17 replies to this topic

[MarkBC]

Thanks, Stan.

[Stan@FourWheel]

We thought about bypassing the switch, but it just sounded too risky.

It might be REALLY dangerous not to have the sail switch functioning somewhat normally.

The sail switch does serve a very good purpose.

I just wish it wasn't so sensitive on that Suburban furnace.

We would NOT want your camper to end up like this ...




Note: this camper was NOT burnt up by the furnace. Some jerks broke in to his camper, stole some items out of it, and then to top it all off they set it on fire as they left. Nice people, eh? Grrrrr



But he had insurance and they covered some of the new camper cost.

Thought I would post just for the heck of it.

It gives you guys a chance to see all the wierd things we get to see here week to week.

Don't forget to keep your fire extinguisher in the camper !

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[5 Spotter]

Thanks Stan and others for your informed replies.

I removed the cabinet face to reveal the heater. It appears identical to the posted pics.

The sail switch is located on the outer wall-end of the furnace and is not much more accessable with the cabinet face removed. I can see it more clearly now though. It is delicate and there's not much to lube even if I did completely removed the heater from the cabinet.

I already have a 2" x 3" hole in the cabinet divider wall that allows easy airflow and is located very close to the sail switch. For better airflow I'll need to open the adjacent cabinet door though.

I have tinkered with all connections and removed and checked a fuse located on a wire going into the heater. I cleaned the fuse terminals.

For some reason, and I wish I knew why, the heater has consistently fired-up every time I've tried it now that everything is exposed. It must be improved airflow or an improved electical connection. I can clearly hear that the fan is running at higher rpm's, which in turn easily pushes the sail switch far enough to activate the Piezo. And that's with the auxillary battery- just the way it should.

[craig333]

Fire extinguisher(s) for me. I'm amazed it didnt burn to the ground. That just makes me shudder.

[5 Spotter]

I thought I would post conclusions from my recent attempt at repairing, or at least improving the performance, of my Suburban heater.

Does anyone have this same unit (model DD-17DSI) that works consistently with auxillery battery?

When I removed the cabinet face, exposing both the heater and the interior of my propane tank enclosure, the heater worked flawlessly and with greatly improved vigor every time I tried to lite it. In fact, the sail switch worked so well that it actually moved all the way to its limit and was in contact with the back of the heater enclosure.

The interior of this cabinet space is nearly completly enclosed. Although cabinet partitions on either side of this space have small openings where various wires travel, the heater, fan, and sail switch must operate in an area that is fairly airtight. One partition has a small opening that is near an exterior vent that is behind my refrigerator and the other small opening draws limited air from an enclosed cabinet.

I think this model simply needs a greater fresh air supply to operate correctly on auxillery battery.

I cut a 2" hole with a hole saw in a cantilevered and unnoticable part of my cabinet face in an attempt to allow impoved airflow into the heater area. I cut the hole the same size as available grommets in case I needed to close the opening.

It wasn't enough. Even though the new opening helped, the heater still doesn't fire consistently after I buttoned everything up. Lots of air gets drawn into the newly cut hole when I get the unit lit. I can feel it easily with a bare hand and an open flame sucks obviously into the hole even from some distance.

Think I need a better heater.

5 Spotter

[leadsled9]

I use these type of connectors to ensure a good connection. I no longer use any connectors that don't have heat shrink.

Cost a bit more but worth it.

craig333,

How do you melt the enclosed solder on these? Is the "enclosed solder" area covered with the heat shrink? Where do you buy these?

[craig333]

I buy them from mcmaster-carr http://www.mcmaster....rminals/=a8hgos
I use the model V heat gun with a little u shaped attachment so the heat goes all around. Takes about ten seconds or so for the solder to melt. Wish they had the solder option all the heat shrink terminals.
http://www.mcmaster....at-guns/=a8hkcz
Hmmm, trouble with links, its on catalog page 2719. Look for light duty heat guns.

[leadsled9]

I buy them from mcmaster-carr http://www.mcmaster....rminals/=a8hgos
I use the model V heat gun with a little u shaped attachment so the heat goes all around. Takes about ten seconds or so for the solder to melt. Wish they had the solder option all the heat shrink terminals.
http://www.mcmaster....at-guns/=a8hkcz
Hmmm, trouble with links, its on catalog page 2719. Look for light duty heat guns.

I have a great 1200 watt heat gun with the u shaped attachment....but I've never delt with solder that melted at that low amount of temperature. I always had to use a soldering iron.

I take it these connectors go on just like regular heat shrink then....is that correct? And the solder melts at that low temp and all is good???