99 replies to this topic

[PaulT]

The function if the ignition/starting connection is to protect some sensitive (i.e. poorly designed) electronics, (that you may or may not have) from quick "spikes" or voltage transients while the engine is starting. Another good approach to absorbing the spikes is a large battery in the circuit that you do have. In fact, that is why you are sending the power from the truck to the camper.

If you are really concerned about possible spikes, why not mount the ACR under the hood of your truck between the existing circuit breaker going to the camper and the truck battery. You would not need the battery isolator in the camper. You were replacing that anyway with the ACR. The whole length of the ignition/starting connection wire to the ACR would be under your hood.

Paul

[TDFuego]

Thanks, Paul;  That's a good option you've pointed out.

 

 Since I've no spike protection now, and it's been several years with existing system and no problems, I assumed spike protection I don't need......  Main reason for placing ACR in camper is it's just an almost simple (yes, nothing really is) in-and-out switch from old isolator to new ACR, no new wires/fittings etc.  Only some new mounting holes for the ACR.  I've asked the original question wondering if the ACR operating processes are harmed in some way by NOT using the ignition connection.  I'll go out now and see if under hood mounting is an easy task.  Of course I won't get far as the temperature is already pushing 90!

 

Thanks again,   Alon

[Stalking Light]

I didn't hook up the ignition part of my ACR and it works fine, fwiw.

[TrapperMike]

I didn't hook the ignition up either and it works great.  Far superior charge to the house batteries when engine running.  I like the manual override option too.

[Sharx]

Excellent post of a topic I myself am in the early stages of researching.  Being in CA, I have found that the sun on my 160W solar panel is so good, that I have yet to have a problem with my power-hog Dometic 65L set fairly low taking away too many amps.  But I have yet to see what happens in the winter and am being proactive for what might.  I can use my inverter pretty often as well.  While I have read plenty of good stories on Blue Sea products, one might also check out what a place called Hellroaring Technologies provides as far as battery isolators.  Their stuff has very low loss of power and less output of heat.  I am considering both companies for my own rig.  But also thinking of adding more solar too (especially the new lightweight flex panels) and/or a small generator for overcast days.

 

But if your vehicle does a no-start like mine a few days ago.... a new trick item I scored at Costco ($60+T) is a portable battery jump starter made by Winplus that came way in handy the other day when I lett my headlights on by accident.  2 hours later, I got the dreaded clicking noise instead of an engine turning over.  I was thinking there is no way the thing could start a V6 with what seemed like such a small sized battery cellphone "brick" charger.  But I was blown away how easy it was to use and how well it started my Tacoma.  The "brick" can even charge 2 USB (1 and 2 Amp) items with it's built in USB out ports and has a flashilight.

[TDFuego]

Thank you Stalking Light and Trapper Mike (could make a poem out of those handles).  I got the SI-ACR installed as you have done with no problems.  Unfortunately I yet have the same problem I started with which is the battery drain while driving and the Dometic frig on 12v operation.  Battery (which is good) will drain down to low after 45 minutes.

[ckent323]

Boonie,

 

"Any problems with the ACR when the truck battery is flooded cell and the camper battery is an AGM?"

 

 

See this topic:

 

http://www.wanderthe...eg-fla-and-agm/

 

 

Craig

[Herve]

I read in this thread that the Blue Sea ACR is superior to the Sure Power 1314A.

 

My 2011 Hawk came with the IBS-DBR:

http://ibs-tech.ch/e...batt-relay.html

I added a switch for the link so I could (in theory, not tested) trickle charge my truck battery if it was discharged and that way start my truck after some time.

I do not have a trimetric or similar monitoring tool but it seems that my house batteries are not charging much from the alternator (Toyota Tundra 2011 with factory tow package 150 amp alternator amd FWC installed wiring to the camper).

 

Question: would replacing the IBS-DBR with the Blue Sea ACR provide any benefits beside the manual control switch?

Edited by Herve, 20 March 2018 - 07:05 AM.

[ckent323]

Herve,

 

I looked at a couple of the IBS manuals (IBS-DBS and IBS-DBM).  I do not see any "smart charging" multi-stage battery charging information for these units (maybe I overlooked it?) and I see no way to detect or set the charging voltage needed for FLA vs AGM vs Gel (voltage sensing).

 

Based on that it appears to me that these devices assume both batteries are the same type and perhaps assumes they are FLA.

 

If that is true then I would not want to use these with anything other than FLA batteries and even then I would worry about proper charging of the batteries, particularly if the camper (Caravan) battery bank is deep cycle.

 

The Blue Sea ML-ACR  does voltage sensing and can be configured for FLA, AGM or Gel batteries but both batteries must be the same type.

 

It seems to me that it would be appropriate to contact the manufacturer and ask if the IBS-DBR provides multi-stage charging and if the stage voltages are automatically set when a particular battery type is sensed of if the user can select or program the battery type to facilitate the charging stage profile required by the different battery types.

 

It would also be useful to know if both batteries must be the same type (chemistry) or if they can be of different chemistry.

 

Craig

 

.

Edited by ckent323, 20 March 2018 - 11:24 AM.

[Advmoto18]

 

 

It would also be useful to know if both batteries must be the same type (chemistry) or if they can be of different chemistry.

 

Craig

 

.

 

Craig...

 

Go to the Blue Sea Support page, type in the question..."does 7622 support multiple battery types".

 

This is the reply...

 

While the 7622 is not the P-12, I asked the question specific to the 7622.  Awaiting an answer from Blue Sea.  I will post here once I have a reply.

 

Yet, I have 2x flooded 12V crank batteries in my Super Duty and 2x Optima AGMs in the camper and no issues using the 7622 for about a year or so.