Jump to content


Photo

Replace, Upgrade, or Repair Norcold Fridge/Freezer?

Refrigerator Six-Pac T100S Tacoma Advice

  • Please log in to reply
39 replies to this topic

#31 foakes

foakes

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 18 posts
  • LocationSierra Nevadas of California

Posted 26 April 2019 - 01:44 PM

Right, cwdt —

The stove and furnace work very well on the LP. There is also a HW heater, but we have never used that.

Thanks OC — I will run through the voltage checks on the TSB Troubleshooting chart again today.

Yesterday, I started to disassemble the burner box and the thermocoupler holder. Just going to clean up all of the contact points that touch each other, as well as the inside of the thermocoupler holder — so that a solid testing can be done of the millivolts at different points — so that there is no unwanted resistance present.

The flame is the best and strongest that we have ever had on this Norcold refrigerator, after all of the cleaning. Blue, complete across the burner tube slits, and seems very hot.

Best,

Fred
  • 0

#32 cwdtmmrs

cwdtmmrs

    Senior Member

  • Members
  • 542 posts

Posted 26 April 2019 - 03:27 PM

Right, cwdt —

The stove and furnace work very well on the LP. There is also a HW heater, but we have never used that.

 

 

 

I think that would rule out anything to do with the tank or regulator


Edited by cwdtmmrs, 26 April 2019 - 03:27 PM.

  • 0
CWDT

#33 foakes

foakes

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 18 posts
  • LocationSierra Nevadas of California

Posted 19 July 2019 - 10:01 PM

After 3 1/2 months of getting advice from the great members on this forum, the Norcold N.300.3 fridge/freezer in my 2002 Six-Pac Camper — is now repaired — and working better than when new.

Much was learned along the way — and I will share a little of what I learned, diagnosed, and discovered —

With the gas control valve set at # (3) of the 5 positions — the fridge now cools down to 40 degrees for a few days — or as long as I keep it running. I switched over to A/C this morning — just to check all systems.

Next, the shop manual diagnostic box procedure was helpful to eliminate possibilities as I went through the next/next steps, in order.

Ended up purchasing some parts — likely not all were needed — but now I do not need to worry about something that I may have tried to “get by” with.

Purchased (2) parts from the NorcoldGuy — prices were high — and his response to my emails for advice on next steps was “0”.

Purchased a new pair of wires that connect from the interrupter to the selector switch and gas valve.

Purchased a new interrupter.

Purchased a selector switch.

Purchased a thermocouple.

Purchased a new regulator for the gas system.

Purchased a complete gas valve assembly.

Replaced the burner tube and the orifice.

Spent about $400. A New unit would have been $850, delivered to my house from Adventure RV, the lowest price.

Prices for factory Norcold parts on Amazon — were approximately 1/3 to 1/2 less than going through the NC Guy, or Norcold.

All parts were sealed original Norcold parts.

Everything was completely cleaned of the crud and mud wasp infestation — plus, mesh screens were installed underneath the roof mounted chimney cap, and also on the (3) vents on the side exterior access for the rear of the fridge.

I will try to add some photos to this post using the procedures that Old Crow helped me with. We will see how that goes.

Thank you all — for all of the help and advice.

Project completed.

Best Always,

Fred

Attached Thumbnails

  • BE42CB09-6F81-4023-8CCD-ABFEFE801613.jpeg
  • 492E297E-F5EA-4A6F-8B93-8C2D0D7ABDD7.jpeg
  • FD22D972-AC94-4BB6-B1E8-38439E25FFE4.jpeg
  • D2237E31-3523-4FE6-88A3-7108FCD7363C.jpeg
  • 564AE919-0E66-443E-AF24-CB734EE50454.jpeg
  • AF88C6AB-E759-43CD-9D42-45CF452DD776.jpeg
  • 2A5E484B-3B72-4C9E-8BA0-4A41BE296660.jpeg
  • 0582A9F5-7ACF-4D89-BF34-28E7E5F9320C.jpeg
  • 4ED638E7-8B73-4D07-9104-3B2445A2E5BE.jpeg
  • 0F850DB5-5603-4597-8DA5-3636FB3BA28F.jpeg
  • 89AEA0BC-7952-433B-B50B-80ACB9BF39E7.jpeg
  • 06F6109E-461F-4A9C-902A-67333B8EB190.jpeg

Edited by foakes, 20 July 2019 - 12:02 AM.

