Jump to content


Photo
- - - - -

New (to me) FWC Owner


  • Please log in to reply
56 replies to this topic

#51 norcalhusky

norcalhusky

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 96 posts

Posted 26 July 2015 - 08:17 AM

I had some time today with the camper off the truck and was able to install the so called "roof lifter shock helper thingies" that most people are doing now.

 

 

Nwx4UCS.jpg?1

 

A7DoCFb.jpg?1

 

Works great. The top pretty much lifts itself now. Need to pull a bit to get them down. I don't seem to have the problem with one side lifting while trying to lower the other side which is nice. I used 40lb Suspa struts ordered directly from them and some random offset brackets.


  • 0

#52 norcalhusky

norcalhusky

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 96 posts

Posted 15 September 2015 - 08:51 PM

So I think my Fridge/Solar/Battery setup has met its match. The solar panel itself has been great, usually outputting greater than 5 amps. On most days where the ambient temp is like 90 or lower this seems to be adequete to completely recharge the battery fairly quickly and the fridge stays nice and cool. However, the combination of higher temps in the day and lasting into the night starts to weaken the system, and with a hazy/cloudy day thrown in things can go south pretty quickly.

 

 

To reiterate what my system is, I have a: 

63AH Interstate deep cycle battery

65L Dometic 2-way compressor fridge - 

Renogy Tracer 20Amp Negative Grounded MPPT Charge Controller

Renogy 100Watt "solid" panel mounted to the roof

10 awg wiring from panel to controller

8 awg wiring from battery to fuse panel

10 awg wiring from fuse panel to fridge 

 

This system is completely isolated from the trucks alternator. My camper did not come with a camper/truck connection and I haven't retrofitted one yet. The camper lives on my truck nearly full time and I leave the fridge on always.

 

I don't think the single 63AH battery has enough capacity to effectively run the fridge through a warm night very well and the auto protection shutoff on the controller shuts off power at some point the next day without getting a really good charge in. The result is the other day the temps inside my fridge reached the 60's!

 

I think the short term solution for me is a connection from the truck battery to the camper battery, so my daily commute at least gets some charge.

 

Long term solution is another 100 watt panel on the roof ( which I conveniently left enough room for :) ), and a second battery 


  • 0

#53 DrJ

DrJ

    Senior Member

  • Members
  • 514 posts
  • LocationSouthern Idaho

Posted 15 September 2015 - 09:04 PM

You've got a great camper Norcalhusky.

Hope you get years of fun with it!

Before you spend more on additional solar, your amp hours in the battery is probably the biggest issue. You could run your setup much better with more battery capacity.
I'd recommend 150-200 amp hours. At least double what you currently have. Those compressor fridges use more power than you think.

If that still was not working a second 100 watt panel probably would do it.
  • 0

2015 Silverado Crew Cab Duramax and 2015 Front Dinette Grandby

One can change the world, it only requires kindness

http://www.truckcamp...g-family-earth/

 


#54 norcalhusky

norcalhusky

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 96 posts

Posted 15 September 2015 - 10:21 PM

You've got a great camper Norcalhusky.

Hope you get years of fun with it!

Before you spend more on additional solar, your amp hours in the battery is probably the biggest issue. You could run your setup much better with more battery capacity.
I'd recommend 150-200 amp hours. At least double what you currently have. Those compressor fridges use more power than you think.

If that still was not working a second 100 watt panel probably would do it.

 

Thanks! I agree with you, the amp hours is probably what I need most. Especially after I have the charging ability from the truck. Although adding another panel is probably easier (and cheaper) than adding another battery!


  • 0

#55 Casa Escarlata Robles Too

Casa Escarlata Robles Too

    C'est la vie

  • Site Team
  • 9,297 posts
  • Locationmonterey bay area

Posted 16 September 2015 - 12:00 AM

IMO you should connect to the truck charging system.

It at least gives you some safety net.

And at some point get a larger battery 75-100a.

I have a 105w solar system and the 75ah AGM battery that came with the camper.

I have ,for our needs enough power.

My draw is a Truckfridge 45L cooler and LED lights,plus heater only used in mornings,never through the night.

I find with my system I can charge our personal items,camera battery,laptop.that sort of usage.

All seems to work for us.The test for our system came back in July as we camper on the Oregon coast in tree cover and for 3 days little or no solar input or truck movement,and had enough power.But that was about the limit.

When camped in good solar gain I could last "forever".

Use 3way on propane or 12v while traveling.

Plus with the right type of battery isolator,the solar system will charge the truck battery also.

Win win.

Nice camper and enjoy your time using it.

Frank


  • 0

2002 Tundra AC TRD 4WD Limited 2009 ATC Bobcat loaded http://sharychic.blogspot.com/


#56 wuck

wuck

    Senior Member

  • Members
  • 329 posts
  • LocationPollock Pines, Sebastopol CA

Posted 16 September 2015 - 04:00 PM

I don't think the single 63AH battery has enough capacity to effectively run the fridge through a warm night very well and the auto protection shutoff on the controller shuts off power at some point the next day without getting a really good charge in. The result is the other day the temps inside my fridge reached the 60's!

 

I think the short term solution for me is a connection from the truck battery to the camper battery, so my daily commute at least gets some charge.

 

Long term solution is another 100 watt panel on the roof ( which I conveniently left enough room for :) ), and a second battery 

 

Although your battery is only about 6 months old, a deep discharge daily for 180 days has probably put a big dent in its capacity.

 

You've figured it all out, truck connection, a bigger battery, and maybe a second panel.

 

My Renogy MPPT disconnected the load once in the last few months, not sure why. The battery was full, fridge was off, the master switch was on but only thing powered up was the LP/CO detectors.


  • 0

Pat

'04 FWC Hawk

'15 F250 SD SuperCab / Short Bed

SuperDuty Mileage (Fuelly)

Trip Photos on Flickr 


#57 norcalhusky

norcalhusky

    Advanced Member

  • Members
  • PipPipPip
  • 96 posts

Posted 14 October 2015 - 07:03 AM

Well I was getting the camper ready to go out this weekend. The controller showed something like 12 volts. I turned on the fantastic fan and it shot down to 11.4 volts. Nothing had been using the battery for a few weeks now. I was thinking the battery was on its way out. I left the fan on and continued my prep. While working in the battery department I gave a quick look at the controller and wiring. I touched the fuse between the controller and the battery and noticed it was warm! I thought uh oh. I kind of pushed the fuse into its holder. I didn't really feel it move but the voltage on the meter shot up to 12.4 volts instantly. I decided to rip that portion of wiring out and put in new thicker gauge wire and a new fuse/fuse holder. I think I found a majority of the problem that I had been having. For some reason there most have not been a good connection in the original fuse that was causing some major voltage drop. I bet the system is going to work fine again :).

Edited by norcalhusky, 14 October 2015 - 07:05 AM.

  • 0




0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users