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Aluminum body F-150 and F250 and Steel eye bolts.

eye bolts aluminum F150 four wheel camper

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#11 jrwdlw

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Posted 25 March 2019 - 02:07 AM

You have a couple of choices. 

 

1. Use aluminum bolts (McMaster.com).  They have 2024 aluminum bolts up to 5/8 diameter.  The tensile strength is low compared to steel (30,000 psi), however you could use more of them.

 

2. Mount the camper using a TorkLift frame mount setup, which means no holes in the bed.

 

Regarding trying to isolate the bolts from the bed.  I'm not real sure I like the idea of bolting thru an aluminum bed.  Aluminum will fatigue and crack much faster than steel.  I would be afraid that there is going to be cracking at some point.  You safest approach would be the TorkLift setup.  Just my opinion.


Edited by jrwdlw, 25 March 2019 - 02:08 AM.

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#12 Ohpyramids

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Posted 25 March 2019 - 04:34 AM

Why not get another set of steel bolts and isolators that ford uses to attach the bed to the frame? Realistically, I feel like you’d be fine with some antiseize on the bolts and paint on the exposed bed, but you could go a step further and build a 1” subframe that isolates the fwc from the bed.

Either way, I’ll be looking into this same issue later this summer. Curious where you net out.
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#13 PaulT

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Posted 25 March 2019 - 07:47 AM

Perhaps, something to consider are the multitudes of aluminum outboards with stainless steel props, mounted to aluminum boats with steel bolts and moored in saltwater for months on end. The sacrificial zinc anodes control corrosion and are replaced as needed.

I am considering replacing my 2010 Tundra with an f250 or f350. Corrosion of the mounting bolts or aluminum bed will not be as major a concern as getting the camper charging by alternator correct.

Paul
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I thought getting old would take longer.

#14 Advmoto18

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Posted 25 March 2019 - 12:07 PM

Since moving to the SC coast a year ago, I have been in the process of replacing all FWC factory installed zinc coated fasteners.  They will rust and rather quickly if exposed to salt air.

 

2019-03-25-08-01-54.jpg

 

FWC zinc coated bolts, washers, nuts attaching the front tie done bracket to my 2015 Hawk.

 

Ford has issued bulletins addressing the issue the OP is most concerned about.

 

I would follow the bulletins.  If unable to do so, I would fashion Delrin or similar material isolators to prevent contact.


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South Carolina Low Country.  Whatyanogood?


#15 Advmoto18

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Posted 25 March 2019 - 12:14 PM

Perhaps, something to consider are the multitudes of aluminum outboards with stainless steel props, mounted to aluminum boats with steel bolts and moored in saltwater for months on end. The sacrificial zinc anodes control corrosion and are replaced as needed.

I am considering replacing my 2010 Tundra with an f250 or f350. Corrosion of the mounting bolts or aluminum bed will not be as major a concern as getting the camper charging by alternator correct.

Paul

 

Excellent analogy!

 

Both my Yamaha F60 (2017) and F40 (2018) utilize "zincs" (sacrificial anodes) for use in saltwater to prevent corrosion.  Even long ago sold outboard motors used "zincs".

 

I fish throughout the Cape Romain National Wildlife Refuge and Santee River Delta, saltwater estuaries, never had an issue with any of my motors as long as I monitored the condition of the "zincs" and replaced them as needed.


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South Carolina Low Country.  Whatyanogood?


#16 Lobster

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Posted 25 March 2019 - 01:56 PM

Whenever I bolt anything to aluminum on my commercial fishing boat, I coat the aluminum, washer, bolt with ‘rector seal’.
Provides a barrier between the dissimilar metals that get drenched in saltwater everyday. Works well.
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#17 PaulT

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Posted 25 March 2019 - 02:40 PM

Earlier thread here on this issue.
http://www.wanderthe...bulletin-q-222/

There are a number of discussions related to this issue.
https://www.sharptru...vanic-corrosion

Contacting Ford & FWC directly about this issue should be on the list of due diligence items.
Paul
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I thought getting old would take longer.

#18 ntsqd

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Posted 26 March 2019 - 04:17 AM

All that has to happen is to electrically insulate the steel hardware from the aluminum body panel(s) and the galvanic corrosion problem is disconnected. Drilling the hole in the aluminum panel may allow other forms of corrosion to occur, but if insulated it won't be galvanic.

 

If super concerned about this the Tork-Lift suggestion eliminates all of the potential issues.

 

I like Fords. I used to bleed Ford blue. I'd never buy an aluminum bodied truck.


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Thom

Where does that road go?

#19 iowahiker

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Posted 26 March 2019 - 10:09 PM

Aluminum automobile bodies were used by Porsche 50 years ago and were/are very sought after because of durability.  

 

In the absence of current, aluminum self protects by creating a hard protective coating of aluminum oxide when cut or exposed to air.  Repeated erosion of the aluminum oxide on sheet metal should be avoided.  

 

My understanding is the turnbuckles from the factory are aluminum and they are in contact with steel eyebolts.  I see no failure occurring after 6+ years of heavy use.  

 

Sending current through dissimilar metals in series can cause failure depending on the metals and I have seen this occur.

 

Many 1,000,000's vehicles have aluminum heads bolted to steel blocks with steel bolts with no galvanizing.  


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2013 Ford F-150 Reg Cab, Long Bed, 5.0 V-8, 4x4, payload package + 2012 FWC Granby

Over 900 camper nights in six seasons.

"The frog does not drink up the pond in which he lives"  (Proverb)


#20 klahanie

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Posted 27 March 2019 - 01:51 AM

In the absence of current, aluminum self protects by creating a hard protective coating of aluminum oxide when cut or exposed to air.  Repeated erosion of the aluminum oxide on sheet metal should be avoided.  

 

My understanding is the turnbuckles from the factory are aluminum and they are in contact with steel eyebolts.  I see no failure occurring after 6+ years of heavy use.  

 

Many 1,000,000's vehicles have aluminum heads bolted to steel blocks with steel bolts with no galvanizing.  

 

That reminds me about the turnbuckles. Mine are actually steel hooks and AL turnbuckle body. And as I've posted ad nauseaum, I'm still using the FWC originals almost 22 years later. Never seen any corrosion in the contacting thread areas but then gain, they are used only seasonally.

 

Having a AL camper deck I have seen a white powder which  assumed was aluminum oxide, mostly wherever there has been a hole drilled (and not repainted). Seems particularly bad when a SS fastener is used in the hole. These SS fasteners are always thru bolted as the I believe the threads in the AL would never stand up long term. This corrosion might be aggravated by weather exposure.

 

The bare AL deck has cargo tie downs that are plated (zinc ? but smooth). These are thru bolted with a similarly plated fastener. I haven't seen any corrosion here but even if, the backer plates are 1/4 AL and frankly, will prob outlast me.

 

Back to the OP. I read it differently. Less that the poster was looking for mounting solutions and more that he/she was cancelling the order, pointing out the concern to the readership and hoping that the mfr would understand.

 

I had a few thoughts on cancellation or immediate resale which, if the OP is interested I can post up.


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~David.  2010 F350 C&C w camper deck. 1997 Granby, orig owners.






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