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Auxiliary or Driving Lights Mounted to Cabover Overhang?


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#51 rando

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Posted 27 January 2019 - 03:35 PM

Rando

 

So looking at my 2012 Dodge Ram I have H11 low beams and are 55 watts,  You say I can put in H9 and they are 65 watts.  Is 10 watts a big enough difference that will be noticeable while driving?  As it is now low beams are hardly usable driving, just not enough light to see down the road at highway speeds.  Need to use high beams to feel safe.

 

On the Ram it takes a bit of effort to change bulbs as you have to pull the whole light assemble out to get to the bulbs.  Good to know options to make it better, brighter & safer.

 

It is not so much the extra 10W, but that the bulb is more efficient at the expense of a slightly reduced life time.  A standard H11 is 1250 lumens while an H9 is 2100 lumens. 

 

However, you should do some research into your particular application before making the swap.  The other difference between the bulbs is that an H11 has a glare cap (the end of the bulb is blacked out) whereas the H9 doesn't.  In some headlights, primarily projector types, glare is controlled by the optical design not the glare cap, so using a bulb without a glare cap won't change things.   If you have older reflector type headlights, they may require the glare cap to keep the stray light under control. 

 

If you have reflector type low beams, it would be safer (albeit more expensive) to buy higher brightness H11 bulbs such as these:

https://smile.amazon...n/dp/B00U1OIESK

 

I think these produce 1850 lumens, so somewhere between normal H11 and H9s. 


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#52 Vic Harder

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Posted 27 January 2019 - 07:26 PM

for sure. and get them aimed right too!
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#53 pvstoy

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Posted 27 January 2019 - 08:29 PM

Thanks Rando for more explanation.

 

On the 2012 Ram the low beam has a hood in the housing that covers the end of the inserted bulb.  So I should be good to get the un-shielded bulb?  Picture attached.

 

I like the thought to change to 2100 lumens and 65 watts. Shorter life hours should still last a long time as most of the driving is done during the day.  Areas of road sections where the headlights need to be turned on I can use the running light with the fog lights without low beams to further save hours on the bulb. 

 

Ram list #9005 for the high beam bulb at 65 watts, maybe find a higher output for these while the headlight assembly is removed. But I do worry some about the small gauge wire that is used to go higher output. 

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IMAG1240-a.jpg

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IMAG1243-a.jpg


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#54 rando

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Posted 28 January 2019 - 02:52 AM

It will probably be fine with the built in glare caps - but I don't really know.   I am not at all familiar with those headlights.   One way to get fairly good sense is to change one side then go park 25' or so from a light colored wall (or your garage door) and make sure the pattern is the same on both sides. 

 

My old Landcruiser had 9005 bulbs, and the upgrade for those was 9011 HIR1 bulbs:

The minor modification required is described here:

https://store.candle.../mohirbuba.html

 

But you can also buy the bulbs on Amazon:

https://smile.amazon...t/dp/B00480J5CW


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#55 pvstoy

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Posted 28 January 2019 - 04:29 AM

Rando... Great information!!  Thank you for taking the time to share the information and links provided.  


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#56 So Cal Adventurer

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Posted 13 February 2019 - 08:56 AM

You can also look at ditch lights,.

 

Hahahaha!  This guy...  :P


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#57 ntsqd

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Posted 14 February 2019 - 04:26 AM

Something that I ran into running the "BriteBox" on our '95 CTD is that the housings are plastic. With both elements lit in high beam they melted one of the headlights. The std pitiful 9004 used in our truck is only 45w/65w, so 100w over say less than 10 hours melted the housing. This probably more wattage than is being discussed, but I thought that I'd mention this possibility.

 

Something that came out of buying the new to us 9.5' Hallmark is that it weighs considerably more than our old 6.5' Phoenix. On the drive home it raised the headlights. I did not get flashed by on-coming and the difference in usable light was significant. On the Dodges I'd suggest experimenting with a higher than might be normal light adjustment. See if you can get more light where its useful w/o irritating on-coming drivers.


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#58 Bombsight

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Posted 14 February 2019 - 05:22 PM

Been battling myself as to where to mount some Baja Designs on my rig. I think above the cab might make for a lot of glare so I'm trying to figure out a way to mount them up front without a bull bar. I'd like to keep the aerodynamics as close to "factory" as possible.


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#59 pvstoy

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Posted 14 February 2019 - 07:02 PM

Thanks for the tip Thom.  


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#60 Vic Harder

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Posted 14 February 2019 - 07:26 PM

Been battling myself as to where to mount some Baja Designs on my rig. I think above the cab might make for a lot of glare so I'm trying to figure out a way to mount them up front without a bull bar. I'd like to keep the aerodynamics as close to "factory" as possible.

Are you open to drilling holes in your bumper?  I mounted some 9' lights to a Dodge Ram 1500 I had.  There was a plastic area between the metal bumper that was accessible and easier to drill through


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