315 replies to this topic

[hoyden]

what does it show when plugged in for a few days? and then right when you disconnect the shore power?

 

Yesterday, while plugged in, it was reading 14.2. This morning, plugged in still, it's reading 13.7.

 

I'll disconnect later today to go run some errands and will let you know what it shows.

[Beach]

Another good source of info is Handy Bob's Solar (Can't get it to hyperlink), just google it. For starters read; RV battery charging puzzle. I would check your battery manufacturers charging voltage specs, might be a bit higher than your equipment is set for.

[Cayuse]

Were you on flooded batteries before or AGM?

 

Not familiar with your controller but my Renogy has different modes for various battery types, might want to check and make sure you are set for the correct battery type.

[pvstoy]

14.2 volts is a good asorb number, then the inverter /charger meet the time and amps and dropped to float charge at 13.7 volts. The inverter will hold it there.

Your solar charge controller should be doing the same thing. In the morning if you are not seeing 14 plus voltage from your solar (bulk charge) then your solar controller is not working.

I can not stress highly enough to have a battery monitor and understand the numbers it provides. It is information to tell you the health of your batteries and quickly see what is wrong or right in your system.

A solar controller with Bluetooth I have found to be a great tool to customize charge levels to match the batteries manufactures. Having Bluetooth to monitor it on a device has been handy.

In your system I would question if you are using more watts then the solar can put back in so you are getting behind daily. A battery monitor will record this for you.

Second I question your solar system as maybe your controller is not working or not matched to effectively charge your batteries you have.

Other factors could be the location of the controller to the batteries, maybe not sensing temperature of the battery etc.. wiring to the battery from the controller, all positive and negative connection proper and tight.

You could have a series of things that are not as good as they could be all compounding to make it worse. It is hard to see what you have by not seeing it and touching it, so very hard to suggest a change for you.

[hoyden]

They were AGM before, and AGM now.

It is indeed on the correct setting on the controller, Cayuse.

 

My original controller went bad, and this is the second one installed by AT.

When I took possession of my new Fleet, the solar had not been hooked up. I pointed this out, and they did a rush job to get it set up. Since I've had issues since the beginning, I do wonder if they mis-wired it somewhere.

 

Which battery monitor? Does the controller not do that?

Edited by hoyden, 12 September 2018 - 05:23 PM.

[Beach]

Can you provide the battery manufacturer and battery size/rating.

[pvstoy]

I like the Victron battery monitors and got the newer one with bluetooth. There are other brands out there but you need one with a shunt.

 

The controller is good to show watts or amps currently producing and heading to the battery.  Where a a battery monitor will give you what  / how much has been used and how much has gotten into the battery.

 

A good watch and read is the links in my post about why you may not be getting good charge from your alternator while driving...

 http://www.wanderthe...rom-expoportal/

Edited by pvstoy, 12 September 2018 - 07:24 PM.

[Vic Harder]

I have a Victron as well, very cool tool.  Yes it is pricey, but much cheaper than constantly buying new batteries.  

 

Love that video that pvstoy linked too.  Yes it is a rant, but the guy is good at clarifying the difficulties in getting a good charge from the alternator.

[hoyden]

Anyone have a wiring diagram for Fleet solar set up (dual battery)?

[craig333]

Check the voltage at the terminals from the panels. It should be higher than the battery side. Typically 17-21 depending on your panels. If its not you may have a bad wire, not uncommon for the wires behind the lift panels to break after repeated flexing.