17 replies to this topic

[leadsled9]

another picture


leadslead, you are too fast for me !!




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Stan is right on as usual. If you follow that duplex negative it is grounded to the firewall. This was done at the FWC factory when the camper was installed. I might just extend that directly to the battery.....just for peace of mind. Can't have a better ground than the negative post of a battery. The firewall connection is prone to corrosion down the road.

[pods8]

You're over thinking things I think and misusing the term ground, there is only positive and negative lines in this DC system. This isn't like AC circuits which have an actual ground line. People sometimes say they "ground" the negative line to the vehicle frame but they'd just taking a short cut on running a negative line and using the frame to transfer the current back to the battery (poor practice in my opinion). There should be no need to tie your system into the camper frame.

Positive from the truck (whether that is from the alt or battery) should tie to the positive on the auxiliary battery (with whatever separator, etc. you want in the line). Feed your camper fuse block with the positive off the auxiliary battery.

Negative line from the truck should be on the battery negative terminal and runs to the negative bar in your camper, which also has the camper circuits and axillary battery tied into it.

2 lines only are needed between the truck and camper for this basic setup.

[longboardcr]

Stan and Leadsled9,
Wow...you guys are fast. Thanks so much for getting back so quickly- Pictures are all I need to get everything done. I believe this may be a useful thread in the future to those as electrically impotent as myself. Leadsled9, in answer to your question as to why I have a sure power model 1314/200 amp. Unfortunately I assumed owning a diesel F250 with 2 batteries and an alternator with a 136 amp capacity I would have exceeded the 1314 100 amp model's capability. I didn't quite do enough research, later realizing my alternator would never generate a amperage exceeding >100 amps. Not all is lost, I will in the future consider this purchase as a viable option for some offshore marine applications.

Thank you so much for all of the help. This forum's content goes beyond my highest expectations. Regards, LongboarderCR

[longboardcr]

pods8- I have learned a lot from you, and I will no longer use the word ground when referring to these 12V systems. I couldn't help myself based on the schematic found in the surepower pdf file. I look forward to installing a solar panel in the near future and will hit you up for more info later! Regards, LongboardCR

You're over thinking things I think and misusing the term ground, there is only positive and negative lines in this DC system. This isn't like AC circuits which have an actual ground line. People sometimes say they "ground" the negative line to the vehicle frame but they'd just taking a short cut on running a negative line and using the frame to transfer the current back to the battery (poor practice in my opinion). There should be no need to tie your system into the camper frame.

Positive from the truck (whether that is from the alt or battery) should tie to the positive on the auxiliary battery (with whatever separator, etc. you want in the line). Feed your camper fuse block with the positive off the auxiliary battery.

Negative line from the truck should be on the battery negative terminal and runs to the negative bar in your camper, which also has the camper circuits and axillary battery tied into it.

2 lines only are needed between the truck and camper for this basic setup.

[leadsled9]

I look forward to installing a solar panel in the near future and will hit you up for more info later! Regards, LongboardCR

longboarder,

brett13 started an Ultimate Solar Thread. Good reading for anyone wanting to install solar.
http://www.wanderthe...hp?/topic/3887/

[K7MDL]

Careful on the use of non-marine sealed electrical components on a boat.

You do not want corrosion getting into your contacts, but more importantly you do not want sparking at your relay contacts causing gas fumes to ignite. I am not sure the 1314 is explosion proof packaged, I cannot tell from the pictures I have and did not get a good look the other day at mine, but I did not see any statement in the specs I have claiming it is approved for marine usage. Just double check.

[Dern]

I'm going to install my electrical this weekend. What amp rating does the thermal breaker need to be? Also, what amp fuses should I use on the in line fuse assembly?

Thanks in advance,

Darren

[camelracer]

I'm going to install my electrical this weekend. What amp rating does the thermal breaker need to be? Also, what amp fuses should I use on the in line fuse assembly?

Thanks in advance,

Darren

FWC uses a 30 amp breaker but it really depends on what gauge wire you're using. Look up the max current capacity for your wire and fuse accordingly.