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Corroded 6 pin


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#1 Gormley Green

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Posted 11 February 2011 - 07:10 PM

So I noticed some rust/corrosion running down the side of my truck bed from the 6 pin connection housing. I backed the bolts out and see that it is awfully corroded, especially since it was installed in October! Toronto is notorious for using copious amounts of road salt, when I say copious I mean way too much!

Anyways, I suppose I will have to replace this. Though it still works. Here are my questions:

1) which of the 3 wires is which (black, white - both running forward along frame; and green - the thinnest gauge), for my reference. The thinnest wire, the green one, is the worst corroded - the screw it was held in with is gone. I believe it connects to my running (or maybe backup) lights?

2) how many volts should i read on each pin (say, with the truck running). I picked up current on 3 of them, between 13 and 14.5v.

3) is there any way to avoid this in the future, or at least mitigate it. yes, I am moving from Toronto so don't need to suggest that!

If it helps, it's wired for a FWC Hawk and truck is 2010 F150.

Thank you!

Mike

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2015 F350 FX4 with a 2010 FWC Hawk

#2 Stan@FourWheel

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Posted 11 February 2011 - 09:40 PM

.

For the camper wires, you will have 3 of them.

WHITE WIRE = POSITIVE +

BLACK WIRE = NEGATIVE -

GREEN WIRE = LED RUNNING LIGHTS ON THE OUTSIDE OF THE CAMPER


Please call Terry in our service dept. if you need help walking you through it.

He should be able to help and might have some wiring diagrams on how they are doing it.


FWC SERVICE

800-242-1442

ASK FOR TERRY



Thanks so much.



.


.
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Stan Kennedy --- Four Wheel Pop-up Campers
1400 Churchill Downs Avenue, Suite A

Woodland, CA 95776
(800) 242-1442 or (530) 666-1442
www.fourwh.com  ---  e-mail = stan@fourwh.com


#3 BenG

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Posted 11 February 2011 - 11:50 PM

Looks like 7 pin to me :unsure: , anyways when you replace it, use some dielectric grease on the connections, and they do make a boot that slips over rear of that plug, between the two that should help with corrosion.
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#4 Gormley Green

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Posted 11 February 2011 - 11:54 PM

Looks like 7 pin to me :unsure:


Haha. Facepalm. It's Friday! Thanks for the info tho, both you and Stan.
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2015 F350 FX4 with a 2010 FWC Hawk

#5 brianjwilson

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Posted 12 February 2011 - 01:26 AM

Agreed, you should really have a rubber plug/boot over the back of that. It will help a lot.
If the hole was drilled after bedliner was sprayed, be sure to clean the area and paint it as well.
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#6 pods8

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Posted 12 February 2011 - 01:47 AM

Agreed, you should really have a rubber plug/boot over the back of that. It will help a lot.
If the hole was drilled after bedliner was sprayed, be sure to clean the area and paint it as well.

+1
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#7 pvstoy

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Posted 12 February 2011 - 05:26 AM

Looks like 7 pin to me Posted Image , anyways when you replace it, use some dielectric grease on the connections, and they do make a boot that slips over rear of that plug, between the two that should help with corrosion.


Ditto on the dielectric grease...........
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Patrick

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#8 Gormley Green

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Posted 12 February 2011 - 11:49 PM

Thanks for the replies. I ordered a new connector and a rubber boot from my local RV shop. Going to put clear silicone on the connections and hopefully it will last longer!
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2015 F350 FX4 with a 2010 FWC Hawk

#9 dsrtrat

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Posted 13 February 2011 - 07:38 PM

Thanks for the replies. I ordered a new connector and a rubber boot from my local RV shop. Going to put clear silicone on the connections and hopefully it will last longer!


You might think about moving the plug out of it's present mounting location and just lay it in the truck bed. It would then be out of the direct splash from road spray. Put a bushing in the existing hole to protect the wire. You can always put the plug back in the hole if you don't like the configuration. On mine I use a Marinco 30 amp trolling motor plug that is marine rated with stainless contacts. I don't really know why you need more than three pins.
Dsrtrat
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#10 Desert Rancher

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Posted 13 February 2011 - 08:03 PM

If the camper stays on the truck most of the time, just hard wire it.

Mine is connected with crimped butt splices, then soldered and covered with two layers of heat shrink tubing.
It really is not difficult to do if you can solder.

No possibility of corrosion and the resulting voltage drop.
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