83 replies to this topic

[ski3pin]

Hittheroad, thanks!

[Jack]

So how are folks attaching the reflectix to the windows? We tried velcro strips, and that worked for a while, but slowly the velcro backing came off the frame around the windows and would not stick back on very well.

When we replaced our manual pump with an electric Shurflo, I rerouted the hose from the back of the tank to the front of the tank (just behind the galley face plate) and into the compartment under the sink. The hose then runs back to the camper wall and into the pump. This makes it easy to uncouple the hose and drain the pump. In freezing weather, we have wrapped one of the chemical hand warmer packs around the pump with cloth while traveling (at night, he heater keeps us and the pump warm - love that heater).

Kodachrome's suggestion to pull the galley face plate off and insulate from the inside is a great idea.

[UglyScout]

Bringing this back from the way back.

I just did some Reflectix insulation in my camper based on this thread. I did the inside of the propane box and most of the outside of the box behind the cabinet wall. And the back wall under the sink. I did some window covers as well. I also plan to do a bunch on the plywood sections under the couches and the little turnbuckle doors.

I've used this stuff in the past in a car resto-mod project I did, for insulation and sound deadining. One thing I learned and did back then was to get some Peel & Seal butyl rubber self sticking weather stripping stuff and put it over the reflectix in any places that you will have a lot of wear and tear. The peel and seal stuff is sold in 6" (or 8"?) wide rolls and sticks to ANYTHING. I found it at home depot in the heating/AC section. There are a few types out there - one has a foil backing one does not. I used the non-foil backing stuff and it leaves you with a smooth, tough rubbery surface.

I need to find a link to it...

[Lighthawk]

Just used a roll of 24" reflectix and self adhesive velcro to line the pop up on my Hawk. Fits perfectly!
Just in time as we're heading out for a chilly October visit to the East Side tonite. Also stapled reflectix on ply sides and made flaps (secured with duct tape / velcro tabs) over the turnbuckle ports.

Like your idea, Scout, of covering the reflectix with butyl.
Sounds like a roofing product called Fortaflash which has sticky on one side and smooth, tough surface opposite. I used some to patch a hole in my roof, but that's another story.

Bringing this back from the way back.

I just did some Reflectix insulation in my camper based on this thread. I did the inside of the propane box and most of the outside of the box behind the cabinet wall. And the back wall under the sink. I did some window covers as well. I also plan to do a bunch on the plywood sections under the couches and the little turnbuckle doors.

I've used this stuff in the past in a car resto-mod project I did, for insulation and sound deadining. One thing I learned and did back then was to get some Peel & Seal butyl rubber self sticking weather stripping stuff and put it over the reflectix in any places that you will have a lot of wear and tear. The peel and seal stuff is sold in 6" (or 8"?) wide rolls and sticks to ANYTHING. I found it at home depot in the heating/AC section. There are a few types out there - one has a foil backing one does not. I used the non-foil backing stuff and it leaves you with a smooth, tough rubbery surface.

I need to find a link to it...

[ntsqd]

Another possible source?
http://www.farmtek.c...insulation.html

[Bseek]

There is also a peel and stick caulking product that is sort of like using a hot glue gun without the heat. It's the same stuff they use when they send you trinkets in the mail and there is a clear jelly holding it on.
Dap 18324 Seal 'N Peel Removable Caulk, 10.1-Ounce 4.50 through Amazon.

[Overland Hadley]

Another possible source?
http://www.farmtek.c...insulation.html

Thanks Thom.

[MarkBC]

Just used a roll of 24" reflectix and self adhesive velcro to line the pop up on my Hawk. Fits perfectly!
Just in time as we're heading out for a chilly October visit to the East Side tonite. Also stapled reflectix on ply sides and made flaps (secured with duct tape / velcro tabs) over the turnbuckle ports.

Lighthawk (or anyone else who's used Reflectix this way) - So you lined the soft-sides of the pop-up? How did that work out, heat-retaining-wise? Did it make a noticeable difference, you think?
More-detail question: Are you keeping it rolled up most of the time then putting in place (with the Velcro) as needed at night (or whenever) then re-rolling? Does it seem durable enough to withstand this kind of repeated handling?

