3 replies to this topic

[rustytinbender]

I currently have a 2011 Chevy with a 2011 Hawk on the back that I bought used in 2014. Using what I learned following this forum I installed solar on the roof, a battery monitor, and 2 - 75 amp hour batteries. A couple years later i upgraded my wiring from the truck to 8ga and installed a Blue Sea ML-ACR Relay.

 

For the Lithium I would get a 100 amp hour battery. For charging at home I have an Iota DLS 30 with a plug in IQ4 charge controller, looks like I can swap out the IQ4 for one that is better for lithium. My battery monitor is the Tri-Metric TM-2030 with the SC-2030 Solar Charger. Looking on their website I found the settings for lithium so that's figured out. 

 

My concern is charging from the truck, living in Wisconsin and camping during spring and fall I need to be able to charge from the truck when I am driving. My Chevy has the towing button and when you press that the alternator charging stays at 14.6 amps, this has worked out very well.

 

My new truck is a Ford F-150 with the 2.7 Ecoboost engine. I ordered it with the payload package which increases the cargo capacity to 2,165 lbs, I plan to upgade to E-rated tires but am hoping I won't need to do much else except for how I will charge from the truck.

 

I have been very impressed with the knowledge and experience in these upgrades that are on these forums. My new ford has the trailer tow package, does anyone know if that keeps the alternator at a higher amperage like my 2011 Chevy? If so I may be able to charge with my current setup. Otherwise I plan to upgrade to a Victron Orion DCDC Charger, either the 12/12 18 or 12/12 30. If i did this would my current 8ga wiring be adequate? 

 

Thanks for any help and advice.

[rando]

You may want to wait until you have the truck and batteries and see how they work together before making any modifications.  Depending on the alternator output voltage, and the total resistance in your wiring you may or may not get sufficient charge to the battery with the system as is.  

 

If you aren't getting enough charge, then a DC-DC charger will do the trick, either the 12/12 18 or the 12/12 30 should work with 8AWG, but you may need to do some careful adjustment of the engine running detect parameters to compensate for voltage drop, particularly with the 12/12 30.

[Vic Harder]

+1 to what rando said.  Wait and see.  

 

I wonder if you can clarify something... you said that your existing truck can keep the alternator outputting 14.6A.   Did you mean Volts?  That would make more sense to me.

[rustytinbender]

Rando and Vic, thanks for the responses and Vic you are correct, I meant to say 14.6 volts.