19 replies to this topic

[Vic Harder]

I’m probably right there with you Austin, on daily usage when camping with the wife.

I talked it over with her and she suggested “I do it right”.

So with that:
1. Lifepo 100 amp probably add a second within a month or 2 if I like the setup.
2. Victron smart Dc-Dc 30a isolated
3. 6ga from truck to charger. breaker at each end.
4. Anderson connector in bed
5. Victron shunt smart batt monitor.
6. Progressive International PD9130LV AC/DC for shore power.

I will charge from truck during travel, and my 200w suitcase or 1000w genset as needed when stationary.

I’ve read the DC-DC can run hot. Where is best place to mount in a side dinette HAWK?

Is the PD9130LV a drop in replacement for the IOTA/IQ4?

I guess I can figure out how to bring wiring in. Not sure what to do about camper lights yet…. which have to work for VA safety.

Sounds pretty good.  You don't need the isolated version of the DCDC, it will work though.  Isolated is mostly for marine applications. 

I prefer the victron ac/dc chargers with bluetooth for ease of configuration and compatibility.  Smaller too!  PD unit will work, but not any better than the IOTA if you have the right IQ4 dongle for LiFePo4.  

Yes, the DCDC runs hot.  I added a fan on a 45*C thermistor switch to my setup.  

 

The existing camper wiring should have a separate wire for the running lights, plus _ve & +ve wires for charging.  So you can disconnect the existing +v & -ve wires and replace with the separate run of 6AWG you are doing.

 

I hope that helps.

[Jollyrogers]

Sounds pretty good. You don't need the isolated version of the DCDC, it will work though. Isolated is mostly for marine applications.
I prefer the victron ac/dc chargers with bluetooth for ease of configuration and compatibility. Smaller too! PD unit will work, but not any better than the IOTA if you have the right IQ4 dongle for LiFePo4.
Yes, the DCDC runs hot. I added a fan on a 45*C thermistor switch to my setup.

The existing camper wiring should have a separate wire for the running lights, plus _ve & +ve wires for charging. So you can disconnect the existing +v & -ve wires and replace with the separate run of 6AWG you are doing.

I hope that helps.

Thank you all for the replies.

I was just looking at isolated vs non-isolated. I think there is a thread here somewhere. I’ll go non-isolated if that will work ok with my Hawk.

My IOTA/IQ4 is the built to in IQ4 model. It doesn’t have a dongle, so don’t think I can switch to the LifePo one. Hence why I was going to go PD. I need/want to be able to use my genset to top off as we camp a lot in forested areas, and any sun is unlikely. My solar gets used at house or music festivals mostly.

[Jon R]

I suspect there are at least 10 installations of the non-isolated Victron DC to DC chargers on these campers for every one installation of an isolated charger. Either will work fine as Vic said.

I’m one who chose to use an isolated charger because I wanted to keep my camper ground and truck ground isolated. This was not because it would change anything about normal operation, but instead because I did not want a short to camper structure of the 120 volt AC system hot or neutral wires, or a fault in campground shore power wiring, to have the potential to damage my truck’s electrical system or computers by connecting 120 VAC to the truck ground.

In hindsight, since I now know that I never connect to shore power away from home and only rarely connect at home, my concern about that possible type of failure is now far less than it was at the time I was designing my electrical power system.

[Jollyrogers]

I got my SOK battery and the PD9130-LV in, and installed. The battery charged to 100%. The bluetooth is ok, and tells me what the BMS is doing, and can see current load or charge current and voltages , SOC, temps, cell status etc. Kinda cool that bluetooth goes to sleep, and wakes if there is load/charge applied.

So I know I will be pulling the battery separator. My next phase is 12|12 DC-DC 30amp, wiring to truck, and a battery monitor. I started measuring the layout. My side dinette Hawk has the battery “compartment” under fwd/passenger side seat. There is just enough room to add a second SOK 100ah, with very little room for side to side error/movement.

Anyways where in the heck are FWC peeps mounting the DC/DC charger???????????

There is not enough room where the isolator was. Looks like I could lower the false shelf above the battery “compartment” 2” and I would have just enough on the wall above it, or I could mount in the battery compartment, but then potentially no room for a 2nd battery if I want to go there after assessment of performance.

[Jollyrogers]

So I found a picture of a KP install with BB batteries. I measured and my SOKs (if doubled) won’t fit like this, they have to go fore/aft. Regardless, I’ll make it work and just remove the false shelf and repurpose the 1x1s to hold things down similar to photo.

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[rubberlegs]

We also have an SOK battery. It's great -- except for the bluetooth "SOC" (state of charge). The way they made it, it doesn't work. But I heard they fixed that. Hope you got the fixed battery management system.

 

Our solution was to get a coulomb counter - this one - https://www.amazon.c...e/dp/B07FGFFHC6

[Jollyrogers]

My bluetooth from the BMS seems to be working ok so far. They revised the BMS earlier this year if I am correct from reading their FAQ/forum.

So parts to wire to truck will be here today and tomorrow.

I am trying to figure out where I will bring the 6ga wiring into the camper and route to battery. Camper is on truck, but I can take off if I absolutely have to.

It looks like I have to take my cabinets apart to get to the factory entry if I want to route the same way. What a puzzle that is.

How have people been bringing in the truck connections???

Edited by Jollyrogers, 21 July 2023 - 10:57 AM.

[Jollyrogers]

Ok, well it’s is mostly installed. I pulled the cabinet apart of forward area below HW heater to access where factory wire came in. Pretty easy actually. Used a drill and accessed through port hole, and had wife set the bit, and I drilled through. It was close to where I wanted it.

My Victron DCDC charger had obviously been dropped and the case had damage. So returned it, and new one will be here tomorrow. I used the broke one to mock things up, so just have to drop the new one in and connect to my battery. Have just enough space to add another 100ah if I need it.

I took no pics during install, but could if someone is interested.

Appreciate the help all. Will dry run it some this week, but real test will be camping in WV next weekend for a week. Solar, genset, and truck charging will be nice.

Edited by Jollyrogers, 22 July 2023 - 11:07 PM.

[Jsoboti]

Pics please! particularly of the DC-DC install. 

[Jollyrogers]

@Jsoboti, any particular detail you want pics of for the DCDC install? I can grab pics later for you.

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