I've been thinking about insulating the soft-sides of my camper for years (since I enjoy winter camping), using some kind of DIY approach that is much cheaper than the FWC Arctic-Pak. On cold nights I can put my hand next to the un-insulated soft-side and feel cold air roll down (not an air-leak, but chilling the air by conduction) the soft-wall.
Finally, last winter I got rolls of 1/2"-thick closed-cell polyethylene foam, and cut them to fit the soft-sides of the pop-up to be held in place (when needed) with self-adhesive Velcro. And that seemed to work in princple...however, the adhesive didn't stick well to the polyethylene foam (almost nothing will), so when I pulled the foam down in the morning the velcro strips stayed stuck together and detached from the foam. I guess I could sew the velcro to the foam, or use some other means of adhesion.

I've also heard from a FWC owner who used fleece/pile fabric (cut to fit the height/length of the soft-sides) as removable insulation for the soft-sides. It probably doesn't insulate as well as closed-cell foam or Reflectix, but it has the advantage of being much more flexible/foldable for easy storage.

Another idea I've had -- which I haven't tried but still haven't discarded -- is to apply insulation (closed-cell foam or possibly Refectix, say) to the outside of the soft-sides. There's a rim/overhang from the roof that's just the right size gap for the 1/2" closed-cell foam that I have. However, I haven't figured out a good way to (temporarily) hold the insulation in place. It would have to be more-secure than when mounting inside because it would need to withstand being blown by wind.
Why mount it outside? Because that way the soft-side is inside -- on the warm side of -- the insulation, instead of outside. And if the soft-side, particularly the inside, is warm then there should be less condensation on its inside.
I realize that a downside is that if it's snowy/rainy that I'll have wet foam to roll up and put away...but at least it won't be sopping wet 'cause it's closed-cell and can't soak up water.

Thoughts/feedback please?
Any ideas for how to attach -- securely-but-removably-- foam sheets or Reflectix to the outside? And/or experience with using Reflectix (or closed-cell foam) to insulate the inside of the soft-sides?
Thanks.

[n0izh]

We bought a used 1998 Granby that didn't have the velcro system to install the ArticPac. We live in Las Vegas so any
type of glue was out of the question. Nothing I've found yet can hold up to the heat without turning to goo. After our first trip in the snow at 9000 feet with the heater cycling quite a bit to maintain 70F we needed more insulation. We decided to try reflectix until we could figure a way to get an ArcticPac setup. We use one big piece for each side long enough to go about 6 inches behind the wood panels that lift the camper and cut outs for the windows. We hold them in place with spring loaded curtain rods (3 per side). The next cold trip we took a laser temp gauge with us to see if it really makes any difference. Outside temps were about 20F, inside air temps about 70F we measured the following:

Grey tent material ( no reflectix) 25F
Wood support at each end (no reflectix) 64F

Then installed the reflectix side pieces, no refectix covering the wood supports. We also let the temps stabilize about a hour...
Reflectrix 69F
Grey tent 25F (behind the reflectrix)
Wood support 66F

I was going to cut some reflectix for the wood ends as well, but didn't bother, it seems like there is already enough dead air space to block most of the cold. We also added a piece of 3/4 inch solid styrofoam under the mattress that is over the truck cab. If it gets really cold we can put the pieces that were cut out for the windows
behind the storm flaps, but haven't found we needed that yet. At night we open a turnbuckle hole about 1" and open the window near our heads just a bit let air move out. As a bonus the condensation problems we were having seems to have been solved!!! Hardly ever see any now...just a bit damp at the very front support where the aluminum is at the bottom. We are really pleased with how this worked for us, not as elegant as the ArticPac, but it grows on you. Great in the summer too, much cooler. It takes only a minute to roll up and put away.

John

[Barko1]

with the heater cycling quite a bit to maintain 70F

I figured you must be from Vegas, used to warm temps! I'm guessing not too many WTW types relax in such balmy conditions!.

But that is good information, thanks, and seems like the reflectix is doing a great job. One thing I found in my 98 Grandby was the open port for cold air to infiltrate around the furnace when it is not blowing. I solved that by removing the heater and using the Wave 3.