Jerry Cans - The secret Weapon

Wandering Sagebrush said:
*** Heads Up ***

The Valco spouts don’t quite fit the older NATO Jerry cans (my cans are dated 1951 and 1952). The spout air vent tube is slightly larger than the receptacle tube inside the Jerry can. When I have a little more time, I’ll try filling the spout vents to see if I can get a fit. Failing that, maybe bending it out of the way.

If anyone has a recommendation, I’m open to suggestions.
Interesting; I've never run into this problem with some pretty old (though undated) German cans. Please do give us photos!
 
pvstoy said:
Tom and Thom,

Tom attached are my images of the spout that I just got a hour ago.
Did yours have this much rust?

They did attach a new gasket.

I need to clean up all the rust. What paint type would you use after the rust is removed? (something in a spray can?)

Thanks, Patrick
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Did a clean up and paint to the rusty metal. Someday I'll make the coper reducer for the end. Too many projects and other stuff going on.
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I was asked in a PM if I had a pic of my modified nozzle and I didn't find one. I since have found a picture of it that I did not remember taking.

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Unsoldering the metal flex section of a hard to replace nozzle was disconcerting at best, but I like this version even better. I do plan to shorten the clear tubing to somewhere between 1/2 and 2/3 as long. I also recalled the size of the tubing incorrectly. It is Ø.75" and not the Ø.625" that I had thought it was. Source for the tubing is unknown as a friend gave it to me. It is supposedly fuel proof or at least fuel resistant. If it proves to not be I plan to source a replacement from McMaster. In the mean time I have kept the metal flex just in case I decide to revert it back.


There have been a couple cans that this nozzle didn't easily fit into as well, but I've never been completely shut out. Some just take more wiggling than others.
 
If the history of using this type of tubing for racing dump cans and refueling dirt bikes is any indicator it is a non-issue with gasoline. Diesel is even less of a problem.
 
Brief chemistry lesson following on Thom's comment: Generally, it's not the fuel that burns but the vapor it generates. Gasoline vaporizes at -45ºF; diesel vaporizes at +120ºF, which is why it is so much safer.
 
Vic, Jon: here is the photo. My assumption is that the breather tubes should mate, but the Valpro tube is wider and more narrow than the vintage NATO can. After seeing Thom’s spout, I wonder if all it needs is for the tubes to bypass one another, allowing a vent bubble to form in the can. Inquiring minds want to know.

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Steve (Wandering Sagebrush) and I discussed this this morning. There is no absolutely need for the breather tubes to mate. The spout's breather feeds air into the can which the can's tube sucks in effectively.
 
I think that it does matter to the speed of dispensing. Perhaps better said the smooth speed of dispensing. When the air entering the can has to bubble thru any liquid it tends to cause the liquid to "gallop" in leaving the can. A big gurgle followed by a pause for the ingestion of air, then another big gurgle, repeat until the can is nearly empty at which point the vent air doesn't need to bubble thru the liquid and the flow smooths out considerably.

At least that has been my experience.
 
Interesting. In 30 years of using this style can, the only time I've experienced what you describe was when either the spout's or the can's vent tube/orifice was too small. In the review I linked this was demonstrated to absurd lengths by the cheap spout that only had a punched hole near the end for a breather. The definitely created the phenomenon—five minutes worth of it. Otherwise I have mixed up high-quality spouts and cans with no difference in performance. Support for this can be seen in the Swiss spout, which has an extended tube that comes nowhere close to the can's breather. It seems clear that the two do not need to mate.
 
I wasn't clear, they don't need to mate, but the vent mechanism does need to reach past the liquid level and reach any air inside the can. If the way that this is achieved is via the Swiss nozzle's long tube or by some other nozzle's mating with the can's tube then that is what is required.
A downside to the long tube of the Swiss nozzle is that those cans with their own tube make it a little more difficult to install the nozzle. Some of my cans do not have their own tube and the nozzle is easy to install into those cans.
 
Just a heads up for anyone considering purchasing one of the real deal Swiss spouts. I recently needed to buy another, but about the only place to buy one is Swiss Army Vehicles in Arkansas. Unfortunately, they are usually listed as out of stock on their website. Both times I needed one though, I called them direct and they were able to find me one. Very nice and helpful people to deal with.

Although the price is rather steep, I personally really appreciate the high quality and performance of the real Swiss product. I’ve used other types in the past but unfortunately they have eventually wound up in the trash.

As stated in previous posts, Jon Hanson has an interesting article comparing different spouts on his website that’s worth checking out as well.

Tom
 
Okay, I went and bought fwc- Mule Jerry Can with all the mounting stuff and it arrived w/o instructions (called them) and I guess we use the old jack bolts to mount it. I seem to remember seeing/reading/hearing somewhere here about needing additional bolts to mount it on the back-did I misread that? Any help would be appreciated so I can mount it and not carry that dang jetty can around in the camper. Thanks!!! :D

Smoke
 
Smokecreek1 said:
Okay, I went and bought fwc- Mule Jerry Can with all the mounting stuff and it arrived w/o instructions (called them) and I guess we use the old jack bolts to mount it. I seem to remember seeing/reading/hearing somewhere here about needing additional bolts to mount it on the back-did I misread that? Any help would be appreciated so I can mount it and not carry that dang jetty can around in the camper. Thanks!!! :D

Smoke
Hey Smoke, I have seen some Jerry can bracket mounts that had a metal strap on the bottom that secured down near/on the bed. That’s the extent of my expertise.

I hope you and Timber are doing well.

WS
 
I had most of the weight resting on a 2"x1/4" x 18" chunk of steel bar I had screwed into the floor pack when I carried a fuel cannister.
 

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