18 replies to this topic

[Wandering Sagebrush]

Craig, thanks for the search and finding the answer to the foam question.  It make for an interesting idea to fill the tubes with foam.
Not sure of the true benefits but it couldn't hurt being that the roof is insulated everywhere except for the tubes.
 
Cheers!

My guess is that foam in the tubes won't have much of an effect. Those sneaky little temperature critters are just going to follow the aluminum, or at least that's my uninformed opinion.

[ntsqd]

Condensation happens because there is a "Cold Path" that causes some interior surface to be cold enough to condense water vapor. Either from exhaling (could stop doing that I guess) or from an open flame. Propane is pretty good at producing only water vapor and CO2 when burnt.

 

If you can obliterate (my $5 word for the day!) or partly degrade the cold path then the condensation either won't happen or will happen at a lower rate. As I understand the process it is driven by the temperature differential. So by making that differential smaller (better insulation) the condensation will also be reduced. The moisture is still in the air, there's just nothing as cold causing it to condense.

 

Not that it's an option here, but one way I've seen the cold path dealt with is to essentially "laminate" two 1/2" thick walls or roofs together where the studs/rafters in the wall are deliberately offset from each other. Which breaks the cold path thru the wall. Perhaps by making the roof another 1/2" thicker with structure in different places than existing and a new layer of 1/2" insulation this could be done?

[ckent323]

NTSQD, Wandering Sagebrush, et al,

 

Agreed that the Aluminum is a conductive path and condensation will continue to occur on the outer surface of the Aluminum tubes but I am suspicious that condensation forming on the inside of the hollow tubes gets channeled to the ends where there are joints and which are at the lift panels.  I think that is at least one cause of water damage and mold that many folks get primarily at the lift panels and in the corners. 

 

Filling the tubes with foam does not stop the condensation on the outside of the tube but it may minimize it happening on the inside of the tubes as well as block the flow of condensed water to the joints at the ends of the tubes.

 

 I suspect that is what the folks at ATC also determined and why they put form in the tubing at the corners.

 

 

I hope that better explains things.

 

Regards,

Craig

Edited by ckent323, 21 June 2017 - 09:07 AM.

[Wandering Sagebrush]

Craig, that makes sense to me. Thanks!

[Beach]

 

No, I have never used the stainless or monel into the aluminum but have driven them into some very hard woods and HDPE. I rehung the wood strips in my camper with S.S. screws(easy to remove if needed.

[cj1]

Beach, thanks for the response.

May end up using the screws but since I'm replacing entire headliner wanted to try stapling it.

[shellback]

Beach, thanks for the response.

Tried 18 gauge 1/4 inch narrow crown standard staples but bent on impact with tubing.

Suppose stainless/monel would penetrate or is it necessary to go with special high carbon steel/ sharp point .

(Type used for stapling canvas to aluminum awnings).

 

Problem is  the cost of the staples if i keep trying until successful.

The stainless/monel worked for you?

If so will purchase a box.

 

Thanks

This is what I used to staple my headliner. 

Porter-Cable NS150CR 18-Gauge 1/4 in. Crown 1-1/2 in. Narrow Crown Stapler Kit

It drove the staples easily except for the beam where the roof panels joined. Maybe the beam was of heavier material due to the joint? I didn't use wood strips, I used 3/4 inch wide plastic screen door trim from Home Depot.

[Beach]

I like that idea of using plastic strips, no wood, nothing organic for mold to thrive on. I made new replacement oak strips since I only had to replace 2 -3' sections. 

[Captm]

This is what I used to staple my headliner. 

Porter-Cable NS150CR 18-Gauge 1/4 in. Crown 1-1/2 in. Narrow Crown Stapler Kit

It drove the staples easily except for the beam where the roof panels joined. Maybe the beam was of heavier material due to the joint? I didn't use wood strips, I used 3/4 inch wide plastic screen door trim from Home Depot.

Most likely you were hitting staples in the beam.  They are spaced at 1" intervals with a lot of other staples randomly placed among them.

Cheers!