  • 0

#34 Wandering Sagebrush

Wandering Sagebrush

    Free Range Human

  • Site Team
  • 6,276 posts
  • LocationNorthern Oregon

Posted 19 July 2019 - 10:04 PM

Good news! That’s some real determination!
  • 0
Real Dogs Have Beards - Fear the Beard

Tu Ne Cede Malis

#35 foakes

foakes

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 18 posts
  • LocationSierra Nevadas of California

Posted 20 July 2019 - 04:25 PM

A other question for the experts —

Likely an easier one.

When checking the LP gas pressure — I have a manometer that screws into the gas line — to adjust the pressure to 11WC.

I understand that this is important to do with maybe a couple of stove burners on along with the furnace?

I got this bright idea (maybe not) that a gauge could be mounted permanently in line somewhere.

Maybe in the fridge compartment rear access — or perhaps closer to the LP tank and compartment so there would not be a heat issue?

Or should I just use the portable manometer?

Thanks!

Best,

Fred

Attached Thumbnails

  • 2854E982-7C09-44BD-9D04-1D686B446320.jpeg
  • D060887B-F371-4879-8E13-BDB7F3EF6AEE.jpeg

Edited by foakes, 20 July 2019 - 04:58 PM.

  • 0

#36 Old Crow

Old Crow

    The Researcher

  • Members
  • 761 posts
  • LocationSouth Central PA

Posted 21 July 2019 - 02:30 PM

Hi, Fred...

 

Glad to see your fridge is working well.  Thanks for letting us know how it turned out!

 

On your LPG question....

 

You may want to view this video about how LPG systems are tested by RV technicians. It's helpful for the principles behind the testing process and provides interesting details like gas-pressure ranges seen during the process and pressures acceptable to LPG appliances.

 

 

I don't think I'd permanently mount a manometer but only because I don't think it would be all that interesting.  After a testing session to check that things seem to be working and not leaking down, I'd rely on seeing the signs of a developing problem by changes in flame color and sound at the stove, water heater, and/or furnace.  And of course I'd respond immediately to the smell of LPG or to an alarm.

.


  • 0

'01 FWC Hawk shell on a '13 Tundra Double-Cab  + '94 Econoline sport-top campervan


#37 foakes

foakes

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 18 posts
  • LocationSierra Nevadas of California

Posted 22 July 2019 - 06:48 AM

Thanks, OC —

I will follow your advice in not adding a gauge — plus the video was very helpful!

Best,

Fred
  • 0

#38 foakes

foakes

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 18 posts
  • LocationSierra Nevadas of California

Posted 25 July 2019 - 04:19 PM

This topic was posted in the wrong place to start through my mistake...

Can an Administrator or Moderator please move it to a more appropriate category — such as Four Wheel Campers (it is the same company) — or another category that is more applicable?

I would appreciate that!

Thanks.

Best Regards,

Fred
  • 0

#39 Wandering Sagebrush

Wandering Sagebrush

    Free Range Human

  • Site Team
  • 6,276 posts
  • LocationNorthern Oregon

Posted 25 July 2019 - 04:48 PM

Fred, because those refrigerators are used across multiple RV brands, my recommendation is to leave it here where more people will get exposure to your efforts.
  • 0
Real Dogs Have Beards - Fear the Beard

Tu Ne Cede Malis

#40 foakes

foakes

    Member

  • Members
  • PipPip
  • 18 posts
  • LocationSierra Nevadas of California

Posted 25 July 2019 - 05:10 PM

Good idea, SB —

Hope it helps a few folks.

Best,

Fred
  • 0





Also tagged with one or more of these keywords: Refrigerator, Six-Pac T100S, Tacoma, Advice

0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users