b team eagle camper wire job
#31
Posted 26 August 2007 - 07:16 PM
http://www.cabelas.c...=mesh&noImage=0
A little more than six bucks, but not too bad.
#32
Posted 27 August 2007 - 03:26 AM
It works great at night or shade. It gets cold enough to cycle on/off. In direct sunlight it's only good for around 10-15 F degrees below ambient and runs continuous.
With the top down it's like a meat locker! On a long drive when you just need to get some sleep and out of the heat it takes less than 5 minutes to open the window, put support in, a/c, and connect generator.
The EU 1000 runs the AC as long as it's not on the eco setting. The generator runs out of fuel after a few hours so you have to get up in the middle of the night and go pour gas in it and all over the ground lol.
A 2000W on the eco setting might be a better choice.
I'm happy with this project. It's nice to have the luxury of a bigger camper and still be able to take it out when i don't want the bulk of an air conditioner. Plus, unless you look real close at the camper you can't even see the window mount a/c.
#33
Posted 03 September 2007 - 05:12 AM
The EU1000 doesn't have enough power (900W) to run a small a/c and charge a camper battery or two. I have two deep cycle batteries and trying to charge them using the factory FWC converter and run the ac tripped the overload on the generator.
Under 2 gallons of fuel for a night or around $6 for a good nights sleep (+ cost of generator, a/c, and extra weight
#34
Posted 03 September 2007 - 05:47 PM
Have you tried the AC with the top up and some kind of insulation on the sideliner?
Thanks,
Sam
#35
Posted 03 September 2007 - 09:34 PM
Have you tried the AC with the top up and some kind of insulation on the sideliner?
Thanks,
Sam
No. I'm happy with the results as I mostly only use it at night to get some sleep. I'm sure some insulation would help as the sides get real hot. Getting the camper under a tarp might be easier and cheaper though.
#36
Posted 30 September 2007 - 05:30 AM
http://www.alliedele...6FEE7001F98617F
Simply drilled a hole in the stock FWC water/battery display and attached positive and neg wires to the correct wires on the factory wiring harness. It reads voltage when you press the monitor button. If i had better skills I'd solder it to the circuit board but I just used wire taps. Check it out.
#37
Posted 30 September 2007 - 03:18 PM
Mike
'08 ATC Cougar (built 06/16/08)
# of nights in camper: '08=15, '12=21,'13=16, '14=10, '15=52, '16=11, '17=20 (equals 145)
#38
Posted 30 September 2007 - 07:22 PM
Installed LCD digital voltage meter. Thought this would give a little more info on battery condition. Meter is a lascar electronics purchased from allied electronics
Simply drilled a hole in the stock FWC water/battery display and attached positive and neg wires to the correct wires on the factory wiring harness. It reads voltage when you press the monitor button. If i had better skills I'd solder it to the circuit board but I just used wire taps. Check it out.
Hi b team,
I have also used this volt meter. Have them on the dash and in the camper. Also installed them on two other FWC's. Just bent a peice of sheet metal and attached to the fuse pannel mounting.
Good placement you have found for yours. I wired the ground to a ground and the positive I tied in onto the output of the water pump switch. This way it will stay on longer so you won't have to keep pressing the monitor switch. The on-demand pumps don't run long and the non ones only run when the faucet swich is turned on with my Sure flo faucet (switch in the knob)
Patrick
2015 FWC Hawk Flatbed
#39
Posted 01 October 2007 - 10:09 PM
Craig K6JGV_________________________ 2004 2500 CTD 4X4 FWC HAWK 1960 CJ5
#40
Posted 02 October 2007 - 12:27 AM
Nice work, I'll also consider adding one.
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