47 replies to this topic

[rotti]

I also have the 100w Renogy folding suitcase. Very happy with its performance. It folds up nicely into a quality case and has been supplying all the power for my needs the past three years. It is a perfect fit behind my roll over couch.

 

[Trailbob]

Dr J and Rotti, thanks for your input.  Looks like the 100w Renogy is a good value for the price.

[Ace!]

I posted before about the 100W panel sold by Costco.  It is $149, was on sale for a time for $129.  It was easy to hook up a Zamp indoor/outdoor solar controller with Zamp style (SAE) plug (since that's what my FWC uses).  I spent a relatively small amount of money (bought a controller that would work with up to 255W) and can buy a second panel if necessary that is plug-n-play.  It will be my portable kit, and it may be permanently mounted at some point.

 

Anyway, Costco was sold out of the 100W panels, but they have them again for $149.

Edited by Ace!, 18 December 2015 - 03:44 AM.

[Ramblinman]

Question: I have a folding portable solar panel with alligator clips, and I am installing 2 new batteries in my Hawk. Could I attach the positive alligator clip to the positive on battery #1 and the negative clip to the neg post on battery #2? 

 

Am I right to assume that both batteries connected will work as one unit?

[Trailbob]

Question: I have a folding portable solar panel with alligator clips, and I am installing 2 new batteries in my Hawk. Could I attach the positive alligator clip to the positive on battery #1 and the negative clip to the neg post on battery #2? 

 

Yes, that would be the correct way to do it.  Personally, I would consider alligator clips a temporary solution, and would prefer to hardwire a detachable plug where one could easily connect/disconnect the portable solar.  But what you proposed will work.

[PaulT]

Question: I have a folding portable solar panel with alligator clips, and I am installing 2 new batteries in my Hawk. Could I attach the positive alligator clip to the positive on battery #1 and the negative clip to the neg post on battery #2? 

 

Am I right to assume that both batteries connected will work as one unit?

 

1. Please don't do that unless there is a solar charge controller on the panel. Because a bare "12 volt" solar panel will produce somewhere between 17 and 22 volts, it will cook your battery in short order. 

 

2. Are both batteries 12 volt or are they 6 volt golf cart batteries?

 

     a. If the two batteries are 12 volt in parallel, hooking up the way you suggest is fine.

 

     b. If they are two 6 volt batteries hooked up in series, be sure that you hook them up such that the +12 v solar controller output is hooked up to the battery +12 v connector and the ground solar controller output is hooked up the battery 12 v ground connector.

 

Use a meter to verify the voltages are correct

 

Paul

[muttmaster]

With the help of some of the experts on this forum, I was able to install 125 watts roof panel and Trimetric monitor and controller. System works great for my single battery. I just purchased a Renogy folding 100 watts for winter use, just in case I needed it and in case I add another battery, or have more power draw in the future. At lease that is my excuse for justifying the purchase anyway.

 

The Renogy comes with controller, and the first question I have is how the portable will be compatible with the Trimetric setup. Bogart SC-2030 manual (4.1.5) says more than one controller can be used, but must be connected to the TM-2030 so it can "see" the portable's current when it is charging, but I can't seem to find where they shows how to connect the portable to the TM-2030.

 

The Renogy comes with battery clips and voltage sensor and temperature sensor. I really don't want to spent much time worrying about it as I just want to have some back up charging capability and the portable can allow me to use in other applications.

 

Any advise? Can the Trimetric tells me which panel is collecting how many amps? Should I just connect the Renogy when needed and don't worry about it?

 

I will do some research under Trimetric forum, but their manuals makes my head hurt.

[muttmaster]

Called Renogy and asked Tech dept about modifying the wiring connections to on-board folding panel controller. They informed me that any mod will void warranty. Suggested that I should of purchased portable panel without controller so I can  connect to installed SC-2030 in camper. I was hoping to be able to connect to SC-2030 with the fold-able and also be able to hook up panel controller when using it for charging other batteries off the camper, but that is not going to happen.

 

I also emailed Bogart and asked about wiring from secondary controller from my fold-able, but have not received any reply.

 

I don't anticipate using the fold-able backup panel that much, so I am not going to worry about having precise battery readings from my fold-able. Probably can be done, per Bogart's dual SC2030 setup, but too much trouble.

 

Did make 10' and 25' 10 gauge extension with Anderson connectors for the fold-able, so I accomplished something  today.

Edited by muttmaster, 28 September 2017 - 06:00 PM.

[Squatch]

I made my own. 2 Solar Cynergy 60 watt poly panels were cheap! I added a couple of hinges to fold them. 25' 8 gauge cable with Anderson connectors on each end for an extension. They are wired parallel into the same Anderson connector. Then plugged in to the camper parallel to the main panel before the charge controller. A little heavy but put out great power and price was under $100.

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Trailbob]

My portable solar is a 90W Overland Solar panel.  It came with Anderson (SB50) connectors between the panel and the panel's controller, and another Anderson connector coming out of the controller to connect to the battery.  This allows me to either use the panel's controller to charge a battery, or unplug the panel's controller and go directly from the panel to the SC2030 controller in my camper.  I have two extension cables with Anderson connectors:  one is approx 10' long and made from 10 ga wire, the other is about 25 or 30' and made from 8 ga marine duplex.

 

I'm not sure if it would be feasible to disconnect you panel's controller, or add a quick disconnect plug between the panel and the panel's controller.  But that is what would have to be done if you want to bypass the panel's controller.  I believe some portable panels can be purchased without a controller, in which case you would run directly to the camper's SC2030 controller.

 

In my camper, I used an Anderson SB50 connector for the portable panel.  I paralleled the connections from the portable panel input to the input from the roof panel.  In my Hawk, I think I used a power stud for the connection.  I did the same set up in our travel trailer, but I used a 3 way Blue Sea marine battery switch for the connection.  Both work, but I think the 3 way switch is a better way to go.

 

If you don't want to bypass your portable panel's controller, you could wire a quick connect (Anderson) to the positive side of the battery, and the camper side of the shunt on the battery negative.  You would be bypassing the SC2030, but the Trimetric RV2030 would still log the amps in and out.  You could temporarily hook it up that way to see if you are happy with the results.  

 

I had good luck calling Bogart when I had questions, but sometimes it took a bit to get through.  I would definitely follow what they say over my ideas if they are different.

 

Good luck with your project.  It can be a challenge to set it all up, but it will be worth it for the flexibility it gives you.

 

-Bob