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SurePower 1314/1315 vs. "battery switch"


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#11 craig333

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Posted 07 October 2010 - 11:32 PM

Natjwest, I use nothing more than a Perko marine battery combiner switch in the camper.I use the simple Perko switch from West Marine part # 281469 for mine. It has 4 positions: Battery 1, Battery 2, Both, Off. This allows me to run the camper on a combo of the truck and camper batteries, camper battery only, or truck battery only. When switch is in the “Both” mode then the truck and camper batteries are in parallel, and, of course the camper batteries help start the truck. I generally leave everything in parallel on “Both” setting. If you really want the camper battery to help start the truck, then you’ll need heavy cable from the truck batteries back to the camper.

There’s a 10 amp multi stage marine battery charger in the camper. When I’m hooked to shore power everything is getting topped off by the charger. I ordered a 100 watt solar panel (http://www.amsolar.com/rv100.html) but haven't installed it yet. I'll probably just run the camper on it's own batteries once the solar is installed.
Even more confused now ?


I run mine the exact same way. Been working perfectly for six years now. And its only 10 guage wire to the camper from the truck.
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#12 natjwest

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Posted 08 October 2010 - 04:12 AM

I run mine the exact same way. Been working perfectly for six years now. And its only 10 guage wire to the camper from the truck.

Thanks, craig. It's good to hear 10 ga is working for you. I'd rather not mess with 4 or less.
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#13 pods8

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Posted 08 October 2010 - 02:08 PM

I run mine the exact same way. Been working perfectly for six years now. And its only 10 guage wire to the camper from the truck.


What type of battery are you running in your truck and how often (if at all) have you had to replace it?

I just don't see anything good coming out of running a truck starting battery in parallel with camper deep cycles. The normal truck battery isn't made for deep cycle use. Now if you're running optimas or something in the truck they are built a bit more for that service.
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#14 HERR42

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Posted 08 October 2010 - 04:19 PM

What type of battery are you running in your truck and how often (if at all) have you had to replace it?

I just don't see anything good coming out of running a truck starting battery in parallel with camper deep cycles. The normal truck battery isn't made for deep cycle use. Now if you're running optimas or something in the truck they are built a bit more for that service.



and i dont understand how the wiring doesnt fry when you hit the starter....with the camper in parallel.
luck?
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#15 UglyScout

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Posted 08 October 2010 - 04:28 PM

and i dont understand how the wiring doesnt fry when you hit the starter....with the camper in parallel.
luck?


I would guess it is part luck and part the fact that the main truck battery is never discharged enough to require much 'help' from the camper battery. If the truck battery were discharged low enough and the camper battery were fully charged and you hit the starter I could see wires melting.

I've seen #8 melt as an alternator tried to recharge a mostly dead battery - and alternators usually top out at 150 amps - where as you starter may hit as much as 250-300 amps!
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#16 HERR42

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Posted 08 October 2010 - 04:40 PM

my point exactly!

in addition, the 30 amp thermal breaker should trip....maybe it is all the time and no one knows?
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Jeff Herr WW6L '07 Hawk & '00 F250 SuperDuty CrewCab, Warn 12K, BFG AT KO 'E' rated, TransferFlow 48Gal tank

#17 craig333

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Posted 09 October 2010 - 05:18 PM

I run an optima in the camper. Basically for an overnighter I'm not concerned, I'm just not using that much juice. For a longer trip I"ll isolate the camper battery from the truck.

My truck batteries are due for replacement. Noticeably harder starting now. They have seven years on them so no complaints here.
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#18 craig333

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Posted 09 October 2010 - 05:20 PM

I may just go out and toss my ammeter in between the camper and the truck and see just what it does when I start the truck. Its never tripped the breaker.
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Craig K6JGV_________________________ 2004 2500 CTD 4X4 FWC HAWK 1960 CJ5


#19 HERR42

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Posted 09 October 2010 - 05:33 PM

I may just go out and toss my ammeter in between the camper and the truck and see just what it does when I start the truck. Its never tripped the breaker.



how would you know? its thermal...it would reset on its own.

i sure would like to see the results!
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Jeff Herr WW6L '07 Hawk & '00 F250 SuperDuty CrewCab, Warn 12K, BFG AT KO 'E' rated, TransferFlow 48Gal tank

#20 ntsqd

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Posted 09 October 2010 - 10:19 PM

The whole starting deal is part of why I have the VSR/ACR. Can leave the aux bank isolated at the battery switch, but still have the alternator charge it while running. If you go with the "dual sense" version of these units then any solar input will close the circuit and top off the starting battery. This last feature isn't so important while camping, but is a real bonus when the vehicle sits for long periods between uses because then the solar can keep the stating battery(ies) topped off against the little draws (computer memory, clock, etc.) that all late models have.
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