52 replies to this topic

[rubberlegs]

Suggestion: don't rely on solar since there's not enough sun in your situation, instead go for a small generator. It ought to cost a lot less. I've never used one, but know that they can deliver power nicely. Here's an example, but others can recommend a more appropriate one: 

 

Mold may also be caused by the shower, since there will be a lot of moisture in the camper. If you can dry it out during the work day, like opening the top vents (assuming no rain), that might help. I use a dehumidifier at home. Lots of posts about condensation on this forum.

[Rogue Juan]

Mold came from the leaky seals, as the cushions were soaked after my 2 & 1/2 hour drive in a hellacious storm. I dried as best I could with open vents the next morning. FWC replaced the seals, as there was a leak, after just a 1/2 hour to their shop in a mild storm. The leaky shower didn't help matters either.

[Trailbob]

There is some great advice already listed.  I also have a 160W Zamp panel, with a Bogart PWM SC-2030 controller and Trimetric battery monitor.  Unless I'm in the forest, or a snow storm, I rarely (if ever) have trouble keeping the batteries (two group 24 12v) at a reasonable level.  My fridge is propane, but I often bring an ARB 12v fridge as well.

 

As others have mentioned, you would be well served by a quality battery monitor that measures amps in and out, and gives the state of charge as a %.  That way you will know if your solar is working properly, and can accurately determine what is using your power.  I have been very happy with the Trimetric, but Victron also has a very strong following.  

 

Personally, I would install a battery monitor before investing in either more solar or more batteries.

[Bwht4x4]

Thank you all for your prompt input.
As I stated before, I am using a Zamp ZS-30 solar charge controller with 1-160 watt Zamp solar panel with 2-12 volt AGM batteries (stock at the time from FWC). The only power draws are the Isotherm 85 fridge on a 2 setting (drawing 0.8 amps according to the controller during the day), the water pump for a 5 minute shower(turning it off while I lather) and the furnace set to 60° with a insulation kit from FWC. Daytime temperatures are in the low 60° with night time temps of around 35°. I've resorted to using a rechargeable camp light for lighting & a power brick to charge my phone that I charge at work. FWC stated that they have switched to the Overland kit because they found it to be more efficient in overcast conditions. Their customer service sucks. The system they installed when I took delivery a little less than a year ago is inefficient in overcast conditions by their own admission. They are switching to the Overland kit on all new campers. Now they want to charge me $1155 to "upgrade" the solar kit & $700 to "upgrade" the batteries. When the warranty runs out in less than 2 weeks, I plan to upgrade on my own.

When I state that I go off grid for 6 days at time, I mean I am traveling 2&1/2 hours to the Silicon Valley to work for 17 hour days (sometimes), where I can't afford to live. Because I have to park my FWC in public parking lots that homeless people sometimes frequent while I work, a portable solar panel is likely to be stolen. While I sleep, I park at Park & Rides, so nowhere is show power an option. Once I am in San Jose, most drives consist of 5 to 10 minutes charging the batteries via my Tacoma.

From the valuable input that all of you have given me, I am trying to put together the most efficient solar system that I can. The more input the better. Thanks again, Juan

 

Juan,

 

You basically have the exact same set up as I have on my 2013 Hawk.  I've never had any issues like you mentioned.  I'd get some sort of battery monitor before you spend a ton of money on solar upgrades.

[So Cal Adventurer]

The ISOTHERM is horribly inefficient (compared to the ARB) and sucks a lot of power.

 

I ran my 65qt ARB non stop for over 2 years with a single 100 watt panel with not a single glitch.

 

I now run the ARB in the truck and the ISOTHERM in the camper and have (2) 175 Watt Panels up top.

 

I want my beer COLD so i keep the ISOTHERM on the 7 setting and even on a sunny day, the 350 watts of solar "keep up" but that's about it.

 

If i were to do it all over again, i would of opted to have storage where the ISOTHERM sits and just installed a second ARB.

 

My .02

[rando]

I wonder if there is something up with your Isotherm?   My Isotherm 65 seems to draw around 18-20Ah a day in normal summers day, and maybe as much as 30Ah in the Utah desert (100F). My 150W panel has no issues keeping up.     This is about the same as my previous ARB.  While the Isotherm is probably slightly less efficient, because the coils are dumping the heat outside and not into the already baking hot car, it does about the same as the ARB.  I also find the front loader to be so much more convenient than the chest style fridges and wouldn't go back even if there were an efficiency benefit. 

Edited by rando, 13 February 2019 - 02:49 PM.

[muttmaster]

I like my Zamp 160 watts, wish I have the newer Overland, but I always want newer, better, bigger.
I like 50 degree in my camper, and not freezing 10 degree. I wish it is 70 degree, and I am working on that. If 50F is too cold, stay home.

[Batman]

Seems like your cheapest solution would be to find some place to plug into shore power during the day (to top off the batteries) while you're working.

[Rogue Juan]

Rando, it's only on overcast or rainy days that the stock 160 watt Zamp set up has trouble keeping up. After 3 days, the batteries get too low.

Batman, none of the public lots I park at, while working, have shore power.

[Vic Harder]

Rando, it's only on overcast or rainy days that the stock 160 watt Zamp set up has trouble keeping up. After 3 days, the batteries get too low.

Batman, none of the public lots I park at, while working, have shore power.

If no sun, very little power will come from a solar array, no matter how large.  More AH capacity will tide you over until sunshine happens, but then you have to recover lots, and fast - this is when a big array helps.

 

No shore power, then a generator is a good plan... or how about finding a paid parking spot with power?  That would be cheaper than upgrading your system.