17 replies to this topic

[Casa Escarlata Robles Too]

Interesting that the aopec unit looks to be exactly the same housing as the BEP Marine "Voltage Sensing Relay" that we use.

 

Ours is a "single sense" in that it only looks at the starting battery voltage to decide when to turn on and when to turn off.

http://www.delcity.n...System/p_793852

I plan on replacing it with a 'dual sense" VSR so that our solar will do exactly what frank's does.

http://www.delcity.n...System/p_793863

That price is $10 more than I got mine for.

Not a bad price.

One other thing about this type of unit it doesn't get hot like the Surepower separators.

Frank

[RC Pilot Jim]

Thanks all for your input.

[RC Pilot Jim]

I updated the original post after speaking with the Shure Power Tech

 

How Sure Power tech interpreted brochure statement:

 

1. Modern alternators put out 13.8 - 14.2 volts.

2. When engine battery reaches 13.2 volts " Battery Separator" joins the two batteries. (start the engine)

3. If drain on the charging system by either the aux or engine battery voltage reduces the system voltage  below 12.8 volts.....the Battery Separator disconnects the two batteries from each other thus protecting the engine battery from discharge.

4. Disconnected means alternator won't run owners fridge....Fridge then runs off aux battery.

5. Not a big prob with Engle or Waeco...Could be with  3-way (draws 11.8 amps continuous)

6. Average owner won't know if disconnect occurs going down the road unless he can monitor aux battery from the cab. 

 

I know there are steps we techies can take to fix our rigs. Hoping this might be helpful information for the average owner who wants to keep the original factory equipment and wants a better understanding of its use and restrictions.

Edited by RC Pilot Jim, 15 July 2014 - 12:27 AM.

[Oryguntroutbum]

I have the new Zamp system.  I have the 100 watt on the roof and am also wired for another panel in the rear.  Just FYI, when I first took delivery of my camper I obviously wasn't familiar with the system yet.  After my shakedown trip I realized my solar wasn't charging the batteries.  After some checking around I discovered that a fuse was blown near the controller panel.  Upon inspection I found it to be a 5 amp fuse.  The manual calls for a 15 amp.  I corresponded with Brenda and she said they are now using 15 amps but did use 5's for a while.  Keep this in mind if you have a newer camper and seem to be having problems. 

 

Chris

[RC Pilot Jim]

Sorry you had probs with solar charging.
It is a good idea to" learn" your camper so you know how it operates and can test that everything works = no surprises.

[RC Pilot Jim]

I have an 80 watt panel that was wide enough (about 45 inches) to span the distance between the yakima tracks on my roof. Rather than hanging the panel from the yakima towers and cross bars, I made some brackets using aluminum angle. I pop-riveted them to the panel frame. Then bolted the brackets to the tracks using the yakima bolts and the metal part that goes into the t track.

Re-wrote the original post summarizing my research.

Added Renology 4 pound flexible 100watt solar panel to my roof.....
So far so good.

Edited by RC Pilot Jim, 06 October 2014 - 01:05 AM.

[RC Pilot Jim]

Some of you have asked me to re-run this Post,  especially for those folks ordering a new camper and are on the fence 

about whether to order or delay purchasing solar for their new camper.

[carld]

Has anyone noticed this.  I have the  AOPEC  #R12140B installed by ATC, with the 3-way Dometic refrigerator.  I measured the refrigerator at 12V and it draws about 8 amps.  With the truck idling and no solar input there seems to be enough loss  to cause the  the camper battery/isolator to drop out periodically.  I can here it clicking on and off at the period of the isolators 5 sec internal delay time.  Not sure that it happens at higher engine RPM.  It also goes away when the solar panels kick in an extra 2 or 3 amps.  

 

I think that the problem is loss in the connection from the truck battery to the isolator (connections, fuse, wire).  One problem I see is that ATC ran two wires a + and - (ground) from the truck battery to camper 12 V connector.  I think shortening the ground wire and connecting it directly to the truck frame close to the 12V connector would almost half the loss and maybe fix the problem.

 

I'm not having a problem with it after spending over 2 months without solar and now 2 months with solar, but it could be a  problem later with older batteries.