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I need more power Scotty!


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#291 ntsqd

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Posted 24 July 2023 - 12:40 PM

If it is getting that hot then adding stand-offs will reduce any potential for fire. So would adding a preferably aluminum sheet between it and the wall. I suggest aluminum instead of steel for it's very high thermal conductance. Doing both is probably overkill, but can't hurt.

 

I used a Klixon thermal switch for the computer style 80mm box fans in our first camper's 3-way fridge's vent:

https://www.amazon.c.../dp/B000PY7T7I/

I had little manual control over the switch, the fans would run when needed if the fridge was turned on.


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Thom

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#292 Vic Harder

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Posted 25 July 2023 - 05:29 PM

I use a thermal switch too, just stuck it between the cooling fins. The fan I used puts out 70cfm, and is NOISY when running,
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#293 ntsqd

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Posted 25 July 2023 - 05:53 PM

I put the switch next to the fans figuring that they would be running pretty much anytime the fridge was cycling anyway. For a DC-DC converter getting the switch in contact sounds like the better idea.

 

I didn't think of them as noisy, just that they had very effective Auditory Indicators of when they were running.

;)


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Thom

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#294 Jollyrogers

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Posted 27 July 2023 - 02:36 PM

OK. Added an aluminum sheet between bulkhead and charger and have a 50mm cooling fan wired to the input circuit breaker and ground bus bar. I have breakers on all sides of the charger and only close them if I am going to charge from truck. It just gets warm now when in bulk, so it seems to not need much airflow to increase the convection of that big heat sync.
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#295 Wallowa

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Posted 27 July 2023 - 02:52 PM

Educate me...I also have a DC/DC and have never noticed the heat generated [enclosed in battery box]...perhaps it is getting hot?

 

So, what are the negative consequences of the charger getting hot?  And not using a cooling fan?  Installer never mentioned this as an issue....

 

Thanks...


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#296 ntsqd

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Posted 27 July 2023 - 04:33 PM

Too hot and it lets the Magic Smoke out. Not quite that hot diminishes it's efficiency, perhaps severely.

 

I'd get a temperature reading before getting too concerned. Even if that's a simple "Nope, too hot to touch" sampling.


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Thom

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#297 Vic Harder

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Posted 27 July 2023 - 06:08 PM

When hot it self-regulates. That means is shuts down or does less charging to avoid overheating.
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#298 Wallowa

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Posted 27 July 2023 - 06:17 PM

When hot it self-regulates. That means is shuts down or does less charging to avoid overheating.

  Thanks Vic....so if the performance from my DC/DC is what I need and expect, "overheating' is a non-issue for me as it self-regulates the temps..  '"no contact/no foul".

 

Thanks...


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#299 Jollyrogers

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Posted 27 July 2023 - 06:55 PM

Educate me...I also have a DC/DC and have never noticed the heat generated [enclosed in battery box]...perhaps it is getting hot?

So, what are the negative consequences of the charger getting hot? And not using a cooling fan? Installer never mentioned this as an issue....

Thanks...

Drain your battery to say 50-60% SOC. Start your truck and connect your DC2DC charger. Monitor you charger in the battery box or wherever it’s mounted while it is in bulk charge. Is it pushing 28-30amp? Is it getting hot? Mine was, to the point it was throttling and scary hot. So I added an aluminum plate between the charger and mounting location, and an active fan. It made a significant difference from what I have observed.

I tend to light off fridge on shore power before I leave, and switch to truck when I leave. The load on the charger is very low then, and it doesn’t get hot. It’s when I camped a day or 2, then drove somewhere, it would go into bulk charge and get stupid hot and start throttling.

Edited by Jollyrogers, 27 July 2023 - 07:01 PM.

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#300 Wallowa

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Posted 27 July 2023 - 08:17 PM

Drain your battery to say 50-60% SOC. Start your truck and connect your DC2DC charger. Monitor you charger in the battery box or wherever it’s mounted while it is in bulk charge. Is it pushing 28-30amp? Is it getting hot? Mine was, to the point it was throttling and scary hot. So I added an aluminum plate between the charger and mounting location, and an active fan. It made a significant difference from what I have observed.

I tend to light off fridge on shore power before I leave, and switch to truck when I leave. The load on the charger is very low then, and it doesn’t get hot. It’s when I camped a day or 2, then drove somewhere, it would go into bulk charge and get stupid hot and start throttling.

 

 

Ha, with my 100aH BB the lowest I have drawn it down is about 80%; even with multi days my 330 w solar is always keeping BB charged above that [snow days are an exception and then DC/DC is golden]...but I get the point....how much load for how long is the deciding combo...what I don't grasp is how much less is the output of the DC/DC when "hot" [subjective] and how long does that take at max amp output to get 'hot'; ambient temp is also I assume a factor...on start-up I routinely see well above 30 amps until it basically shuts down even when I am still running the Tundra and battery is above threshold to initiate the DC/DC....what do you mean by "start throttling"; DC/DC output dropping?  

 

For me I guess unless the temp of charger is way out of range and I don't know it, my DC/DC only slightly augments my charging needs and the temp may be irrelevant for my usage..

 

Thanks for info..food for thought.


Edited by Wallowa, 27 July 2023 - 08:19 PM.

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