that the fridge is able to provide safe food cooling in the real world. Isotherm could not provide this information either. What I do know from my testing is that performance is significantly below specifications.

I have generally received good and helpful service from FWC in the past. Based on my latest experience, apparently they have out-grown their ability to provide reliable technical assistance.

[PaulT]

I have the Dometic 110L compressor in my 2014 Hawk. It has taken me 3 yrs to arrive at a truce with the fridge. I started out with the thermostat near max and it ran most of the time resulting in batteries quite depleted in the morning. Found point down near 6 where fridge stayed cool enough but could rise to 45.
Added portable 100 watt that could be kept in sun because 100 watts was insufficient. Helped but fussy to keep in sun & vulnerable if we left camper during day. Added 160 watt panel to roof rack. Now have mostly happy batteries.

Just completed week & half in Olympic NP. Played with fridge control & monitored with wireless thermometer. Found spot near 4 where fridge turned on at 41F & off at 37F reliably. Surprised that it was a "warmer" setting. Fridge ran significantly less than before. If sunny, extending awning enough to shade fridge vents, helps a lot.

In reports from Stalking Light and others, the fan makes a significant improvement in removing hot ambient air from cabinet around fridge.

There are two blue wires with connectors mounted in fridge compartment for optional fridge fan that terminate near switch panel and have connectors for panel switch that was not supplied but can be purchased from FWC. Must mount fan in top vent which is non trivial task because awning blocks removing top vent screws.

All in all, this "learning experience" is making headway to making me a happier camper. Just didn't worry about fridge temp or battery state much on this trip.
Next task is completing back up camera mounting.
Paul

[abqbw]

I have the Dometic 110L compressor in my 2014 Hawk. It has taken me 3 yrs to arrive at a truce with the fridge. I started out with the thermostat near max and it ran most of the time resulting in batteries quite depleted in the morning. Found point down near 6 where fridge stayed cool enough but could rise to 45.
Added portable 100 watt that could be kept in sun because 100 watts was insufficient. Helped but fussy to keep in sun & vulnerable if we left camper during day. Added 160 watt panel to roof rack. Now have mostly happy batteries.

Just completed week & half in Olympic NP. Played with fridge control & monitored with wireless thermometer. Found spot near 4 where fridge turned on at 41F & off at 37F reliably. Surprised that it was a "warmer" setting. Fridge ran significantly less than before. If sunny, extending awning enough to shade fridge vents, helps a lot.

In reports from Stalking Light and others, the fan makes a significant improvement in removing hot ambient air from cabinet around fridge.

There are two blue wires with connectors mounted in fridge compartment for optional fridge fan that terminate near switch panel and have connectors for panel switch that was not supplied but can be purchased from FWC. Must mount fan in top vent which is non trivial task because awning blocks removing top vent screws.

All in all, this "learning experience" is making headway to making me a happier camper. Just didn't worry about fridge temp or battery state much on this trip.
Next task is completing back up camera mounting.
Paul

Thanks for explaining the loose wires. Surprised that FWC couldn't explain them a couple of months after they manufactured the camper. I found the two blue in the vent space but could only find a blue and a black in the battery box. They were bundled a cable tied with a bunch of other wires. I didn't want to cut the bundle loose on a search and (in my case) destroy mission to find out if the other blue wire was bundled in there so I called FWC for insight. Not a clue and no follow up.

What fan did you use-if you installed one?

[Spitfire]

PaulT,

 

Interesting that the 110L Dometic runs better on a setting of 4. I have one too and I usually run it between 6 and 7 like you did. Is it exactly 4 or a little above or below?

Edited by Spitfire, 18 July 2017 - 11:32 PM.

[PaulT]

What fan did you use-if you installed one?

I have several fans pulled from computer or other electronics equipment over the years for trial. Not sure which one will be best & want to be able to exchange as needed. They are 12 volt fans that typically pull .15 to .5 amps. I can install with VHB tape permanently but want to be able to replace easily until I think I have the right one. With the fridge on passenger side, the Fiamma awning blocks access to the upper screws holding on the vent to the camper. Removing the awning requires drilling out the 5 pop rivets with one hand while holding the 40 lb awning up and balanced overhead with one hand. So, I have been biding my time until I get some help with disassembly. It hasn't been the highest priority yet but all the parts are on hand.

Interesting that the 110L Dometic runs better on a setting of 4. I have one too and I usually run it between 6 and 7 like you did. Is it exactly 4 or a little above or below?

It is just a little above 4. Start there and monitor temp for several cycles for the cut in/cut out temps and adjust up or down until you get the temp range you want. I don't think the controls on these fridges could remotely be called precise and there may be significant differences between different units. When you are happy with the range of temps, mark the dial with a fine Sharpie so you can get close the next time you camp unless you leave the fridge running all the time as some here do.

Paul

[Vic Harder]

Paul,  Regarding placement of a second fan, I think your Isotherm fridge is build like my TruckFridge, with the compressor and cooling fins in the top right rear of the fridge (looking at it from the front where the beer goes).  

 

If so, you might want to think about putting your second fan inside the camper like I did.  That way the stock fridge and second fan create a huge draft over the condenser coils.

 

You can see the fan I added in the pic below.  It is a big 12v fan that I wired into the stock fridge's harness so it comes on with the stock fan.

 

Vic

 

[PokyBro]

These are some questions to Vic, in relation to the above response, but anyone is welcome to provide insights.

I am installing an Isotherm 130, 12 volt D.C. Fridge, and I'm trying to get my venting right the first time. I have an upper and lower exterior vent the width of the fridge, from another camper with a Dometic 3-way fridge. I also found a smaller exterior vent I could use that is about 5" x 12", and would perhaps provide adequate air without overdoing it. I realize many campers utilize the full width venting top and bottom.

So, Vic....

I was curious how you feel your fridge venting has worked out for you over the summer. It sounds like adding the fan shown above was favorable. What is the sound level when your fridge is running? What size vent(s) did you use to bring in exterior air. Too me it doesn't make any sense to have a bottom vent, nothing down there.

Thanks,

Poky

Edited by PokyBro, 23 August 2017 - 05:40 AM.

[DanoT]

Paul,  Regarding placement of a second fan, I think your Isotherm fridge is build like my TruckFridge, with the compressor and cooling fins in the top right rear of the fridge (looking at it from the front where the beer goes).  
 
If so, you might want to think about putting your second fan inside the camper like I did.  That way the stock fridge and second fan create a huge draft over the condenser coils.
 
You can see the fan I added in the pic below.  It is a big 12v fan that I wired into the stock fridge's harness so it comes on with the stock fan.
 
Vic
 

Vic, your auxiliary fan is mounted on what is essentially an outside wall, so I suggest that if you plan to do any cold weather camping that you install a separate on/off switch for the aux fan as well as a cover for the fan.

I mostly do winter camping in ski area parking lots, so I have insulated the "outside walls" on either side of the back of my built in fridge.

Edited by DanoT, 23 August 2017 - 01:51 PM.