94 replies to this topic

[ShopK33per]

Hopping into the conversation after a few days in the Cascades. 

 

Nighttime low was 10-15 degrees. 

 

Heater always on (45 degrees at night and 60 during the day). 

 

While I used the grey water outlet to drain some water after cooking, I had my tanks all winterized....

 

Damn @Wicked1 yeah I guess you could wire heaters to all of your pipes... that would do it. 

 

Since we already are dealing with a grey water tank to move around, I've been using a standard 5 gallon jug for water during winter adventures, as I care more about the hot water than using the normal tank..  but I think I'm afraid of ruining the water heater and then having to deal with that ha! 

 

I read through and didn't hear anyone talking about insulating windows or even the door area, which have huge heat loss. 

 

Any window / door insulation mods?

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[wicked1]

Any window / door insulation mods?

Yes.  I put foam insulation in my cabinets, and made covers for my windows.  Including the door window. 
I simply cut foam insulation boards from the hardware store, to the sizes needed to cover the windows.  Taped the edges to stop the foam from crumbling.  And currently, I tape them in place.   My first idea was magnets, holding them to the window frame screws.  It held them, but wasn't air tight and cold air was pouring in around them.  Velcro all the way around the edges might be good enough.  But tape is working well for now.  I leave them installed all winter. 

[Wandering Sagebrush]

Yes.  I put foam insulation in my cabinets, and made covers for my windows.  Including the door window. 
I simply cut foam insulation boards from the hardware store, to the sizes needed to cover the windows.  Taped the edges to stop the foam from crumbling.  And currently, I tape them in place.   My first idea was magnets, holding them to the window frame screws.  It held them, but wasn't air tight and cold air was pouring in around them.  Velcro all the way around the edges might be good enough.  But tape is working well for now.  I leave them installed all winter. 

What I did on the Bobcat was to use canvas snaps that screw into the window and door frames.  Put a little petroleum jelly or silicon grease on the female side to help them fasten/unfasten.  It works for curtains and insulation.

[ShopK33per]

What I did on the Bobcat was to use canvas snaps that screw into the window and door frames.  Put a little petroleum jelly or silicon grease on the female side to help them fasten/unfasten.  It works for curtains and insulation.

 

And the cold air leakage isn't that bad?

[Wandering Sagebrush]

It’s not too bad at all.  You can also use som construction foam, then use the snap curtains to hold it in place to make it even better.

[Jsoboti]

I cut reflectix about 1/8-1/4 inch larger than the windows, its the perfect thickness to seat itself inside the window frame and provides a nice seal. I've been using this method successfully for two winters and it helps enormously. I also have recently added reflectix down lower, covering the full span of the (lower bulkhead?) ie. where access doors are for the truck bed mounting hooks. 

 

Great Success! 

[camsf]

I replaced an old Eagle with a '20 Fleet last year that has all the plumbing (hot water, shower etc). I never thought about winterizing on the Eagle as it had so little plumbing and no PVC. I was down to -5 in the old Rig. So of course didn't think about it with the Fleet until I got onto the CO/WY border heading to Summit County from SLC in early Jan. Pulled over around 11pm and it was -15 and still falling. Everything froze solid. Bundled up overnight and then headed to Winter Park. Finally unfroze when I came into the San Juans and the 2 PVC distribution valves both cracked. Easy replacement and I added insulation around those and everywhere else I could as well. Will winterize before heading back to Colorado next year. Insulation pics in link

 

https://lightroom.ad...fe227e4032aa752

Edited by camsf, 24 March 2022 - 05:07 PM.

[ckent323]

I have a concept not yet fully implemented to make a canvas skirt that snaps to the outside of the popup fabric at the roof and camper body (some camper trim screws replaced with screw in snaps of same shank and thread size).   The canvas would have a pocket that holds insulating material, reflectix or whatever.

It is somewhat bulky and needs to be removed and stowed before moving the camper.  My estimates suggest it can all be folded or rolled up and placed in the space between the counter and the roll over couch.

I have the snaps in place and tried a couple of 42" wide x 10 foot canvas pieces that local restaurant put up in winter to allow block wind and allow outside dining (I bought as surplus when they closed 2 years ago).  The canvas I have does not have the pockets but it does create a dead air space between the outside of the popup material and the inside of the snap on canvas.  However, no actual before and after test data with a thermometer yet.

An added benefit of this approach is that it should reduce or eliminate condensation on the inside of the camper pop up material.  In summer it should help cut down on heating (the solar panels on the roof help cut down heating too).

Obviously the downsides are needing to carry the wrap around skirt and put it on and take it off when ever setting up or moving the camper.

Edited by ckent323, 25 March 2022 - 03:32 AM.

[Jsoboti]

Great idea ckent, would love to see what you come up with!

 

This could also act as exterior storm windows. I get a lot of snow stuck in between the mesh screen layer and the clear window layer during windy snow storms which then melts and can lead to water getting inside. One of my biggest frustrations so far is the lack of a storm window, which ive seen on other camper brands. 

Edited by Jsoboti, 25 March 2022 - 05:20 PM.

[wicked1]

Like an easy to set up version of this?

 

Edited by wicked1, 25 March 2022 - 08:18 PM.