43 replies to this topic

[Vic Harder]

Thanks for the encouragement Bill.  I'm thinking it will be pretty simple to do with a couple of T's and a check flow valve.  Stay tuned

[RovingFalconer]

Great thread. Maybe one of you can help me out? Just bought an eagle model and the water tank leaks at the very bottom where the draincock attaches to it. It leaks because the metal draincock is loose and can easily be pulled out by hand. Can anyone tell me how this piece is supposed to secure up inside to the bottom of the fresh water tank? My draincock is not threaded. It has a flanged metal “male” post that sticks up into the “female” white plastic opening of the water tank. Not sure if my male or female part is stripped...? Pics attached (it’s messy because I tried to silicone it...)

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[Andy Douglass]

The fitting on the loose pipe looks like a "barbed" fitting, which is meant to slide into flexible pipe/hose and be secured with a hose clamp. Not sure how that would work with the fittings on the tank. It looks pretty dirty. If it was my water supply, I might want to pull the tank out if possible and make sure none of that gunk has made its way into the tank. Might be some associated rot issues that you could address at the same time.

[PaulT]

It may be that is a male Milton coupler like that used on the external shower hose.

These say for air: https://www.amazon.c...s/dp/B073W932P4

Many here
https://www.grainger.../ecatalog/N-o8q

Paul

[XJINTX]

Another idea, if you have an outside shower there are attachments. I have a squiggly thing that plugs in that I can bend or have straight. We only touch the fresh water spigot to drain the tank.

John, I'm interested in that "Squiggly Thing" have a pic and maybe source?

[kmcintyre]

When I gutted and replaced my countertop on my older Eagle, I saw how the water tank is installed in that space.  I'd say it's quite a job to get the countertop off for access to the tank but might be worth it to fix it "right".  You should be able to get the counter off w/o any damage but if your counter is like mine was, you might think about replacing it too.  Lots of screws and brackets, some hidden along the back but not terrible to get to them (maybe a few).

[Flyfisher]

My 2 cents: Took the plastic petcock apart, drilled out the opening in the part that turns, added some silicone grease, and found a steel roll pin (it has a slit along one side) at the hardware store and added that to the top of the part that turns. Works great!

[PackRat]

With regard to the OP's question, I think that drain fitting assembly has been "fixed" once before, maybe twice. Unfortunately there may have originally been some threads in the tank itself that are stripped out or otherwise not functioning and possibly the entire fitting you show may not be the original one anyway....

 

Call up the mfger of your camper and send them this pic and the year and model and maybe even the unit number and they will be able to answer the right question which is "Is this the original drain fitting for my (year/model) camper and how was it originally attached to the tank".

 

I get a feeling there are soe parts missing, but from the look of the damaged hex fittings, this has been an issue for some time which wasn't repaired before either.

[PackRat]

That would be 2002tacoma's question!

[Durango1]

I just did this modification to my drain to keep the rinse water from splashing down on the under bed box. (For travel I tuck the hose behind the rub rail. Soap lives in the cross box to the left.)

 

However, I'd feel a lot better about using this valve daily for hand washing if it was sturdy metal construction. FWC upgraded lots of things in the last few years- why not this poor little 'orphaned valve'?

Edited by Durango1, 13 August 2018 - 06:01 AM.