308 replies to this topic

[ckent323]

We are in Medford, OR this evening after a trip up hwy 1 and we have internet access for the first time in days.

 

 Truck to camper wiring is working.  Turns out the truck already had a Sure Power 1202 battery separator wiring to the trailer plug. Unfortunately I only seem to be getting about 6 A through it not sure why  yet.

 

Good enough for now but probably will go to 6 ga wire and an ML-ACR after we get back home in September.  Solar and the Victron equipment has been working great!.

 

We tried running the Norcold fridge on propane while underway but the flame blew out at freeway speed and the fridge started warming so we use the 12v DC mode anytime we will be driving over about 30 MPH.  Below 30 MPH the propane seems to stay lit.

Edited by ckent323, 15 August 2017 - 05:05 AM.

[cwdtmmrs]

Vic. I upgraded to #4 marine wire for $1.62 ft from Best Boat Wire. I left the original # 10 wire in place as well. Even had them do most of the crimps. Well under $75. I do not have a ACR or any way to even monitor my house battery. I am connected to my truck with just a 100 amp constant duty solenoid triggered by the accessory circuit on the ignition switch. My alternator puts out 60 amps @idle. I used to run my 3-way on propane while traveling, but it actually works better on DC. I like the KISS principle.

 

cwd

Edited by cwdtmmrs, 15 August 2017 - 05:11 AM.

[Vic Harder]

Vic. I upgraded to #4 marine wire for $1.62 ft from Best Boat Wire. I left the original # 10 wire in place as well. Even had them do most of the crimps. Well under $75. I do not have a ACR or any way to even monitor my house battery. I am connected to my truck with just a 100 amp constant duty solenoid triggered by the accessory circuit on the ignition switch. My alternator puts out 60 amps @idle. I used to run my 3-way on propane while traveling, but it actually works better on DC. I like the KISS principle.

 

cwd

That would work too.  I'm using #2 wire, 30' x2 plus #4 wire for numerous smaller & shorter connections.  Overkill, I know.  My alternator also puts out a lot of juice at idle.  I have seen 70+ Amps charging the batteries when they were at 80%.  Nice to know that is well within the fuse (100A) and wire rating.

 

Plus it all well in conjunction with the PV array on the roof.  

 

Monitoring tools are fun, illuminating and informative.  I find it best not KISS unless you are making out    .  KISSing in the dark with expensive batteries is no fun.  

[cwdtmmrs]

Vic, I get what your are saying and some people live life by the info they can get on their smart phone. I am just addressing that a10-11 amp draw from a 3-way fridge on DC when traveling isn't/shouldn't be a concern.

 

cwd

 

BTW. My battery is a 9 year Optima yellow top that still load checked fine when I had the camper off in February. That is all the info I need.

[Esus]

10-11+ amps is what 3-ways draw on DC, but you only run them on DC when traveling, so its a moot issue if your truck's alternator and wiring is good.

 

cwd

 

I guess my point is that by the time your done adding thick wires, maybe a VSR, etc the cost is somewhat substantial and with that much solar already in place getting a two way compressor fridge replacement is a somewhat cost effective, simple solution in comparison. Plus you don't waste additional propane in the future. 

[Vic Harder]

Vic, I get what your are saying and some people live life by the info they can get on their smart phone. I am just addressing that a10-11 amp draw from a 3-way fridge on DC when traveling isn't/shouldn't be a concern.

 

cwd

 

BTW. My battery is a 9 year Optima yellow top that still load checked fine when I had the camper off in February. That is all the info I need.

 

"It works" is pretty good proof of the design.  And 9 years from a battery is excellent performance indeed.  Congrats on having your way work for you!

 

I'm hoping that this thread and discussions like it can inform others about what works and why.  From the research I did before my build, and now after 30+ days of usage, I think I can conclude that I over built my camper.  That's great, but also more expensive than necessary.

 

Conclusions:

 

1) If you drive your truck/camper every (other) day you might be able to get away with no solar at all.  Your batteries may not get the tender love and care they need from a controller that delivers the ideal voltages and currents at the perfect time, so battery life may degrade, but with properly setup ACR/VSR that (dis)connects the camper and truck batteries, and a thick enough wire (2g in my case) the alternator should be able to keep your batteries charged (at least as far as the "Bulk" stage, or around 80%). 

 

Adding something like a CTEK unit in the mix should improve your charging even more.

 

2) If you don't want to upgrade the skinny wires from your truck to the camper, you can get fully (and properly) charged with an adequate solar panel array and nothing else.  The Victron or Trimetric units popular on this forum are very capable of being finely configured to meet the needs of your specific batteries, and should give them a great chance at a long life.  

[Esus]

Conclusions:

 

1) If you drive your truck/camper every (other) day you might be able to get away with no solar at all.  Your batteries may not get the tender love and care they need from a controller that delivers the ideal voltages and currents at the perfect time, so battery life may degrade, but with properly setup ACR/VSR that (dis)connects the camper and truck batteries, and a thick enough wire (2g in my case) the alternator should be able to keep your batteries charged (at least as far as the "Bulk" stage, or around 80%). 

 

Adding something like a CTEK unit in the mix should improve your charging even more.

 

2) If you don't want to upgrade the skinny wires from your truck to the camper, you can get fully (and properly) charged with an adequate solar panel array and nothing else.  The Victron or Trimetric units popular on this forum are very capable of being finely configured to meet the needs of your specific batteries, and should give them a great chance at a long life.  

 

+1

[ckent323]

Vic,Rando, ESUS, ntqsd,

 

At this juncture what would you do differently relative to Solar and truck to camper battery charging (for hose of us with house batteries).

 

Regards,

 

Craig

 

 

P.S. Still on the road - North of Bend heading for Idaho following a few days in Umatilla Natl Forest.  Yeah we hope to see the eclipse.  Even the no reservation first come first served campgrounds will be probably full by today after that - dispersed camping.  ;-)

Edited by ckent323, 16 August 2017 - 05:36 PM.

[rando]

I wouldn't do much differently at all.    The only thing I have changed since my initial install was to replace my 160W rigid panel with two 120W flexible panels, primarily to decrease the weight on the roof.   The battery, charge controller, monitor, blue tooth dongle etc have all been working flawlessly.   I did also build a 120W portable panel, but so far I have only used it once, so I am not sure ti is worth carrying. 

[Esus]

Honestly, this being my second rig/setup, I knew exactly what I wanted and wouldn't change a thing. I'm in Vic's second group of people. I park and don't want to drive to recharge for days and days at a time when I'm at climbing areas. I want to just sit there, camp, climb, etc. For me, I want solar to do the entire job. I also didn't want it to weigh a ton as I'm in a mid sized truck at near its payload capacity, so flexible light weight panels and a LiFePO4 battery were the icing on the cake. 

 

Have fun watching the eclipse Craig! I'm heading to Wyoming with my rig. I'm guessing it will be a madhouse everywhere. Glad I can camp anywhere I can park!

 

Cheers

Edited by Esus, 16 August 2017 - 08:41 PM.