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Roof lift gas struts


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#51 craig333

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Posted 25 September 2014 - 03:12 AM

Not my link but someone posted this.

 

http://www.pbase.com...tyl_tape&page=1


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#52 buckland

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Posted 26 October 2014 - 07:28 PM

After a lot of investigating and assembling the parts I have finished installing the lift supports. I made a photo of each step and captions to explain what I did. I put this in a PDF file so it would be less than 500kb to up load... not sure how else to do it. I have seen folks put slide shows of trips and wonder if I am missing the file size or correct process.  I would love to know how.

Attached Files


Edited by buckland, 26 October 2014 - 07:34 PM.

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#53 Casa Escarlata Robles Too

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Posted 26 October 2014 - 07:39 PM

Rob,looks like you have it all figured out.

Did you use the 40" struts?

How do you like the "lifting"

Frank


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#54 buckland

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Posted 27 October 2014 - 10:24 PM

For those that have looked at the pdf file of the process ... the last part shows the angle of the strut...i.e. it is not 90º with the floor and the barrel shaft  is rubbing against the roof lip.... the lower ball brackets are too far in or the off set bracket at the top too far out...either way I decided to put a ¼" aluminum flat stock on the lower to bring it out so there is not contact. For those of differing model years this might have to be your solution as well. Each step seems to be a learning curve.

 

The 'lifting;' is not as easy as I had hoped... I think this maybe due to the rubbing so it is not going up freely. I sure hope this corrects that. More to come in the next few days.


Edited by buckland, 27 October 2014 - 10:25 PM.

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#55 BobM

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Posted 27 October 2014 - 10:52 PM

Here's a video I did today showing how easy it is to lift the roof with a Pro Audio speaker stand and a power drill. I don't have lift struts on my rig and don't need them.



The stand can be purchased here http://www.guitarcen...418-i1170318.gc Just drill out the tripod because all you need is the pole. Save the rubber feet from the tripod to put on the ends of the pole
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#56 buckland

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Posted 28 October 2014 - 10:42 AM

I have used one since I got the camper ... it works great. With the added weight of the Yakima system, gas tanks and canoe you will hear the crank strain under the weight... it is a very light weight aluminum gear. If the roof was stock it worked great. This isn't the case anymore. I used the tripod I removed to set up a solar panel so that I could place it in the sun...camper in shade; that's another string posting.


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#57 buckland

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Posted 28 October 2014 - 09:49 PM

I know ... a long row to hoe... but making progress. I bought the ¼" flat stock aluminum ($6) 1x12" rear and 2x6" front. This kicked the struts out and also gave a considerable amount of strength to the base. It worked fine. My only concern has been with the rear lift panels 'popping' out when I release the front. It also has to be "popped" in when opening (meaning it is not at max height). The struts went on easily, exactly 40" with the template. Perhaps the one rear panel, which has a slight bow in it, needs a little time to relax without the tension of the weight, now released with the strut, on top. I will include a few shots to show the step out plates added and the angle of the struts now closer to 90º. 

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Edited by buckland, 28 October 2014 - 09:51 PM.

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2016 Duramax 2.8 Diesel long bed Colorado 4WD with 2011 Eagle

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#58 JHa6av8r

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Posted 28 October 2014 - 09:57 PM

I have used one since I got the camper ... it works great. With the added weight of the Yakima system, gas tanks and canoe you will hear the crank strain under the weight... it is a very light weight aluminum gear. If the roof was stock it worked great. This isn't the case anymore. I used the tripod I removed to set up a solar panel so that I could place it in the sun...camper in shade; that's another string posting.


I have a solar panel, 4 Yakima bars, and a basket case on the roof of my Grandby and use 2 internal 100# struts to make lifting it easier. When the top is loaded with kayak and other things, I lift the rear manually and use the crank to lift the front. The front can be raised manually when loaded but it's a pretty good lift. The internal struts take a lot of strain off the hand crank.
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#59 kitmann

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Posted 13 November 2014 - 06:14 AM

Working on a Hawk.  We will have two sea kayaks on top plus the Yakima rack - about 150#s.  When setting up camp, will definitely off load before lifting, but in transit, they will have to stay on.  Is four 40# lifters going to be enough?  Maybe 50#s on front, or all around?

As for the need to pull the top down when the boats aren't on, why not mount a handle on the interior wood push plates on the ceiling?


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#60 craig333

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Posted 14 November 2014 - 12:17 AM

Only having my kayak on occasionally the 40's are fine. A bit more effort. With two and having them on all the time I'd go with the 50's.


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