Jump to content


Photo
- - - - -

Door alignment issue


  • Please log in to reply
10 replies to this topic

#1 kmcintyre

kmcintyre

    Senior Member

  • Members
  • 1,388 posts
  • LocationBoise, ID

Posted 05 May 2018 - 02:50 PM

My older (2001?) FWC is having a door alignment issue.  I've attached photos but basically there are some small washers (see door 2 photo) on the hinge portion of the door that I suspect have just worn down a bit over the years.  The rubber bumper on the bottom of the door (see photo door) is rubbing/hitting the bottom of the door frame and the door sticks.

 

Anyone replaced or added washers to the hinge or ????  I could shave the rubber bumper down but that's a temp fix.

 

Thanks,

 

Kevin

Attached Thumbnails

  • door.jpg
  • door 2.jpg

  • 0

Boise, ID

2022 Chevy 3500 HD

2023 FWC Flatbed Hawk


#2 Wandering Sagebrush

Wandering Sagebrush

    Free Range Human

  • Site Team
  • 10,650 posts
  • LocationNortheast Oregon

Posted 05 May 2018 - 03:11 PM

Kevin, give Marty or Jeff at ATC a call. I suspect they’ve seen a lot of this over the years, and could give quick advice on the best fix.
  • 0

I am haunted by waters


#3 klahanie

klahanie

    Senior Member

  • Validating
  • 932 posts
  • LocationSW BC

Posted 05 May 2018 - 09:47 PM

I could shave the rubber bumper down but that's a temp fix.

 

 

Kevin, I'd be interested in the solution when you find it.

 

Reminds me of shaving down the heavy mirrored door on an Edwardian wardrobe we have. Took me a while to realise the door was being held up by the bottom edge. The more I took off, the more it sagged - oops !


  • 0

#4 JaSAn

JaSAn

    Grumpy Old Man

  • Members
  • 1,110 posts
  • LocationMinnesota

Posted 06 May 2018 - 01:44 PM

My older (2001?) FWC is having a door alignment issue . . .

 

First make sure your frame is square, not twisted.  If my Grandby is not sitting on a flat surface the frame will twist enough to misalign the door.


  • 0
Sköldpaddan, a 1977 FWC Grandby
Renovating Skoldpaddan
2012 Ram 2500 4X4
1951 Dodge Power Wagon

#5 kmcintyre

kmcintyre

    Senior Member

  • Members
  • 1,388 posts
  • LocationBoise, ID

Posted 06 May 2018 - 05:42 PM

First make sure your frame is square, not twisted.  If my Grandby is not sitting on a flat surface the frame will twist enough to misalign the door.

 

Good point but this happens all the time and even in the garage where it's 99% flat :-).  


  • 0

Boise, ID

2022 Chevy 3500 HD

2023 FWC Flatbed Hawk


#6 JaSAn

JaSAn

    Grumpy Old Man

  • Members
  • 1,110 posts
  • LocationMinnesota

Posted 07 May 2018 - 12:58 PM

I measured the spacing on my door hinge: there is 0.04" of vertical travel in the hinge (the door slides up and down on the hinge).  Has your door have more vertical movement than this?  (looks like more from picture.)

 

I would try slipping in (horseshoe) shims to see if that temporarily corrects the problem.  Looks like I would have to cut my Grandby's door frame apart to replace the washers; door frame is welded at the corners.

 

Calling FWC or ATC is the best advice.

 

jim


  • 0
Sköldpaddan, a 1977 FWC Grandby
Renovating Skoldpaddan
2012 Ram 2500 4X4
1951 Dodge Power Wagon

#7 Old Crow

Old Crow

    Searching....

  • Members
  • 1,060 posts
  • LocationSouth Central PA

Posted 07 May 2018 - 02:21 PM

Kevin-

 

I thought it odd I've not noticed that rubber bumper on my 2001 as I believe we both have the Philips doors of that era.  I took a look this morning and see I don't have a bumper.  A previous owner must have removed it.  I see the screw-hole for mounting it, the outline of the bumper, and a mark on the door frame where it used to sit. But no bumper.

 

My door works fine without it but of course we wonder if that could lead to a problem later on.

 

Replacing the washers doesn't look easy.  It looks like it would require removing at least part of the door frame from the camper. And a simple swapout may not be a good answer anyway as it may not be the washers that are wearing.

 

I was also thinking it may be possible to use a dremel to notch two very thin washers  (the horseshoe-washers idea) to shim the door up a teeny bit.  I'd probably try to make them an interference fit with the center rod but perhaps glue or epoxy the new washer edge to the old.  Come to think of it, I'd probably just try to hot-glue the edges. ( I do see, however, that the spacing is different on my two hinges.  One is .020 and the other .035 inches so washer selection could be an issue)

 

Also- I've adjusted household doors with a bit of shim material under a hinge. I'd consider trying a piece of aluminum flashing or soda-can aluminum under the bottom hinge (if I had a problem).

