Jump to content


Photo
- - - - -

Thermostat


  • Please log in to reply
39 replies to this topic

#21 M1010 Mike

M1010 Mike

    Senior Member

  • Members
  • 164 posts

Posted 05 March 2013 - 03:37 AM

I had the same problem with my Honeywell digital thermostat not working properly below 40 deg. Fan would come on but wouldn't ignite the burner. I called Honywell and they told me they are not designed to work below 40 deg. I have gone back to my mech style and I now have heat when it is in the 20's and 30's. Nice.


Humm.... interesting. I can't remember how cold it was when we tried it. I don't think it was below 40 but I'll have to check into that idea.
  • 0

1984 Chevy M1010 Ambulance - Desert Turtle Build Thread
Sold: Build Thread on American Adventurist Dodge Ram and FWC Build


#22 riz

riz

    Senior Member

  • Members
  • 108 posts
  • LocationFort Collins, CO

Posted 11 March 2013 - 06:01 AM

I tried the digital route too, but most of my camping is done in the winter with temps around 10 degrees to -10F. The digital didn't work at those temps so I went back to to original equipment. I wish someone would make a digital thermostat that worked when you really need it... When it's cold!
  • 0
It only takes an instant to make a footprint in the sand... It sometimes takes a lifetime to find the beach.

#23 captainphx

captainphx

    Senior Member

  • Members
  • 305 posts
  • LocationCave Creek, AZ

Posted 11 March 2013 - 04:28 PM

Just got back from a week long trip in the Sand Hills/White Pockets area. It got as cold as 17 degrees. Had a chance to try out the new thermostat extensively. I thought it worked great. We never set it below 50. Used up only one tank of LP. One thing I don't like, is the location of the thermostat. It it right next to the hot water tank and thus reads higher than what the actual temp is inside the camper. We have a secondary thermometer on the opposite side of the camper, near the window and it always reads about 10 degrees cooler.

One other issue that is beginning to bug me, is the seemingly continuous outside airflow coming into the camper from under and around the frig. I'd like to seal around it. Does anyone know any reason why not to do that?
  • 0
Captainphx
FWC 2012 Raven
2013 Ford Raptor Supercrew
RPG Stage 3 with 2.5 inch and 4.0 inch bumpstops
Cave Creek, AZ

#24 pods8

pods8

    Senior Member

  • Members
  • 2,564 posts
  • LocationThornton, CO

Posted 11 March 2013 - 10:01 PM

I tried the digital route too, but most of my camping is done in the winter with temps around 10 degrees to -10F. The digital didn't work at those temps so I went back to to original equipment. I wish someone would make a digital thermostat that worked when you really need it... When it's cold!


The thermostat I added to mine reads "Lo" when it gets down in the 30s or so (I can't recall the exact temp) and when it does that it won't fire up the furnace. You need to warm it up first. In the past I've popped it off and tucked it in my shirt to warm it up then stuck it back on and it would fire things up. That was hacky and I'm getting ready to sell my Hawk now that my build is coming along so I finally got off my butt and just put a bypass switch around it. Now if it reads "Lo", just hit the bypass switch to fire up the furnace till it warms up enough for the thermostat to take over.
  • 0

2022 F350 7.3L; family trailer at the moment and some aluminum stuck together to eventually form another truck camper


#25 captainphx

captainphx

    Senior Member

  • Members
  • 305 posts
  • LocationCave Creek, AZ

Posted 12 March 2013 - 02:18 PM

The thermostat I added to mine reads "Lo" when it gets down in the 30s or so (I can't recall the exact temp) and when it does that it won't fire up the furnace. You need to warm it up first. In the past I've popped it off and tucked it in my shirt to warm it up then stuck it back on and it would fire things up. That was hacky and I'm getting ready to sell my Hawk now that my build is coming along so I finally got off my butt and just put a bypass switch around it. Now if it reads "Lo", just hit the bypass switch to fire up the furnace till it warms up enough for the thermostat to take over.


Sounds like a great "fix" for that problem.


  • 0
Captainphx
FWC 2012 Raven
2013 Ford Raptor Supercrew
RPG Stage 3 with 2.5 inch and 4.0 inch bumpstops
Cave Creek, AZ

#26 LT Traveler

LT Traveler

    Senior Member

  • Members
  • 121 posts

Posted 12 March 2013 - 04:31 PM

The thermostat I added to mine reads "Lo" when it gets down in the 30s or so (I can't recall the exact temp) and when it does that it won't fire up the furnace. You need to warm it up first. In the past I've popped it off and tucked it in my shirt to warm it up then stuck it back on and it would fire things up. That was hacky and I'm getting ready to sell my Hawk now that my build is coming along so I finally got off my butt and just put a bypass switch around it. Now if it reads "Lo", just hit the bypass switch to fire up the furnace till it warms up enough for the thermostat to take over.



Pods8, what do you mean by "bypass switch" my thermostat does the exact same thing yours does and having to take it off and wear it in your pocket for a few minutes is hokey. I like the sounds of your mod but don't understand it. Thanks.
  • 0
2004 Nissan Titan w/ 2011 FWC Hawk

#27 pods8

pods8

    Senior Member

  • Members
  • 2,564 posts
  • LocationThornton, CO

Posted 12 March 2013 - 05:11 PM

Pods8, what do you mean by "bypass switch" my thermostat does the exact same thing yours does and having to take it off and wear it in your pocket for a few minutes is hokey. I like the sounds of your mod but don't understand it. Thanks.


All the thermostat is doing is closing a switch and making a connection for the two wires that are connected to it. I added a manual switch as well in parallel to the thermostat (from each of the two wires going to the thermostat there is now a branch at the end of the wire, one leg to the thermostat and one to the switch). Either of them closing will fire up the furnace.

Stepping back: Your furnace has 3 wires. Positive, negative, and thermostat. The first two should be obvious how they are wired up. The thermostat input just needs a positive connection applied to it to fire up the furnace, so there is a positive wire that goes from the power source through a thermostat and then to this furnace connection. The thermostat is just a switch that makes/breaks this connection to turn the furnace on/off.
  • 0

2022 F350 7.3L; family trailer at the moment and some aluminum stuck together to eventually form another truck camper


#28 Edgewood

Edgewood

    Senior Member

  • Members
  • 206 posts
  • LocationBellingham WA

Posted 12 March 2013 - 05:58 PM

Would it be OK to replace the thermostat with a on/off switch?
  • 0

#29 pods8

pods8

    Senior Member

  • Members
  • 2,564 posts
  • LocationThornton, CO

Posted 12 March 2013 - 06:21 PM

Would it be OK to replace the thermostat with a on/off switch?


The furnace shouldn't care. I have no idea if there are codes it violates. Functionally it seems less than ideal though to solely use an on/off switch from a convenience factor.
  • 0

2022 F350 7.3L; family trailer at the moment and some aluminum stuck together to eventually form another truck camper


#30 JHa6av8r

JHa6av8r

    Senior Member

  • Validating
  • 510 posts
  • Location.

Posted 12 March 2013 - 06:30 PM

One other issue that is beginning to bug me, is the seemingly continuous outside airflow coming into the camper from under and around the frig. I'd like to seal around it. Does anyone know any reason why not to do that?


What kind of fridge do you have, 2-way or 3-way? We have a 2-way and it is not open at all to the outside.
  • 0




0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users