46 replies to this topic

[rudhawk]

I don't think a FWC on a Miata would corner that well.

[doinepicstuff]

Rudhawk, 

 

Congrats on the purchase! I have a 2005 Kestrel (its a hawk made for the shallow bed of the 1st Gen tundra). I ran this on my 2002 tundra and it worked awesome. I had bilstein 5100s w/ BFG all terrains. I went with super spring sumo springs rather than airbags. Simply put its a giant bumpstop. They worked really well and you never had to worry about air leaks etc. Also they are a lot cheaper. Anyways I sold the 2002 tundra and got a 2016. Kind of kicking myself for that but the 1st Gen feels a little underpowered at highway speeds and in the mountains. Feel free to private message me with any questions. I'd start explaining the camper set up but its too long to list... Safe travels.

[carld]

I have a 2002 V6 4x4 manual shift Tundra access with 220k miles.  I replaced a 2011 Palomino 800 Bronco camper with an 2015 ATC Ocelot with cabinets, fridge and heater. ATC reduce the height to fit my 2002 type 1 Tundra, and increased the soft top by 2" to compensate.   I had already added Air Lift air springs, Hellwig EZ-990 Load Leveler helper springs, replaced the back shocks with Bilstein HDs and have LT265/75R16 E tires.  Ride wise It works good, side to side stability is good but I have noticed some front to back issues especially on concrete overpasses, maybe I need to replace the front shocks. 

 

As near as I can calculate the camper weighs 950 lbs without water and propane.  Those CAT scales seem to be accurate to around +/- 100 lbs, without camper front weighs 2600 lb + back 2000 - gas, extra tools, and add on’s =  4307 (specified curb weight is 4320).  With the camper the front weighs 2620 and the back 3120 = 5740 (GVWR = 6000) with gas, water, propane, camping equipment, extra tools, and some food.  Add a couple of people and more gear and I’m running about 200 lbs above GVWR.

 

Milage wise I drive around 65 mph.  On the 1700 mile trip to  Reno to pick up the camper I averaged 19 mpg and on the 3100 mile way back with  the camper I averaged 15.6 mpg.  I run about 50 psi in the air springs, and 45 psi front and 50 psi back in the tires.  

 

I find it difficult the get the combination of spring adjustment, air lift pressure and tire pressure. Maybe because I can’t find a level parking spot.   In May I’m headed to Alaska for 45 days and 9000 miles so Im making a serious effort to get it right (combination of level and ride), and replace the front shocks. 

Edited by carld, 26 March 2016 - 04:20 PM.

[Vic Harder]

I don't think a FWC on a Miata would corner that well.

 

LOL, thanks for that!

[Lighthawk]

great link.  do you lose some clearance with this?  hard to tell

 

My answer is yes.  We got stuck  in saturated mud a few years ago and as I tried to back up the sway bar was catching on ground, since we were sunk to the axles.  

[rudhawk]

Ok - Hellwig bar installed. One thing about the installation. Don't be confused by the Hellwig instructions stating the Sway bar arms should be parallel to the ground - that is only if the camper/load is already installed.

 

Since I don't have a camper as yet, the sway bar arms are in a slightly upswept position and the "hoop" in the bar around the differential is parallel to the ground.

 

Next on the agenda- Firestone Sport-Rite Air Helper Spring Kit & then, hopefully I'll find a used Fleet or Hawk.

Edited by rudhawk, 29 March 2016 - 05:32 PM.

[carld]

Got her done, replaced the front shocks with some Bilstein HDs.  I ordered the shocks from Amazon and delivered in two days yesterday, just in time for great weather.  Put the truck up on jack stands and pulled the old shocks.  I noticed that the sway bar ties were looking shabby after 200k I'll replace whatever is easy for $50.  I borrowed a strut spring compressor from O'Rely Auto parts, I think they charged me about $5.  It really made a difference on the steering stability and the front to back bounce.  

 

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[rudhawk]

Sounds like you're about ready for that Alaska trip. And with all you've done to the Tundra, we'll expect reports on the various upgrades. I guess the new front shocks are already worth it. Were the old shocks OE with 200K miles ?

[carld]

Yes, they didn't look as bad as I expected.  In 2005 around 90k Toyota replaced the lower ball joints due to a recall and I also had them do the 90k maintenance.  Then in 2012 at 180k the 5th gear was whinging so I had the transmission rebuilt, the clutch replaced, installed a heavy duty alternator, had another 90k maintenance + water pump, belts and hoses.  At 180k it was time for the clutch plate. Here a picture of the old shocks and sway bar ties.

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[Cooter]

Yes, they didn't look as bad as I expected.  In 2005 around 90k Toyota replaced the lower ball joints due to a recall and I also had them do the 90k maintenance.  Then in 2012 at 180k the 5th gear was whinging so I had the transmission rebuilt, the clutch replaced, installed a heavy duty alternator, had another 90k maintenance + water pump, belts and hoses.  At 180k it was time for the clutch plate. Here a picture of the old shocks and sway bar ties.

Who rebuilt your transmission?  Did you buy a factory rebuilt like Jasper or have a local shop do the work?  I had a Jasper engine and transmission put in a 1987 4WD Suburban back in the 90's but none since and was just wondering what your thoughts on best way to go with rebuilt were today.