 

Realistically, though, if I didn't get a better answer from FWC/ ATC, I'd just go ahead and shave the flat side of the bumper and see how it goes. I don't plan to do anything about my missing bumper but will be checking the door occasionally for hints of a developing problem.


  • 0

'01 FWC Hawk shell on a '13 Tundra Double-Cab  + '19 Ford Transit van with Quigley 4x4 option


#8 kmcintyre

kmcintyre

    Senior Member

  • Members
  • 1,388 posts
  • LocationBoise, ID

Posted 07 May 2018 - 04:15 PM

Kevin-

 

I thought it odd I've not noticed that rubber bumper on my 2001 as I believe we both have the Philips doors of that era.  I took a look this morning and see I don't have a bumper.  A previous owner must have removed it.  I see the screw-hole for mounting it, the outline of the bumper, and a mark on the door frame where it used to sit. But no bumper.

 

My door works fine without it but of course we wonder if that could lead to a problem later on.

 

Replacing the washers doesn't look easy.  It looks like it would require removing at least part of the door frame from the camper. And a simple swapout may not be a good answer anyway as it may not be the washers that are wearing.

 

I was also thinking it may be possible to use a dremel to notch two very thin washers  (the horseshoe-washers idea) to shim the door up a teeny bit.  I'd probably try to make them an interference fit with the center rod but perhaps glue or epoxy the new washer edge to the old.  Come to think of it, I'd probably just try to hot-glue the edges. ( I do see, however, that the spacing is different on my two hinges.  One is .020 and the other .035 inches so washer selection could be an issue)

 

Also- I've adjusted household doors with a bit of shim material under a hinge. I'd consider trying a piece of aluminum flashing or soda-can aluminum under the bottom hinge (if I had a problem).

 

Realistically, though, if I didn't get a better answer from FWC/ ATC, I'd just go ahead and shave the flat side of the bumper and see how it goes. I don't plan to do anything about my missing bumper but will be checking the door occasionally for hints of a developing problem.

 

Waiting to see what I hear back from Marty but I could take the "bumper" off but I suspect it reduces wear off the hinges.  I could take it off, see if it works better then shave it down.  

 

More when I figure it out :-)


  • 0

Boise, ID

2022 Chevy 3500 HD

2023 FWC Flatbed Hawk


#9 kmcintyre

kmcintyre

    Senior Member

  • Members
  • 1,388 posts
  • LocationBoise, ID

Posted 07 May 2018 - 09:12 PM

Ok, I looked closer at my door.  I think this will be really easy.

 

If you look at the top channel, there are 2 screws holding an alum. channel that has the door hinge rod in it.  I think if you take those 2 screws out, the channel comes out and you have access to the hinge rod.  You can then pull the rod out, add washers and voila! 

 

See the picture for one of the 2 screws.

Attached Thumbnails

  • top channel door.jpg

  • 0

Boise, ID

2022 Chevy 3500 HD

2023 FWC Flatbed Hawk


#10 kmcintyre

kmcintyre

    Senior Member

  • Members
  • 1,388 posts
  • LocationBoise, ID

Posted 24 May 2018 - 01:38 PM

Update!!!!

 

I have a lot of pictures but don't think I'll post them unless someone needs to see them and you'll figure out why when I tell you my "story".

 

Started off, taking the screw off the top thinking the rod/hinge would slide out.  No such luck.  Took the door off thinking the pressure on the hinge was keeping it from sliding out.  No such luck.  I could not get the rod to slide out to put in new washers.  Soooooooo I came up with plan B.  I took some washers, cut a notch out of them (cut is slightly smaller than the diameter of the rod).  Tapped them in with a hammer/mallot.  Voila!  Perfect!  Close the door.  It still sticks!!!!!  Removed bottom bumper and took off a bit with a grinder!  That'll fix it and not really what I wanted to do (seemed like a band-aid approach).  Still sticks! 

 

Played with the door a while longer.... I push the door in and see that the bumper is clearning the frame but I hear a click!  Um....  When I'd open the door, the screen wouldn't open with the door.  Ummmmmm....

 

Look at the screen door latching mechanism.  I can't really tell how that works as it latches to the door frame but then opens with the door.  Anyway.......... I played with the alignment on the latch and that was it!!!!  Door doesn't stick.  

 

So, I learned a lot and spent about an hour figuring out that my screen door was out of alignment with the latch.  All the slack/play of the door is fixed though :-).

 

Now I need a new bumper as I think it reduces the stress on the door frame/hinges when closed.  Anyone know where you can get them?????

 

I hope this all makes sense and as I said, I have pictures thinking I'd document the procedure for others.   The gap on the hinge was about 1/8" when I pushed up from the bottom.  

 

Phew......


  • 0

Boise, ID

2022 Chevy 3500 HD

2023 FWC Flatbed Hawk





0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users