121 replies to this topic

[buckland]

Just saw this. That's what this WTW does so well. People asking people things that makes life easier. I hope you found my 10 page PDF somewhere on here (I think I put it on the the "Lift Thingies" thread). Lots of photos of the process But if not I still have a copy and would be happy to email you it. Just send a PM and I'll send it along. 

[Occidental]

I did find your pdf, very helpful, thanks for taking the time to document it.  I am just waiting for the butyl tape and a nice day when I'm not at work or on an adventure, then the struts are going on!

[buckland]

For folks who need the instal PDF    

http://www.wanderthe...s-struts/page-6

 

also further down on the page are some photos of the aluminum plates I used to make it rock solid.

[Occidental]

Ok, so I installed the struts a few weeks back, and presto! I can finally pop the top without the assistance of the speaker stand.  It is still a bit of a challenge, enough that I don't think my wife can open it, but my back is thanking me already!  Anyway, I noted the instruction to avoid drilling through the wire for the rear install, but I ended up finding that easier said than done.  I hit it dead center with the second hole (lucky on the first I guess).  Now my 2 porch lights do not work.  I'm at a bit of a loss as to how to repair / rewire the damaged wire being that it runs through the interior tubing of the frame and splicing the wire is impossible.  I am guessing I'll need to go back to the fuse and rewire something external to the frame?  Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

[Wandering Sagebrush]

After carefully looking things over, first thing I’d do is call the builder and ask a few questions based on your snooping. Then I would see if you can pull the interior wall back from the frame to see if you can find the wire and pull it out of the frame tube. You might get lucky and be able to splice things together. Good luck!

That is never fun. I’ve had to replace the entire wiring harnesses in two UH 1E helicopters after a metal smith hit the wire bundle dead center as he drilled out about 4 feet of rivets for a skin replacement. It was hot and humid work in SE Asia.

[buckland]

Remove the screws on wall paneling and gently pull back. Wire is usually just snaked through frame... sometimes they drill through the up rights. You should be able to add in a connector ... wrap in black tape.... or if able shrink wrap.

Edited by buckland, 01 June 2019 - 12:16 AM.

[Northbynortheast]

FWIW

Suspa gas springs are way overpriced. I just bought a new set from Gemini gas springs in Canada. Ordered from US. About 25% of what the Suspas cost. $160ish ca? for four.

[chingchangchop]

FWIW

Suspa gas springs are way overpriced. I just bought a new set from Gemini gas springs in Canada. Ordered from US. About 25% of what the Suspas cost. $160ish ca? for four.

Hey Northbynortheast, 

I'm looking to get some struts for my 2009 Finch. 
When you ordered from Gemini, what information did you have to provide them to order their springs?
I know the Finch needs 40" struts but their website shows multiple internal and external diameters and I'm unsure of which to get. 

 

Thanks

[chingchangchop]

Hello again... just out of hibernation of New England and about to head to Kentucky with the 2011 Eagle on the 2001 Tacoma. I had installed the roof lifts last fall and then had to wait. A week ago I was able to load the camper and see how things held out with the winter cold...whoa a cold one here. I tried the roof lift and it was not nice. I used the factory install method ...made a 40" template arm so I positioned the arms correctly ( recall the front roof clamps had to be moved out to get the right lift position). The front worked great but the back, even though I used the FWC 40" template for the 40" required lift supports, the 'stretch was too far out . The directions received from FWC was to put the lift bracket ball up against the roof clamp.I did that and speaking from a 2011 Eagle stand point that is not right. I decided the geometry of the lift was wrong... I could feel it did not have the lift needed at the right time of the radius swing of the lifter. I decided to be yankee conservative and move both lifters in on the roof 1.5" so that I could use one of the same drill holes. Sure enough ...wow... a huge improvement. The roof lifts with only a push instead of needing the crank. And most importantly at the top of the arch... it gently allows the panels to pop into place... no hard snap. I am very happy. I did plug the extra hole with a screw and silicone. So we are off to KY and then Virginia George Washington National Forest and on up to PA and then home. I just wanted to let anyone who decides to add lift supports to their Eagle (needing the 40" 30 lb supports) if they need help just ask and I can give what info I gained in  the process.  

Hey Buckland, hope its not to late to revive this thread. I'm looking to add some lift supports to my 2010 Finch and have been using your PDF as reference for an install. You mentioned earlier that the rear panel didnt pop in and out as easily prior to your fix of moving in the rear roof strut supports. Should I not use the 40 inch jig method to determine the placement of the brackets? Any and all advice is appreciated. 

Thanks!

[buckland]

Ah yes I remember ... the 40” jig is definitely the way to go. It needed a bit of time to get the struts ‘worked in I guess. Be sure to put those 1/4” aluminum plates on the exterior with the through bolts from interior to the struts. That makes it rock solid. I will say...since that install I removed the Suspa 30 lb and bought Gemini (from Canada) 40 lb. as I have 160 watt panel and roof racks. It is real nice and easy to put up and down. I would suggest 40’s if you intend to have stuff on the roof.