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Bags Or Springs


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#31 Bajaxplorer

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Posted 03 July 2011 - 07:22 PM

I know this is an old post, but someone may be able to use this info.
I carried a lot of weight on my old 2002 Toyota Tacoma DC. One mod was frame reinforcement above the rear axles. DeMello in Orange County has been making plates that are welded to the frame for years. Attaching pix of the plate on my old Tacoma.
BXDeMello.JPG IMG_1463x.jpg
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#32 Cort

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Posted 03 July 2011 - 11:56 PM

don't mess around with the bags...save yourself the trouble and just get the springs. National or Deaver or others can hook you up just fine. Nothing to break or inflate. I guess I should admit I still do have my bags but I only use them for load leveling and ride perfection but they are completely unnecessary to carry the load.

Cort
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#33 generubin

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Posted 04 July 2011 - 01:29 AM

When I read a thread like this one, I am soooooooooo glad I have a 3/4 ton diesel. My suspension is completely stock, my truck doesn't even feel the camper plus I get 19 to 21 mpg. Top that off with I get near 700 miles on a tank and I have tons of space. At some point you guys should do the math and consider stepping up.

Gene
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#34 Barko1

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Posted 04 July 2011 - 01:45 AM

don't mess around with the bags...save yourself the trouble and just get the springs. National or Deaver or others can hook you up just fine. Nothing to break or inflate. I guess I should admit I still do have my bags but I only use them for load leveling and ride perfection but they are completely unnecessary to carry the load.

Cort


On the other hand get the bags :D I have bags on my F150 where they help leveling and stop sag if I am carrying a lot. I also have them on the F250 where as Cort said they are again good for leveling but aren't needed for the load. I run stock rear springs and everything is fine with a loaded Grandby and a few hundred #'s of hitch weight. Never had a problem, they are just a sturdy bag and a line with a schraeder valve. Being able to inflate, or having to inflate, is a plus to me. If you never vary your weight it may not matter.
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Granby on an F250 in S. NM

#35 MidnightRider

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Posted 08 July 2011 - 01:36 AM

For those of you who are using Ride-Rite air bags, I have a tale to tell...

I have an Eagle on my 2002 Tacoma 4x4 with ride-rite airbags. A few weeks ago I replaced the front brake pads. While I was at it I decided to check the rear brake shoes. I jacked up the rear axle and took both tires off. While I was working on the shoes/drums I noticed something disturbing; the airbag on the right side didn't look right. The top mount was crooked; it was clearly different than when I mounted the airbags only 6 months earlier.



As I looked closer at the problem my reaction went from one of curiosity to one of great concern. Not only was the airbag mounting bracket bent, but it had also managed to bend the frame as well! The whole mounting area was starting to twist and bend. Further inspection revealed that both side had similar problems, although the right side was worse than the left.



I decided to remove the camper(which I normally leave on) and to fix the problem before going on any more trips. Luckily, my friend Milt builds cars from scratch and is an expert on frames and welding. Looking at the problem together we decided that there were two basic issues:

1) The frame lacked adequate blocking where the airbag brackets were mounted. Without this blocking the frame simply could not handle the load without bending. (The frame steel is surprisingly thin, all areas needing strength need to be reinforced, this can be seen at other areas of the frame.)

2) The design of the brackets themselves have some issues. They only have one true attachment point (two bolts, but one small area), and that is on the side. The brackets provide no lateral attachment, and they span a relatively long distance given the steel and forces involved.

We decided that the solution was to reinforce the frame using blocking and then to weld the brackets in-place. The welding needed to include more attachment points so as to eliminate lateral creep and to reinforce the relatively long span. Milt cut the blocking and reinforcing for the brackets from steel stock and then welded everything in-place.



I'm certainly hoping that this does the trick and that I have no further problems with these mounts or the frame. Other than this mounting problem I've been very happy with the airbags; they do a great job leveling the load and restoring handling to the truck.

Good luck, and keep wandering the west...

-Wes


I had a welder friend of mine do the exact same thing to my Tacoma. At least I know this part of the truck will never bend again. He also added a few gussets at other vunerable areas of the frame.
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#36 BSS

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Posted 15 July 2011 - 05:39 PM

At some point you guys should do the math and consider stepping up.



I have. And aside from the $50,000 pickup truck, it makes a lot of sense.
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#37 generubin

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Posted 15 July 2011 - 05:52 PM

I have. And aside from the $50,000 pickup truck, it makes a lot of sense.

It was way back in 2006, but my Dodge 2500, manual trans, 4x4, Cummins Diesel was only $32,000 out the door (Jay got his with automatic at a little less!). I got all the good stuff meaning crank windows, rubber floor you can hose out, steel wheels that you can actually change a tire on in the wilds. If you get the basic "work truck" you save tons of money.

I have done zero mods to the truck. It doesn't drop 1/2 inch with the camper and you can even feel it is there. I just came back from an 1800 mile trip to Hart Mountain and Sheldon NWR getting 18 to 19 mpg.
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From Baja to the Arctic and all places between!

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Dodge 4x4 2500 Cummins, 6 spd manual, ATC Ocelot Shell. Tesla Model S, 85KWH, 2018 Tesla Model 3 (3 of them!!)


#38 BSS

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Posted 15 July 2011 - 06:14 PM

I admit, I'm envious of the extra power and elbow room. It's always in the back of my mind.

Sounds like a great trip.
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