23 replies to this topic

[Dughlas Stiubhart]

Years ago the guys at All Terrain Camper gave me this sheet.    They made it very clear that the floor pac had to be supported if people would be walking inside while the camper was off the truck.

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[Kispiox]

Regardless, if can load floor or not (FWC told me must be supported), mine is very wobbly just on the jacks anyway and I wouldn't want to be in it without something under it. I have used picnic tables and other assorted makeshift supports the few times I have jacked it free to use my truck while fishing somewhere for an extended stay. With the floor supported and on jacks I have hung on the forward edge of the cab-over and my 200lbs does not tip it. Regardless, I still feel better anchoring the rear door end by putting down a couple of spiral dog anchors and tying them off to the top of the jack at the rear corner brackets with a truckers hitch. Okay, okay, I'm a belt and suspenders kind a guy.....

The typical architectural standard for a picnic table is 28". My truck bed is 33", so not much jacking but you do need help moving the table. I have used them length ways and sideways depending upon the table and site concerns. It also obviously needs to be leveled up.

Edited by Kispiox, 30 March 2015 - 09:02 PM.

[bfh4n]

Why not just lower it onto the ground (or driveway or garage floor)?

 

- Bernard

[100acrehuphalump]

Matt at Mainline Overland told me to build a support 'X' out of plywood to support the weight and to not use the jacks alone for when the Hawk is off the truck. It's a $20 fix for something that may cost $1000's if your floor falls out. Sounds like sage advice to me.

Edited by 100acrehuphalump, 02 April 2015 - 11:51 AM.

[wpage66]

Sweet, the plywood X solution is great, Cut them and load them flat in the bed of your truck before loading in camper, you have them if you need to unload in the woods, just need some scrap wood, rocks to level them up when off loading.

 

I need to raise mine up anyway to get it to clear the bed rails on my 2010 F150, this will be a new solution to my bed platform.

[longhorn1]

Sweet, the plywood X solution is great, Cut them and load them flat in the bed of your truck before loading in camper, you have them if you need to unload in the woods, just need some scrap wood, rocks to level them up when off loading.

 

I need to raise mine up anyway to get it to clear the bed rails on my 2010 F150, this will be a new solution to my bed platform.

Better be careful, if you have a full water tank and your camper is loaded.  That is a lot of weight to be lifting.

[Bill D]

Better be careful, if you have a full water tank and your camper is loaded.  That is a lot of weight to be lifting.

 

I agree, you should always be careful.

 

Each camper jack is rated for 2000lbs.  Lowering the camper down on a stabilized platform will only add more stability.  I see no issue.  You just don't want to start cranking 50 cranks on one jack at a time.  I do 5 cranks at a time on each jack (I actually count, just to keep things even).

 

If you already have plywood in your truck box to raise your FWC to clear the bed ralls, why not have it serve multiple purposes?  I like the idea.

Edited by Bill D, 03 April 2015 - 08:09 PM.

[longhorn1]

My comment wasn't directed at the lifting rating of the jacks, but the amount of weight on the unsupported floor.  If you go to take it off while camping with a full water tank, full porta potti you are liable to damage the floor or have everything come crashing down.

[craig333]

I wouldn't leave mine unsupported camping but I have gone inside while its supported by the jacks to do maintenance and it seemed pretty stable. Still I don't see much reason to do that while actually using the camper.

[BILL98388]

I used a couple of plastic sawhorses under the floor (1000 lb. capacity per pair) from HD or L for $25, cheaper than plywood and weigh less.  Support left on jacks AND sawhorses, feels pretty stable.

 

Bill

2104 Grandby/2015 Tundra (8-ft bed)

Steilacoom, WA